My Update! (cable/dsl only)

[So Live]

[PiercedE30]

I'm not saying.....


hehehehe

[So Live]

Hmm this is very true. ITB's?

[PiercedE30]

Nope. Can't run twin screw with 11.7:1, without race gas. It's a little more.....complicated......compared to the normal manifold, in a matter of speaking.

[So Live]

Ohhhhhh snap, i smell twin screw? The only reason id think of that youd be replacing the manifold :)

[PiercedE30]

I've got the regular TMS Shorty headers. The front ones are a bitch. They point right at the subframe. I am actually planning on cutting the flanges off of both headers and putting V-bands in place of them when I completely redo my exhaust using SS. I am going to extend the headers so they curve more towards the firewall and have them come back behind the subframe and then have the V-bands connect to the rest of the exhaust.
About the shims. Yes, I still have both sides shimmed a 1/4 inch and the booster rubs on the intake manifold. I have a plan for that though. Once I am able to pick up a daily here in the next few weeks I am going to pull the manifold off and replace it with something, a little more fun. ;)

[Black_E30]

TMS Shorty Headers with ix booster ; any clearance left?

Hey Pierced, great thread!

A long while back you posted that you'd have to shim some to get the headers to clear. Were you successful or did you have to BFH the car a bit, and/or does any part still rub?

Are you using 1/4" mount shims on each side as stated in your 325ix booster posts?

Also did you get the "e30/M50 swap" shorty headers or the regular ones?

Cheers.

[dude8383]

Damn that white Integra was LOUD!!

[So Live]

Hahaha that looks like a shit ton of fun dude. Sweet!

[PiercedE30]

That's all I can find for now. If anything else get's posted, I will post it up here. I really hope that somebody got a decent picture of my launching so I can see what my rear end was doing.

[PiercedE30]

It's not bad. With the Spec PP it would shudder a LOT. But with the stock M3 PP, it might shudder once every 10 times I let out the clutch from a stop, slowly.

OK, about last night. HOLY shit was that fun. No tree, no scoreboard, no times, straight heads up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FglXonU_TiU

I left my suspension alone this time and didn't change out my springs or anything. I did throw the 4.10 back in. I was a little surprised to see that cruising I was using less throttle to maintain speed than I was with the 3.25. I did have my BFG DR's on and dropped my tire pressures down to 16/17 PSI (hot) and was able to launch at 3500 with almost no wheel hop. I ran a buddy of mine, Zach, in his turbo MR2. On low boost (12 psi) I was definitely able to stay out in front of him. I think he said that I beat him by 1 1/2 cars. The second time that we ran he had to turn it up to high boost (20 psi) and even then he was barely able to walk past me after the 1/8 mile marker. It was a lot of fun.

[So Live]

Right on dude. I hear bad things about the spec PP's but not the disks. I think Donovan (bmwsob) had a problem with em too...

Im running a e36m3 clutch kit. Im hoping itll be good enough to hold my low boost goals for now. I think im gonna end up getting the disk you have. How do you like it driving around town and stuff?

[PiercedE30]

I've still got the Spec 6 puck clutch disk, haven't found anything about it being bad, just the PP. I wasn't able to get a 618 through my work, well I was, but it would have taken a long time since it would be special order, so I cheaped out and got an M3 pressure plate. I figure if some of the 2.5L S14 guys can use the stock plate, then I should give it a shot. If it breaks again, I'm going to go Southbend and get a custom clutch made to hold about 500-650 ft/lbs so that if/when I tear down this motor I will be able to throw a turbo on and not need a different clutch.

[So Live]

Wow, thats pretty impressive dude. Im scared of mig + aluminum. Actually im scared of welding aluminum period.

So whats your clutch set up as it runs now?

[PiercedE30]

Actually, I did weld up the bell housing. I ended up counting 7 cracks (the big one and a number of other small ones that were barely noticeable) and the one hole. This was my first time welding aluminum. There is a VERY fine line between having too much heat, too little heat, not enough wire speed, and too much wire speed. It's a little tricky to weld, to say the least, so my welds definitely do not look good. I did go over them with a carbide burr bit to smooth them out.

Outside of the bell housing on the big crack:


Inside the bell housing on the big crack (you can also see the inside of the hole I had to fill):


Here is a picture of three of the small cracks that I welded over:

You can see two of them underneath the vin sticker on the bottom left side. You can also see one next to the bolt hole underneath the "Getrag" embossing.

I definitely need some practice with the spool gun to actually get the hang of it. You can see the difference in the way the aluminum welds, due to the retained heat, after you put down the first pass. You also have to have the aluminum as clean as possible. There can be NO oxidation on the aluminum due to the amount of heat it takes to melt the oxidation. The oxidation melts at like 3300 degrees and the aluminum melts at like 1200. If you have oxidation where you are trying to weld, it will "blow through" real easily due to the amount of heat that is going into the metal. (enough of the welding talk)