Back Yard Shed

[3bvert]

for a small shed , those pier pads you have pictured work fine esp if all your doing is putting in a few small things like a lawn mower etc
I had one that was built on those, and held two motorcycles, a generator and a bunch of crap, settled a little , but so the what
ultimate choice, a slab
2nd, poured pads and/or foottings
3rd, pier pads on some rock

will be building one in salem this summer at my sons house
10x12 on option #3

[george graves]

I have a chicken coop I need to build some day - sub'ed

[mrsleeve]

just pour some concert footings at each corner and at half the span of the walls (if they are long), and either side of the door opening to carry the load. then build your shed using anchor plates bolted to the footings.

The just get your self some crushed lime stone, or other clean washed stone and fill in for your flooring.


footing should be about a 12x12 - 18x18 inches square and 16-18 inches deep. sitting on some well compacted sand or pea stone about a foot below that.

use some good pressure treated wood for your sill plates, and get good red heads (brand of wedge anchors ) that you drive into the hole you drill in the footing to give you a bolting down point for the anchor plates

if you live where you get high winds you some roof/rafter/storm clips to keep the roof from blowing off and you will have a fairly storm proof shed.

[DarkWing6]

I'd head over to Garage Journal and see what ideas/examples the guys there have. Pretty much ALL of them recommend a shed to keep your garage clean, so there have got to be a ton of ideas.

I've always like this one build along the back of this guy's house, but it may be too small for your purposes.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55006

[3bvert]

just pour some concert footings at each corner and at half the span of the walls (if they are long), and either side of the door opening to carry the load. then build your shed using anchor plates bolted to the footings.

The just get your self some crushed lime stone, or other clean washed stone and fill in for your flooring.


footing should be about a 12x12 - 18x18 inches square and 16-18 inches deep. sitting on some well compacted sand or pea stone about a foot below that.

use some good pressure treated wood for your sill plates, and get good red heads (brand of wedge anchors ) that you drive into the hole you drill in the footing to give you a bolting down point for the anchor plates

if you live where you get high winds you some roof/rafter/storm clips to keep the roof from blowing off and you will have a fairly storm proof shed.

thats how to do it, right on, and it is correct for our climate as well
the only thing to add, is a duhhhh, is you want the footings all at the same height....duhhh

[b*saint]

vlad what is that huge round thing in the backdrop?

[mrsleeve]

vlad what is that huge round thing in the backdrop?

Salt shed for the county or state DOT to keep the winter road salt dry and outta the elements till they are needed in the winter time.

[Farbin Kaiber]

I built a (http://www.searsoutlet.com/d/product...ource=googleps) shed with a cousin of mine for extra storage, took about 15/20 hours, and basic hand tools. Power tools really help, and they are great for a concrete pad. They also make some nifty floor kits for them. I would suggest this style model, the support system/structure is really good quality/duty.

[AndrewBird]

Int he spring/summer, Costco has pretty awesome looking plastic sheds. Might consider that if you want to go the easy route.

If not, then just build one. Super easy. I put together a Home Depot 10x10 shed kit for a friend by myself in a day and could have built a better one for less money in about the same time. Sheds are easy unless you go crazy with them like Restoman did.

[george graves]

I whipped up these plans tonight for a chicken coup to build while I'm up at my mom's. Haven't price lumber. Might scale it back.

Should be a good little project. Not sure how fast I'll move on it. Keep in mind I was in coma only 6 months ago. I'm still really weak. Muscle atrophy blows. So, we'll see how it goes.

[fannman]

those plans look really good, i would use 5/8s plywood on the roof instead of 3/8s

[george graves]

^thanks. I've never built anything like this before - so it's all new to me. 3/8" might be too thin! Kinda have to see feel the wood to get a better idea.

I'm also spacing the studs 24" apart - Think that will be ok?
Can I get away with 1/2 ply for the flooring?

[Farbin Kaiber]

George, from my experience, it's a bit bigger than you really need. I have a converted tough shed that I'm using, but there is a second one on my property that is about the right size. Quite a bit smaller. Also, the window count, you may want to drop that, too much light in the summer, or too little in the winter and they won't lay. You need to keep them around 12/12. You can leave it bare plywood on the floors, just sweep it out regularly.

How many are you planning on having?



I'll be adding an enclosed chicken run in the next few weeks.

[fannman]

spacing the 2x4's 24" apart is fine, thats normally what we do when we build ours unless you plan on doing drywall or plywood on the inside, then I would go back to 16". lowes sells 3/8" thick plytanium siding plywood that comes in 4'x8' sheets and you hang it verticly, all you have to do is paint it, it is really durable and also cheaper than vinyl siding. and if you want to save some money you can go with 5/8s on the floor but that is smallest i would go because over time 1/2" will start to bow. also if you go with the slanted roof design instead of using trusses, if the roof is going to be 8' wide or more, i would use 2x6's instead of 2x4s to hold the weight load if it snows and the roof wont bow over time.

[george graves]

George, from my experience, it's a bit bigger than you really need.

I've been instructed to do 8'x8'. I guess I could do 8'x6' - but I don't think the cost savings would be worth it. I think mom want like 6 to start with - and later on a dozen of these little fuckers - I don't know.

You need to keep them around 12/12.

What's 12/12?

Thanks for the windows tip. I think I'll do a small one in front - and I'll do hinged panels on the side that can be lifted and propped open for ventilation in the summer/cleaning.

My only concern with the size is warmth in the winter - Plenty of below freezing nights. So I think I might go with a 8'x8' base, and make the actual coop 8'x6' - so that there is a front porch, kind of thing.

spacing the 2x4's 24" apart is fine

Great - then the walls are done. Thank you!

3/8" thick plytanium siding plywood that comes in 4'x8' sheets and you hang it verticly

Yea, I have to get the lumber locally. How about plain, generic 3/8" ply for the sides? I'll add some wood strips painted in trim color to give it the look I want. Would that work?

if you want to save some money you can go with 5/8s on the floor

How about 2x4's for the floor joists at 16" on center and then cover with 3/4" ply? Would that be ok? Or would 1/2" ply and 2x6 for the floor be better?

i would use 2x6's instead of 2x4s to hold the weight load if it snows and the roof wont bow over time.

I think you're saying that with an 8ft span, 2x4 **WILL** sag over time? Hmmm. I bet it would be a lot less with a 6' span.

I've started pricing lumber. Looks to be about $400 for the basics. I'm sure it'll hit $500 all said and done.