Suggest some settings please?

[Bishop]

So, I've been searching and looking through alignment threads and the suspension setup threads, but I don't really have a definitive answer. I'd like to get some input from you guys. I'll start with some details.

GC coils, 450 front, 700 rear w/ camber plates.
I'm not sure about my driving style cause this is my first BMW, thus new driving style. Car will be mostly DD, hopefully attending the offered driving schools, as well as bmw club and scca autox.

What do you guys think about -2* camber, 0 toe, factory castor. I have plates, but to avoid changes in toe, I'm going to just leave it post-alignment.

[!kid]

what about adding camber to rear to help keep the rear end from getting loose ?

[Bishop]

I haven't experienced it yet, and I don't have any way of adjusting rear camber. I have 235/40/17 dunlop star specs on all 4 corners.

[Massive Lee]

what about adding camber to rear to help keep the rear end from getting loose ?

camber requirement depends on suspension stiffness. What makes yo think he needs more camber?

Lee

[Bishop]

I'd like to hear any and all comments. Going to be making appointment first thing monday morning, hopefully they can squeeze me in early in the week.

[Massive Lee]

Hi Bishop

If the car is tracked, I suggest as much front camber as you can. As for front toe, I suggest zero at static. When suspension will compress upon hard braking, this will create some toe out for stability if your steering arms are slightly below horizontal.

[Bishop]

Its going to be DD mostly, with BMW schools, autox with bmw club and scca, and possibly some open track days. Mostly DD though, I was thinking -2* camber, 0 toe, oem caster.

[RangerGress]

Its going to be DD mostly, with BMW schools, autox with bmw club and scca, and possibly some open track days. Mostly DD though, I was thinking -2* camber, 0 toe, oem caster.

You need to think about front and rear settings individually.

If you are going to run -2deg camber in front and neutral in the rear then you're going to end up with a tail happy car. OEM settings are biased towards understeer. That is why you see neg camber in the rear but fairly neutral in front.

It sounds like you are talking about neg camber in front and neutral in the rear, and that's a mistake. A normal set up has rear camber a bit less then front camber. This is because our cars are front heavy and also because too much neg rear camber will create wheel slip when accelerating out of a turn.

Note also that different tires require different alignment specs. A SpecE30 runs -3.5deg in front for Toyo RA1's, and maybe -3deg in front for Toyo R888's.

Here's a couple setups to consider.
F -3.5, R -2.5 to -2.8
F -3, R -2 to -2.3

Rear toe is generally 0. Front toe is generally 0 to 1/8" toe out (1/4" total toe).

Maybe you haven't paid attention to rear camber. My guess is that when you put in your front coilovers you put in some kind of spring in the rear that lowered your car. When the rear was lowered you created neg camber. There are a couple products that will adjust rear camber.

The important thing to think about is front to rear camber "balance". Worry about rear camber as mush as you worry about front.

[Bishop]

Thanks for your input, but I'm not talking OEM in the rear. GC coils are on the car already, I've just been delaying an alignment until my wheels got here, which they have, and the ride height is set where I like it in the front. The rear is lower, but I am just focusing on the front for now. I want to set the front because I think I am going to leave the ride height as is, and finesse the rear post-alignment, when I have some time to properly scrape the rear fenders and roll them, or even pull all 4 corners. I've also heard / been told to run 0 toe front and rear. This isn't going to be SE30, this isn't going to be anything. It's going to be my DD that will see as many autoxs, bmw schools, and open track days as possible until I'm more comfortable behind the wheel. I've done autox and track before, but in a turbo AWD, so NA RWD is kinda new, hence the questions.

You need to think about front and rear settings individually.

If you are going to run -2deg camber in front and neutral in the rear then you're going to end up with a tail happy car. OEM settings are biased towards understeer. That is why you see neg camber in the rear but fairly neutral in front.

It sounds like you are talking about neg camber in front and neutral in the rear, and that's a mistake. A normal set up has rear camber a bit less then front camber. This is because our cars are front heavy and also because too much neg rear camber will create wheel slip when accelerating out of a turn.

Note also that different tires require different alignment specs. A SpecE30 runs -3.5deg in front for Toyo RA1's, and maybe -3deg in front for Toyo R888's.

Here's a couple setups to consider.
F -3.5, R -2.5 to -2.8
F -3, R -2 to -2.3

Rear toe is generally 0. Front toe is generally 0 to 1/8" toe out (1/4" total toe).

Maybe you haven't paid attention to rear camber. My guess is that when you put in your front coilovers you put in some kind of spring in the rear that lowered your car. When the rear was lowered you created neg camber. There are a couple products that will adjust rear camber.

The important thing to think about is front to rear camber "balance". Worry about rear camber as mush as you worry about front.

[325is///M-tech]

The front of the car is aligned off the back of the car. If you align it with current heights and then change the rear later it will effect the entire car.

On my track car I am running:

Front camber: -3.8*
Front toe: 1/4* toe out

Rear camber: -3.3*
Rear toe: 1/3*toe in (non adjustable stuck with it for now, would like a little less)

Car runs on 225-50/15 Toyo RA-1's

Daily driven 318is is about a degree and a half less and as close to zero toe as i can get.

[Bishop]

Ok, so -2.3* is pretty close to -2*. Now, I'm happy that everyone is chiming in since I'll be setting appointment tomorrow, but this isn't strictly a track car, and I don't plan on adjusting camber when I go to the track. I want to get a good alignment for DD / track use with 0 toe, and leaving it so the toe doesn't change when I slide the camber plates. I wasn't aware the front is done off the rear. I'm pretty happy right now with the height front and back, the back rubs a tiny bit so I was planning on properly rolling the rear then being set. I'm not saying this will be my end all be all settings, I'm just looking for input on somewhere to start. Also, suggestions on ride height and ANYTHING is welcome... This is my first BMW so I'm not sure what everything should be exactly yet.

[!kid]

camber requirement depends on suspension stiffness. What makes yo think he needs more camber?

Lee

what about adding camber to rear to help keep the rear end from getting loose ?

[Bishop]

Based on what you said earlier, and mostly on what Gress was talking about, I went for a spin. I tossed the car as much as I could on public streets, as is, with no ill results, not even a tire squeal.

I'm curious as to what it is set at right now in the rear, because honestly.... I'm happy. I was thinking lower, people were saying go lower.... But its a DD that will see Colorado winters, so not too low.

[!kid]

you set your camber already ?

[Bishop]

No. I've had the coilovers installed a while, and the ride height was adjusted a while ago. I was going to try and roll the rears this weekend and lower it some more, but didn't get around to it, and I want to get the front end aligned this week. However, rear camber is ride height dependent, so I guess it's been set since the install.... You guys were saying I need more camber in the rear, but I haven't had an issue on the street yet, pushing pretty hard. I realize it's not on-track conditions, but like I said before, this is DD / track, and I just need a starting point and something to build on.