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    Thanks for the constructive criticisms guys :) (not sarcastic)
    Before the block is repainted and everything on it is cleaned, I'm going to take a few bottles of brake cleaner and shoot the whole thing down. That's when the head bolt holes along with most everything else will be cleaned for the final time before painting the block.

    At this point I've done all the dis-assembling I'm going to do. I'm not going to be going any further into the rebuild (not taking the head or block apart piece by piece). So at this point it's a lot of cleaning and re-painting.

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      Originally posted by Farbin Kaiber View Post
      Hey, no problem, I mean, what are we all gonna do with this lil stuff knowledge aside from give it away free on the internet?
      yea i mean it was giving to me by others so i guess its my duty to pass it on... it is what it is

      Need Illustration or Design work? www.robbiebyerly.com

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        Originally posted by Japandrew73 View Post
        Thanks for the constructive criticisms guys :) (not sarcastic)
        Before the block is repainted and everything on it is cleaned, I'm going to take a few bottles of brake cleaner and shoot the whole thing down. That's when the head bolt holes along with most everything else will be cleaned for the final time before painting the block.

        At this point I've done all the dis-assembling I'm going to do. I'm not going to be going any further into the rebuild (not taking the head or block apart piece by piece). So at this point it's a lot of cleaning and re-painting.
        I'm sorry to rain on your parade, and I know you are gonna do what you are gonna do, but, I'd put a new set of rings and crank bearings in there while you have it as torn down as you do. You are gonna replace the oil pan gasket and head gasket at minimum in the future when those things need attention, so why not do it now? I wouldn't expect it to cost you more than $150 at the top end.

        Comment


          Set of rings from autohauzaz was $150 iirc, bearings were another $150 for both sets... Andrew, if you are not going to do those AT LEAST do the timing guides/rails, they are most likely overdue.
          Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



          OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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            Keep in mind everybody the block has roughly 50k on it, it's in good enough condition as is. I'm replacing every gasket (except the timing gasket). It's hard not to get a case of the "while-you're-in-theres" but you have to draw the line somewhere otherwise you'll get into a full rebuild which I'm not going to do. I appreciate the feedback and advice but I'm not taking the timing cover off, when the timing cover comes off it starts to get a lot more difficult.

            And to the dremel comment, nothing but a wire brush and degreaser were used on the piston.

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              I promise I won't laugh when it gets rod knock, or, chain slap months after you wedge it in there, I just won't.

              Comment


                Well, it makes sense to do the front/rear seals right? Your gasket sets come with those I am pretty sure. So, to do the front one the cover needs to come over and there you have your two lower and two upper timing cover gaskets. And access to the timing guides/rails is right there, you don't have to remove the crank or anything to get to those :)

                For reference, you can see the two plastic/metal guides for the main chain and 1 for the oil pump. These parts aren't even expensive, unlike the ones on the M motors ;)




                But if you are 100% sure block was replaced, do you have paperwork on that? I would pull the chain to a side and inspect the timing rails.
                Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                Comment


                  regardless of the age/mileage its smart to replace the piston rings, clean the bores, replace the bearings, chain, gears/cogs if they need it.

                  its cheap insurance...


                  Originally posted by vlad
                  Do you know anybody else who built that many bad ass E30s?

                  Comment


                    50K means it sat and needs fresh gaskets, listen to at least jean, no offense farbin (i agree with you but hes not going to go that deep, i wish i had...) any way, that lower timing cover will leak, if you have the gasket just replace it cause again it WILL leak. also make sure when they machine the head you have the upper cover machined with it.

                    Also replace the guide rails cause its a sad day when they break... they are the weak link and you dont want to risk it fail cause well once the m30 is in... it has to come all the way out for alot of things... like the cap and rotor ;)

                    Need Illustration or Design work? www.robbiebyerly.com

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by RickSloan View Post
                      ....also make sure when they machine the head you have the upper cover machined with it....
                      lol, i always forget to do this


                      Originally posted by vlad
                      Do you know anybody else who built that many bad ass E30s?

                      Comment


                        Only a bit offended.

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by RickSloan View Post
                          50K means it sat and needs fresh gaskets, listen to at least jean, no offense farbin (i agree with you but hes not going to go that deep, i wish i had...) any way, that lower timing cover will leak, if you have the gasket just replace it cause again it WILL leak. also make sure when they machine the head you have the upper cover machined with it.

                          Also replace the guide rails cause its a sad day when they break... they are the weak link and you dont want to risk it fail cause well once the m30 is in... it has to come all the way out for alot of things... like the cap and rotor ;)
                          I think we all agree on this. Andrew, this isn't a "while i'm in there" type thing.

                          Think of it like this; Since you SHOULD take the timing cover off, "while you're in there", you can clean the inside of it up:D
                          turk@gutenparts.com

                          Originally posted by Janderson
                          Properly placed zip ties will hold bridges together.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Japandrew73 View Post
                            So at this point it's a lot of cleaning and re-painting.
                            At least it will look pretty while it is sitting in the garage broken or leaking oil.

                            But seriously, having done my fair share of motor swaps in all kinds of cars over the years I'd DEFINITELY be doing the bearings and rings, or would be following Jean's advice very closely at the bare minimum.

                            There is a clear difference between going all-out with a build and replacing all the reciprocating gear with hi-po stuff that'll make enough horsepower to cause Jupiter to explode, or thoroughly preparing/servicing your motor to ensure you have a reliable, rock-solid powerplant in your performance car that can take a beating.

                            This thread is heading in an interesting direction. There are plenty of guys who've got M30-swapped E30s giving you some good advice Andrew, but even though this is your first swap you seem intent on following some higher power/deity who knows bestest. Good luck with your swap, I have a feeling you'll need it when the cold, fickle fist of fate comes to ram itself repeatedly in your anus, without lubricant and covered in broken glass and sand...


                            ----------------------------------------------------------
                            Just so there are no hard feelings, please tear this section of the post off to reclaim your x1 free man-snuggle.

                            Strawberry kisses,
                            Iain
                            Pork Hunt Motorsport

                            eBay is like the summit racing catalog for today's special Olympics crowd

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Iain View Post
                              you seem intent on following some higher power/deity who knows bestest.
                              You could say that.

                              I think I'm going to end up following Jean's advice about the timing guides and of course gaskets. The upper timing cover is already off so of course those two gaskets are being replaced. If I take the lower timing cover off I will of course replace the two gaskets and the guide rails. I'm at work rigth now so i'll have to take a look at the rails when I get home.

                              Why exactly is it you want me to replace the bearings or rings? This engine doesn't have roughly 50k on it just from original mileage sitting in a garage somewhere. It had an engine fire in 2004. It was repaired the right way, the block was replaced with a new one and the head was rebuilt along with a new engine harness among other things - point is they did a good job repairing it after the engine fire. So this engine has roughly 50k from the time span of 2004-2009. It's been a daily driver so it hasn't sat at all really. It's a very good running engine, I'm pretty much replacing the essentials and getting it to look nice and run reliably to be a fun daily driver. I can understand about the timing guide rails, but why the rods and bearings? This is a pretty young engine.

                              Comment


                                the rods and bears are a minimal concern if the block is indeed as young as you say. and it very wel should be by whats been done. Just do the guide rails and the timing cover gaskets. Its well worth the hour it will take to do trust me! I didnt do it an i cry a little everytime i crawl under my car and see that leak up front. I was in a rush and had to have a motor in the car regarless of where it leaked. And someday i will tak eit out and fix the problem or build another and put that in instead. But thats alot of headache you could avoid with an hour of work.

                                Need Illustration or Design work? www.robbiebyerly.com

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