Tires for track wheels- (14s?)

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • rwh11385
    replied
    I've tracked and autocrossed falken azenis rt-215 in 195 on 14's as well as 205 on 15's. 195 got too hot and greasy quickly, and the 205s performed well on the track. auto-x they were fine either size and pretty fast

    I've also ran 205 es100s on 15s and they put up well with tracking and auto-x, although not fast. I have a set of 205-60-14s now, but have not tracked them yet. They go alright at auto-x and street, albeit not as sticky. Skafrog was a big fan of them, and they're a good size on 14s

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    There you go. I was just quoting shit off the top of my head. If 13lbs is the minimum then the TRM 15x7 wheels will work I think (13.1lbs?), but the 15x8s are obviously spec E30 illegal.

    Leave a comment:


  • kishg
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    You have to run 15x7 or 14x6 (well I think it's 14x6, but nobody runs those) wheels, at least 13.5lbs (the TRM C1s are a bit too light for SE30). SE30 tires are either RA1s or R888s, I can't remember what they are off the top of my head. Either way they're certainly streetable, especially if the car isn't a DD. Nando's running 235/50R15 R888s and I think he said they'd worn pretty well at 7-10k miles including track days and autox.

    Edit: apparently they're RA1s :p
    13# is the minimum. Tires are switched back to RA-1 for 2010 since Toyo started making them again after everyone bitched about R-888s. R-888s are still allowed through some grace period IIRC.

    14x6.5 is also an allowed wheel size. allowed tire sizes are 205/55/14 or 205/50/15

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Originally posted by phenryiv1
    I just emailed them.

    I feel myself sinking into a pit of spending...

    So new question- I have to run certain tires if I eventually go SpecE30, correct? And they are not really appropriate for the street, correct?

    Crap.
    You have to run 15x7 or 14x6 (well I think it's 14x6, but nobody runs those) wheels, at least 13.5lbs (the TRM C1s are a bit too light for SE30). SE30 tires are either RA1s or R888s, I can't remember what they are off the top of my head. Either way they're certainly streetable, especially if the car isn't a DD. Nando's running 235/50R15 R888s and I think he said they'd worn pretty well at 7-10k miles including track days and autox.

    Edit: apparently they're RA1s :p

    Leave a comment:


  • kishg
    replied
    Originally posted by phenryiv1
    I just emailed them.

    I feel myself sinking into a pit of spending...

    So new question- I have to run certain tires if I eventually go SpecE30, correct? And they are not really appropriate for the street, correct?

    Crap.
    Yes, you need to run Toyo RA-1s (R-comps). I'd go with street tires for now and when you have some more experience get a set of RA-1s.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    I just emailed them.

    I feel myself sinking into a pit of spending...

    So new question- I have to run certain tires if I eventually go SpecE30, correct? And they are not really appropriate for the street, correct?

    Crap.

    Leave a comment:


  • kishg
    replied
    Originally posted by phenryiv1
    That is probably easier than building my 2.7i...

    Can I use a motor from an auto?
    yes you can. again, get in touch with levent or turk, they can source a motor for you.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by kishg
    so sell the head and bolt-ons and pickup a motor, keep the gaskets/t-belt kit and freshen the motor you got, pull eta and swap in i motor.. no brainer ;)
    That is probably easier than building my 2.7i...

    Can I use a motor from an auto?

    Leave a comment:


  • kishg
    replied
    Originally posted by phenryiv1
    Yeah- I head (885) with everything that bolts from there on up/forward, plus ECU, and cluster.

    As for gaskets, I have all of the top-end stuff- IM gasket, head gasket, VC gasket, head bolts, WP and T-stat gaskets, TB kit, new WP, new T-stat, Cam seals, etc. Missing the exhaust mani gaskets, but pretty much everything else.
    so sell the head and bolt-ons and pickup a motor, keep the gaskets/t-belt kit and freshen the motor you got, pull eta and swap in i motor.. no brainer ;)

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    On a somewhat related note, I just got a PM about a new set of the wheels (no tires) on my "preferred" list for $375 shipped.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by kishg
    it may not be too late.. sell the parts and source an i motor. that's an i head with i IM, ECU correct? should be easy to sell. what seals/gaskets do you have?
    Yeah- I head (885) with everything that bolts from there on up/forward, plus ECU, and cluster.

    As for gaskets, I have all of the top-end stuff- IM gasket, head gasket, VC gasket, head bolts, WP and T-stat gaskets, TB kit, new WP, new T-stat, Cam seals, etc. Missing the exhaust mani gaskets, but pretty much everything else.

    Leave a comment:


  • kishg
    replied
    it may not be too late.. sell the parts and source an i motor. that's an i head with i IM, ECU correct? should be easy to sell. what seals/gaskets do you have?

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by kishg
    i know your partially into your swap but if i was you I'd just swap an entire i motor in and be done with it.
    If I had half a brain, that would be what I'd do. If I did not have so much money tied up in parts, I'd find an M20B25 in running condition, buy it, and drive. I have $100-150 in seals, gaskets, etc., plus $225 in swap hardparts (head, IM, ECU, etc.).

    If I had it to do again I'd have just bought an "is" to begin with.

    So many things that I have done wrong...

    Leave a comment:


  • kishg
    replied
    Originally posted by phenryiv1
    With the current motor (M20B27) I can't run SpecE30, and especially once I do my top-end build, I won't qualify, but I DO like the idea that the SE30 setup has been tried and tested. More seat time, less wrench time.

    I was searching for all of the wrong user names on here!
    i know your partially into your swap but if i was you I'd just swap an entire i motor in and be done with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by kishg
    It's not bad at all for an occasional street car. If you want GC's i'll be selling my kit sometime soon because i'm racing spec e30 next year but I'd still recommend you go with the Spec e30 suspension right now. I didn't actually adjust the GCs a whole lot, once i had the car corner balance each season i would just adjust the damper firmness, not the ride height. yes gutenparts.com or contact them on the forum (ZM Blue Devil or Brewcity11).
    With the current motor (M20B27) I can't run SpecE30, and especially once I do my top-end build, I won't qualify, but I DO like the idea that the SE30 setup has been tried and tested. More seat time, less wrench time.

    I was searching for all of the wrong user names on here!

    Leave a comment:

Working...