And it begins...
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The real early ETAs had a cold start or idle valve mounted off there. My 87 doesn't have those and the 85 block I built my stroker motor with didn't either. -
A stupid question, I'm not familiar with U.s. spec engines or with ETA anyway. What are the long studs on the lef side of the engine for?
I mean the ones on flat surface between timing belt area and the plug for the angle ger for the oilpump.Leave a comment:
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Now... would an 85e bottom end work with e85? hmz?! Cool build anderson, good luck!
JulienLeave a comment:
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Wow, holy off-topic batman.
Rather then guess at what works and gives what compression ratios, why not collect the parts you were planning on, then calculate the compression ratio based off of measurements of the parts. Then you can calculate how much needs to be taken off the head/block to get the desired compression ratio.
Seems stupid to just go with what someone else did and said worked on the internet without looking into it a bit more.Leave a comment:
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Together, we can disrupt the trajectory of the literacy crisis and open the door to opportunity for every child.
Well, if you had an ability to read, my post was comparing a 8.5:1 CR 2.7i and a stock 2.5i. That's why I said the B25 could still be best for the track... but i guess you didn't understand that and wanted to use a completely irrelevant analogy. All those cc's won't do you as much good on the track where you'd stay above 4000 rpm most of the day, and you're missing out on the positive aspects of a 325i at the track. A low-CR stroker is only good if you are using it for its positive low-end torque quality and flatter curve... or turbocharging it.Last edited by rwh11385; 05-21-2008, 08:05 AM.Leave a comment:
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I don't know what happened to my post, but it never mentioned CR.
All I said is that more displacement helps everywhere in the rev range, not just in producing low end torque. Engines are air pumps, more displacement means they can physically move more air.Leave a comment:
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the same or less as an I engine really - torque probably comes sooner, but if the I motor is in good shape I would just put it in as it stands.Leave a comment:
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lowering CR with longer duration cam is the opposite of what you want. bump CR, and fix the cam timing with an offset pin if you need, and then you can make good use of a 284/272 or whatever cam. otherwise, don't waste your time with an aftermarket cam
Sean ended up pussing out for only .015" decked
As you know, Jordan's 2.8 did well on the dyno, and he used 9.5:1 CR pistons, but those cost $900+.
Strokers made with super eta pistons are the way to go on a budget
Metric Mechanics sell the cam offset pin.that dyno graph should have helped to make my point about the concern of CR, if not... then just go with 8.5:1 and mediocre performance, and no matter how much you dump on bolt-ons, it won't make up for the small bit of $ to get the block decked...You don't need an adjustable cam gear. Just a offset cam gear pin. The pin locates the cam gear to a fixed spot on the cam end. Their website sucks, just call them.
Edit: I think what you want is the "dowel pin, offset" not sure tho.Leave a comment:
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Where'd z31 post go? More cc's and lower CR doesn't = badass engine.
This shows quite well why you should worry about compression ratio... and how a 2.5i could be better than a 8.5 C/R 2.7i:

The red is 2.8l 8.5:1 pistons with 19lb/hr injectors, stock engine management (8.0 C/R after larger head gasket I believe though)
those at equal to or below 2.5i numbers. the torque curve is flatter and better down low, but the top looks pretty much the same where you'd be using it. take it to a track and you might very well be behind in performance than a stocker b25 like i ran, especially if combined with a 4.10 to keep it in the sweet spot. you're not focused on putting around town and pulling from 2000 rpm, so the torque won't really help your use.Last edited by rwh11385; 05-20-2008, 07:25 PM.Leave a comment:
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The huge benefit here (at least on my end), is that I already have half of the engine, and it was 100% free. With 20k miles on the crank, block and rods. This is the cornerstone of why I'm doing a 2.7i build. I can always change things later. I see nothing wrong with starting out simple, and doing things in stages later.
So... could we take all this E85 bullshit to another thread, and possibly try to take this thread in a serious direction? I'm getting just as much if not more conflicting information in this thread than all the rest of the stroker build threads. I don't know if it was my fault or not, but I don't know how this thread got so unbelievably fuckered.
Please keep anything regarding M/S50's, E85, or whatever else to another forum/thread/intarweb. I'm not interested. I'm interested in gaining info on my build from those knowledgeable, and nothing more. I"m taking Heeter's advice and staying open to suggestions and advice on the build, and how to do it right. Please keep things on topic, or I'm just going to delete them.Last edited by Jand3rson; 05-20-2008, 05:35 PM.Leave a comment:
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PS I have NEVER seen an E85 filing stations within several hundred miles of my house... so me = no care.Leave a comment:

becuase i have a 89 e30 for parts and it has an engine in good conition.
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