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A semi restoration (sans paint) of my '87 325i convertible

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    #16
    Nice dude! What gauge steel did you use with the stock floor panels? I'm in a similar situation and the flux welder is fine in my opinion. Sometimes hard to avoid but through on the stock panels, but just fine for floors I've thought so far.

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      #17
      Originally posted by jeenyus View Post
      Nice dude! What gauge steel did you use with the stock floor panels? I'm in a similar situation and the flux welder is fine in my opinion. Sometimes hard to avoid but through on the stock panels, but just fine for floors I've thought so far.
      It was 18ga. cold rolled sheet which worked pretty nicely, still thin enough to beat around and shape by hand (no brakes or English wheels here!). We believe 18ga. is the original thickness for the floors and skins, anyway. Doing it with flux definitely takes practice, and burn through is a problem in thinner areas, but for the purposes of not spending a few hundred on a gas rig and worrying about renting/buying gas bottles/blowing up the garage, it can be dealt with. Just take your time, work through it, and clean the welds really well with a wire wheel afterward. Lap joints seem to be much less apt to burn through, but then a weld-through primer must be used. Most of the welds here are butt welds, aside from The Colossus™ (huge passenger firewall patch). The battery tray welds also had to be plug welded down to the skeleton below it as well. A copper backing plate is also a good thing to have on hand for burn through. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
      (OO=[][]=OO) For Life

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        #18
        I am shocked that this was done with a flux core welder. I already thought you did a good job before. But now with this new information, you deserve major props.
        How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611


        Could be better, could be worse.

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          #19
          New handbrake cables, handbrake pads & hardware, rear wheel bearings, and trailing arm brake lines. My backing pads were still good.
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          New clips that hold the handbrakes to the trailing arms. One of mine was broken so I replaced them both. Also new sway bar bushings and end links
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          This is the tool I made to remove the trailing arm bushings. It's a length of 7/16 rod cut to length and oiled up with a series of nuts and washers and a 13mm socket to drive the old bushing out and into the 4" length of pipe with a notch cut out. It worked great and cost around $10. I put the new ones in with my bench vise, which was an endeavor in itself. Protip: periodically lubricate the threaded rod inside the vise.
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          Annnnnnnnd now that the rear suspension was resolved I finally pushed the car outside for the first time in 6 months
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          Last edited by Das Delfin; 10-09-2019, 11:10 AM.


          it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

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            #20
            None of your pictures are working.
            How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611


            Could be better, could be worse.

            Comment


              #21
              I replaced all the fuel hoses in the car and when I'd replaced the 12x18 one along the top of the tank that connects the low pressure fuel pump to the high pressure one, I ended up with a kink. This was the hose spec'd by realoem so I snapped a pic and went to find my old hose to compare. I took this pic before I massaged most of the kink out and posted it to r3v facebook hoping for an immediate answer.
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              and of course was treated to nothing but kindhearted and helpful responses by some of the friendliest people I could ask for. But at least I got my answer. This is a hose that realoem says correct for early 318i's and M3's. I bought one and when it came in was a dead match to my old hose. So if you're wondering, 16121178823 is the hose you want if you have a dual fuel pump system. I used oetiker clamps on everything save for the connections for the fuel filter, because that is supposed to be serviced more often than anything else.
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              I used the rest of my insulation on the floors
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              And then painted and installed my carpet. I don't have any pics of painting, but I vacuumed and cleaned it with a carpet cleaner, laid it on the garage floor on top of a giant ass box, and used the Duplicolor vinyl & fabric paint, followed the directions on the can, and it came out great. I used 5 cans in total, which turned out to be 6 or 7 total coats in alternating directions to get a uniform look. Original spec for my cardinal interior was dark gray but I bought black because it's BLACK and covers better. I let the carpet cure for a few days before putting it in the car. After the fourth day or so the paint smell had been repalced by the old bmw smell so we were good to go.
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              it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

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                #22
                Originally posted by rzerob View Post
                None of your pictures are working.
                Try it now. The new forum doesn't treat pics the same way as the old one and I'm trying to get a uniform look. It's being difficult.


                it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Das Delfin View Post

                  Try it now. The new forum doesn't treat pics the same way as the old one and I'm trying to get a uniform look. It's being difficult.
                  They are working now.
                  How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611


                  Could be better, could be worse.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Hey this build is cool and all but I think what your car really needs is the fiberglass body kit I have in my shed Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
                    (OO=[][]=OO) For Life

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