My first project car "Ellie"

[Slybeanx]

Some small updates:

I got some brass emblems in Motorsport colors.

my alignment was pretty far off on my passanger side, about -3 degrees. I think this is due to the guy not knowing how to use camber plates. I’ll fiddle with it myself and go back for free thankfully.

finally I’ve just been driving around on my new Koni struts. I love them, exactly what I’m looking for.

i also snapped an M30 rocker arm so the swap will be held off for a bit longer.

[Slybeanx]

Just purchased another project as a possible winter truck or semi restoration/ flip because I can’t find any work in my field over the summer.

I’ll see how much I like it. Needs a new exhaust, has surface rust everywhere, new tires and has sat for 15 years with 43k original miles.
possible future LS swap candidate.

[Slybeanx]

First time every welding something. Turned out okay. Should work perfectly for the application. Using a flux core welder, plan on trying to fix my battery tray rust with it. We’ll see how it turns out.

new door seals are in, non-OEM and they are.... okay for the money. Not too unhappy but I’m also in discussions with people to start making OEM seals. May start a group buy if I can get the price figured out.

[Slybeanx]

All tuned and ready for the streets. Megasquirt is up and running!

[Slybeanx]

Got a tad bit of work done on the car. The new seals for the pop outs had some sort of adhesive in them?? It squirted out when I put them on and once installed they are on there pretty good. Others have reported no adhesive in their seals so I’m confused as to why mine had something.

I installed an oil pan guard, figured I was going to swap over to an M30s pan but I can’t tell the difference besides the hole for the oil? If so I’ll just keep mine and take it off for oil changes. NBD.

there is some gaps in my pop outs and windows- Ed assured me that it wasn’t an issue but it still worries me. I tend to hate rust but maybe it’ll be okay. I’m going to just keep an eye on it for now.

got the fender mounted “to mock it up”, and will be moving forward with paint once finals are over.
it takes forever to get the panel smooth with bondo, there were maybe 2-3 dimples and one dent I tried to fill in and it took 2 rounds of sanding to get it to within acceptable margins. A final round of bondo and sanding to get it to where I’m satisfied with it, I think it’s good enough for paint after a final round of primer and sanding.

my rear bumper which was hit is totally lifted in the back corner and I can’t see how I would make it flat without sanding off 50% of the material. I’ve sanded the crease out and proceeded to make it even. After a shot of primer I cant tell easily that it’s been hit.

if it doesn’t turn out satisfactory I’ll be buying new.

[Slybeanx]

I have removed the rear windows, and my rear pop out gaskets finally arrived! Brand new rubber decided to splurge (jk I didn’t have any) on the seals. They are special order from ECS/Pelican/FCP and autohauz. Supposedly only a few sets left according to the person I chatted with.

I liked the shadowline trim so I removed mine and have painted them black. VHT paint because they are supposedly chemically resistant so I hope that helps for long term. I didn’t think I could powder coat them otherwise I would’ve. Heated with a heat gun to reach the 200 degree temp for a few mins.
one side was easily removed but the passenger side was damn near impossible. I bent the thing and had to bens it back on. Used some adhesive as reassurance it would stay as I’ve heard they can sometimes fly off.

i removed and painted the back section as well and it was also a PITA and I broke another tab. JB weld is becoming a theme at this point.

I painted the valve cover and intake of my M30 in VHT caliper paint and cured it some with a heat gun. I figure itll also finish when its in the car and up to temp. It doesn't lay on very thick and scratches easily so I may try something else next time.

Unfortunately when I went to reinstall the pop outs I over tightened a stud and it snapped clean off. I don’t understand how I keep braking things but I do. So I’m waiting for JB weld to cure and then I’ll see if that holds.

in the mean time I’ve started installing my M20 oil pan guard, and taking apart the rear calipers to replace with remanufactured ones.

I really want to drop my subframe and replace all my brake lines and do new bushings, but I think I will wait until I get an alignment to decide if I get normal subframe bushings or subframe risers.

I’ve ordered a paint booth from Eastwood as well as a filter kit for painting. I’ll try to post a pic of my setup, I’ve been following other threads for tips on setups.

hopefully when it’s all put back together it’ll be worth the effort.

[Slybeanx]

Added some minor interior bits. Cant seem to decide what way I want to take this build. Currently stripping the hood, fender and rear bumper for paint. Going to be doing all the work myself, ive never painted a car before but my dad has.

Was also offered a free datsun truck from my uncle, considering picking it up or maybe a local beetle/C10 for a daily driver. Will def need a car if I remain in the Maryland area for the summer.

Build is coming along slowly, and if I get another car it might have to stop for a while.

[Slybeanx]

Slapped together a cold air intake. High temp paint and tape (to cover the sharp edges) and then aluminum to cover the filter. I have no idea how well it’ll work but it’s sealed off from the radiator and only has an opening from the headlights and about 5-6 inches behind it from the back.

[Slybeanx]

Messed around at Home Depot and now I have a wood trunk. Can still easily access the non-existent spare.

[Slybeanx]

So I’m back home with the car, my law school has swapped to pass/fail due to COVID19 which is horrible for my summer job opportunities, but does give me much more free time to work on my car.
so far I’ve ordered pipping for the intake, as I can’t weld and need some ways to mock up how I’m going to get the ICV and GM IAT fit into it.

i bought a SPAL 16 1700CFM fan, thought I would get it all situated before I do my M30 swap. Havnt seen it turn on yet but seems like everything went in easily enough. I’ve slowly been working away on the brake lines, rotors and pads to get the whole car feeling new.

ive been degreasing and painting the M30 as well as installing rocker locks on the head, which has been a straight PITA to twist them off.

i think Walmart might still be open so next Monday I’ll be mounting my wheels. Hopefully my other set sells soon as i could really use the money to help fund the rest of the build.

finally I’m looking to pick up some paint from where I’m williams - a quart of base, clear and Hardener was quoted around 130$ after tax. That seems like a solid deal to me as opposed to other online stores.

ive been deciding on if i should sell or install my pop out windows as well as my husco cup holder because while i do like how they look i just really don’t see me ever using them.

[Slybeanx]

Some new hardware for the M30- intake and exhaust bolts and studs, thermostat and housing, and then finally got a new historic plate.

[Slybeanx]

Buying some new parts during corona outbreak and dad replaces rear lights w LEDs (wanted to see what the change was like from stock on an inconspicuous location). And then yet again some rust repair

[Slybeanx]

Buying some new parts during corona outbreak and dad replaces rear lights w LEDs (wanted to see what the change was like from stock on an inconspicuous location). And then yet again some rust repair

[Slybeanx]

The motor mounts came in finally from the Uk. 230$ shipped I think from E28goodies. I trusted these more than the garagistic ones. Look good so far! (Powder coating was free)

[Slybeanx]

Interior looks okay, kilmat makes everything much quieter. Idk why the older threads say stock is best, the new alpines and kickers + sub and all the kilmat I put in make a much better cabin.

I like it but the subs a little quiet behind the seats. I’m thinking of taking a knife and cutting the foam seats where the hole is and then folding and sewing the back seats apart at the ski hole so that it’s open.