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What did you do to your E30 today?
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Originally posted by 10-66kruk View PostIs this the chase bays booster delete?
I keep running this idea in my head just don't know that its worth it. it does clean up the bay, put if the fuse box is relocated into the car bay looks pretty sick.
More importantly the CB kit just lets you live with a firmer pedal with no changes.
The Massive kit includes parts and instructions on changing the leverage point on the pedal for easing up on the pedal effort a bit.
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Originally posted by Teaguer View PostIts from Massive. I've noticed the Chase Bays as well but Lee's kit beats it hands down on the build quality and attention to detail.
More importantly the CB kit just lets you live with a firmer pedal with no changes.
The Massive kit includes parts and instructions on changing the leverage point on the pedal for easing up on the pedal effort a bit.
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So I painted my car white... yes Spray Paint. The hood is chalkboard paint. Oh and today I put an angle on my exhaust. Love it or hate it, it's my car.
I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.
Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com
Delta Auto Care
2875-C Towerview Road
Herndon, VA
703.435.1375
My Feedback Thread: Evil_Twin
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Originally posted by devon.818 View Postwhats the benefit?Originally posted by Janderson View PostSo this just converts you to non-power assisted brakes? Interesting. What's the advantage?
Not only is it an awesomely machined block off plate and area to mount the master but it also includes other parts and instructions to modify the pedal to get back some mechanical advantage and make the effort not as much as it could be.
I'll be fine with effort as I've run bigger 25mm mc's for years and prefer a harder pedal.
Also since I'm running a 4-piston BBK with lots more piston area requiring more fluid to be moved it will be less effort than a stock caliper.
Going to a smaller mc will decrease the effort but will increase the travel.
At this point i've got 2 smaller stock e30 mc's to choose from.
Advantage for me is it opens up all kinds of room for intake clearance on different engine swaps.
Regular 24v's will be cake as well as euro 24v's and s54's.
I'm thinking ahead and really just getting things lined up for an LS1 down the road which will also now clear with ease.
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I installed the full GC kit,swapped out a bad tie rod,tried to fix the non working tach by soldiering leads to a remote battery holder-tach still no worky.Glued new clips to the drivers door card where they'd pulled though,be able to reinstall tomorrow.
Stuck the wheels back on with the new 205-50-16 yoko S-drives,put it on the ground and drove it outside for a bath.It's back inside now,I have to change the resistor for the blower,remove the drivers seat and see why the suckers up high and won't adjust.
A few little things and then it goes in for its safety inspection and I get to finally drive it.
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Wrapped my trans tunnel in 2 layers deep of Peel & Seal, it's a foil-backed adhesive asphalt material (actually used for roofing patches, but nearly identical to Dynamat). The existing sound/heat padding on my firewall and in the trans tunnel was rotted and falling apart, so I ripped it all out, and used this material on the trans tunnel inside the car under the carpet to reduce heat transfer through the floor.
I've been told that hot rod and MG guys have been using it for years with great results, and it was $11 for a 25' x 6" roll.
Originally posted by Teaguer View PostYes this helps you convert to manual or non-assisted braking.
Not only is it an awesomely machined block off plate and area to mount the master but it also includes other parts and instructions to modify the pedal to get back some mechanical advantage and make the effort not as much as it could be.
I'll be fine with effort as I've run bigger 25mm mc's for years and prefer a harder pedal.
Also since I'm running a 4-piston BBK with lots more piston area requiring more fluid to be moved it will be less effort than a stock caliper.
Going to a smaller mc will decrease the effort but will increase the travel.
At this point i've got 2 smaller stock e30 mc's to choose from.
Advantage for me is it opens up all kinds of room for intake clearance on different engine swaps.
Regular 24v's will be cake as well as euro 24v's and s54's.
I'm thinking ahead and really just getting things lined up for an LS1 down the road which will also now clear with ease.Last edited by Jand3rson; 04-03-2011, 06:16 PM.
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Originally posted by Janderson View PostThis intrigues me. Obviously I'm not going to do it any time soon, but it's always nice to have options to consider in the future.
Now I may skip any BMW powerplant altogether and just go with the v8.
So I've done things like delete the booster and power steering so it just makes it easier to go that route.
Also about order the driveshaft coupler that lets you run domestic u-joint driveshaft mated to BMW medium case diff.
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Originally posted by Teaguer View PostAlso about order the driveshaft coupler that lets you run domestic u-joint driveshaft mated to BMW medium case diff.
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Originally posted by Janderson View PostNow THAT is very intriguing. What is this part you speak of, and will it let you mate said driveshaft up to a 3.73 (unsure of case size, came from another E30)?
Good shit to have down the road for sure.
Yeah all of our e30's, except lowly 318's, share the BMW medium case diff that most other BMW's have as well.
Only the bigger 7-series and up and bigger cars have the large case diff.
Basically any diff you've ever heard of being run in an e30, whether its from an e28, e24 or even e36, will be able to bolt up to a domestic style common replaceable u-joint with whatever custom driveshaft you want with this said input flange adapter.
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