Anyone familiar with tile work?

[dirty30]

I just tore up the tile in my kitchen, only to find the previous owner had put cement board down over the linoleum that used to be there. I have read once the tile is torn up you have to scrape the old stuff off of the surface you are going to put the new tile down on. How smooth do I have to get the old surface? Is a little leftover mortar ok? Is there any easier way to clean up all the dust this creates other than a shop vac and a gas mask?

[blunttech]

you need to get it clean. its not clear how far down youre going but id tear up the cement board and old linoleum down to the sub floor if you want to do it right. when i did mine i used a sledge and busted up the tile... removed that and then set a circular saw at the correct dept to cut down to, but not into the sub floor. then took it out in chunks and put new plywood down over the sub floor. regardless of what you do you need a clean smooth base if you dont want it to look like jerrys kids installed it.

[Massive Lee]

Hey Blunt. Are your avatar(s) mug shots of your latest victims? I see you are starting to pick them a bit more "legal"... ;)

[White325is]

What kind of tile are you going to be installing?
Pretty much you want to rip anything an everything up that you can. You want to make sure you have a smooth surface to work with, free of dirt or any junk, old tiles. shit like that.
If it isnt smooth more then likely your going to have to lay down an 1.8 inch backer board before you lay tile.
Your best bet would be to search the webs for info or buy a book from lowes or another home inprovement store.

[dirty30]

Hey Blunt. Are your avatar(s) mug shots of your latest victims? I see you are starting to pick them a bit more "legal"... ;)

please god, not in my simple tile thread

[blunttech]

Hey Blunt. Are your avatar(s) mug shots of your latest victims? I see you are starting to pick them a bit more "legal"... ;)

im sensing you have some interest in the boy in my current avatar. it was always my understanding you guys have an abundance of twinks up there. I mean look at the percentages of canadians on this board..most are hungry cocksuckers.. no need for you to go south is there? although i hear you are famous for "going south"

[dirty30]

What kind of tile are you going to be installing?
Pretty much you want to rip anything an everything up that you can. You want to make sure you have a smooth surface to work with, free of dirt or any junk, old tiles. shit like that.
If it isnt smooth more then likely your going to have to lay down an 1.8 inch backer board before you lay tile.
Your best bet would be to search the webs for info or buy a book from lowes or another home inprovement store.

The tile I will be putting down is 13x13 1/8" tile, does not need to be sealed. Judging by blunts post I should go ahead and cut out the redneck shit that was done by the PO. My biggest question was how smooth I needed to get the floor. Looks like a need at least another layer of plywood or hardyboard after the linoleum and old board comes out.

[blunttech]

The tile I will be putting down is 13x13 1/8" tile, does not need to be sealed. Judging by blunts post I should go ahead and cut out the redneck shit that was done by the PO. My biggest question was how smooth I needed to get the floor. Looks like a need at least another layer of plywood or hardyboard after the linoleum and old board comes out.

yes , do it once. and when you put the new plywood down use liquid nails and deck screws or special subfloor screws. if you do it like this that shit wont crack your grout and you wont have squeaks

[White325is]

from what I remember you only need to screw the outside edge of the board correct?

[dirty30]

yes , do it once. and when you put the new plywood down use liquid nails and deck screws or special subfloor screws. if you do it like this that shit wont crack your grout and you wont have squeaks

This is exactly the reason I am replacing it all. The floor sounded like it was cracking when you walked on it, then a few tiles starting cracking. After taking up a few tiles and noticing how many layers the tile was actually sitting on it all made sense. Linoleum covered in hardy board is not solid enough for tile flooring. Thank you for the advice.

[dirty30]

from what I remember you only need to screw the outside edge of the board correct?

The hardy board/ fiber board?

[blunttech]

The hardy board/ fiber board?

no screw the shit out of it after you lay down liquid nails. and also screw into the joists. it all depends on how far down youre going. but i marked all my joists on the walls. then i laid down new plywood and built it back up to the correct height. i must have put down several hundred screws. i was installing hardwood flooring but the same principle goes (and even moreso) for tile. if you do it this way it will be as solid as jflips buttcheeks and your grout wont crack

[dirty30]

no screw the shit out of it after you lay down liquid nails. and also screw into the joists. it all depends on how far down youre going. but i marked all my joists on the walls. then i laid down new plywood and built it back up to the correct height. i must have put down several hundred screws. i was installing hardwood flooring but the same principle goes (and even moreso) for tile. if you do it this way it will be as solid as jflips buttcheeks and your grout wont crack

lol perfect. Thanks again

I'll PM jflip for the specs.

[aaron325ix]

Go with hardybacker. I just tiled my bathroom, and hardybacker is the only way to go these days. An extra piece was laying around and i used it to stand on while making my cuts with the wet saw, so I wouldnt be in the mud. The next day I went to look at it and it had not swolen one bit and was as strong as could be. and yes use the correct screws for it.

[BimmerTom]

After laying tile in my new house, Blunt speaks the truth. I had a nice new subfloor to work with and that does wonders. I laid down my backerboard with the mastic and those green waterproof screws. Then, tile on top of that. I got it the perfect height so it matches up with our 3/4" solid Hickory floors.

Tom