new sig please!

[87e30]

WE seem to be explaining most of the stuff in two different ways at least to help him out. I've been playing with my d40 for like 1.5 years on and off and I still suck. It's all for fun and practice.

And yes, 70-200mm f/2.8 is the tits. If the 1600 dollar price tag didn't tell you that.

[87e30]

HAha. I'm with you on that one 100% daniel.

18mm


200mm


Some tilt? I'm feeling it.




And daniel. Sick shots above, I hadn't seen those. External lighting or did you wonder into amazing natural lighting?

[daniel]

And daniel. Sick shots above, I hadn't seen those. External lighting or did you wonder into amazing natural lighting?

thanks!
well those first two shots turned out pretty awesome because it was cloudy outside, and the background behind my car was in the shade. this meant even, diffused light over the car, with a lot of contrast with the background. every time i look at them i still pause for a bit because it looks like they were taken in a studio with special lighting, as you mentioned.

all of my photos of my car in its current state are here (there are a handful on page 2, also, assuming 40 posts/page): http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=140000

all of those were taken with my d60 and sigma 18-250 f/3.5-6.3 lens.

[etta325]

if you are shooting in manual mode (M), then yes, the larger aperture will let in more light relative to smaller apertures when shutter speed is held constant. you need to increase the shutter speed to compensate for this.

in the daytime, i always shoot in aperture priority mode. with a wider aperture (lower f-stop), the shutter speed can be faster, making it easier to capture a moving subject. as a side note, this is why the 70-200mm f/2.8 is such a popular lens. you have major zoom abilities, with a constant maximum aperture. this makes shooting cars that are moving or sports much easier. (don't even bother looking at the price, you will shit yourself).

anyway, you should do a little test. it will help you make more sense of things. during the daytime, pick any subject. even your car. make sure you have spot metering on, so the camera sets exposure settings based on what it is pointing at and focusing on, rather than the whole frame. then set the camera to aperture priority. as you increase the f-stop (making the aperture smaller), you will see the camera compensating for this and it will lower the shutter speed. the smaller the aperture, the slower the shutter speed. the shutter must stay open longer with a smaller aperture because less light is being transmitted to the sensor over the same amount of time.

you might see something like f/4 ss 1/250, then f/8 ss 1/100, f/26 ss 1/8. i just made stuff up there, but you get the idea. depth of field changes significantly, but unless i am shooting a landscape, i rarely find myself needing a small aperture (like f/26) to increase the depth of field with my basic lens which is similar to yours. at f/4, almost everything you shoot will come out as desired. if you are focusing your photo on one thing, always shoot at a wide aperture. if you are focusing on lots of things that are several distances away, then make the aperture smaller.

so how do people shoot with very small apertures without a tripod? they increase the ISO a bit, which increases the sensor's sensitivity to light, allowing a faster shutter speed. in my own experience, i have noticed that increasing the ISO to 400 is a safe level without sacrificing too much image quality, especially in the daytime. ISO changes are much more visible at night. super high end cameras can go up to iso 1600 before seeing significant photo deterioration.

regardless, always shoot ISO 100 unless you find that your photos are coming out a bit blurry, due to a slow shutter speed. this should only happen at night, or if you are shooting a moving subject during the day. you should be able to hold the camera still enough to take a clear photo as long as the shutter speed is 1/25 or faster. you should be able to go even slower, like 1/20 or 1/13, if you have an image stabilized lens. personally, i prefer to shoot with a very wide aperture so that the shutter speed can remain high even at ISO 100.

lots of info to take in, but the best way to learn is trial and error. i think that little test i mentioned above will help you get a better grasp on what is going on with the camera.

I wasnt using a manual mode. I shot most of them at f/11 and ISO 100 that night. I didnt get to much experimenting because the battery died as soon as I moved the car across the parking lot. I might go so some more tonight and see if I can come up with anything else.

I am still kinda lost on the 1/25 1/20 1/13 stuff but I think I will catch up. I will keep my phone with me and take a look at this some day this week and let you know how it goes.

have you heard of new york institute of photography? I am going to be taking online courses there.

[daniel]

I am still kinda lost on the 1/25 1/20 1/13 stuff but I think I will catch up. I will keep my phone with me and take a look at this some day this week and let you know how it goes.

have you heard of new york institute of photography? I am going to be taking online courses there.

the longer the shutter speed (1/13 is longer than 1/25. measured in seconds), the harder it is for you or any human to hold the camera still throughout the whole time the shutter is open. the higher iso bumps up the speed (say, up to 1/50 sec) which is a short enough time to where holding the camera extremely still is no longer important.

i haven't heard of that school but i'm not sure i was spend any money on photo school when there is so much free stuff online to learn from.

[etta325]

ahhh i got it now. thanks man

the school is supposed to be good and I want to have a degree in photography so I can get a really good job somewhere some day doing photography.

[etta325]

can some pone make me a good sig now please?

[truism]

can some pone make me a good sig now please?

its not the best, but here ya go..

[etta325]

thanks man

[jcb123]

how bout this?