Ride height to low hinder you handeling?

[SA E30]

In terms of pure grip, the point at which your strut axis is perpendicular to the control arm is the crossover in the camber curve derivative--the point at which your dynamic camber is maxed out, and you will begin to lose negative camber on compression instead of gain it. Generally you'll want to set the ride height a good margin north of that point.

But "handling" is not quite as simple as camber curves, you also have to take into account the tie rod geometry, bump steer (and toe steer especially) is never fun. Strut travel, etc are also obviously equally as important.

That's quite a generalization at the travel needed is dependent on spring rates. So if you are running stiffer springs you can theoretically run the car lower before as it takes more force to compress the springs and get to the point in which the strut starts gaining positive camber.

[SA E30]

Sway bars are your friend, in terms of body roll.

Yes and No. It is one way to control body roll but you can also do it with springs.

The downside to sway bars they don't allow the wheels to act independently.

The downside to using springs is that it can make the car over sprung and jumpy on a not so smooth track.

[theox69]

Sway bars are your friend, in terms of body roll.

[Wh33lhop]

In terms of pure grip, the point at which your strut axis is perpendicular to the control arm is the crossover in the camber curve derivative--the point at which your dynamic camber is maxed out, and you will begin to lose negative camber on compression instead of gain it. Generally you'll want to set the ride height a good margin north of that point.

But "handling" is not quite as simple as camber curves, you also have to take into account the tie rod geometry, bump steer (and toe steer especially) is never fun. Strut travel, etc are also obviously equally as important.

[SA E30]

So that begs the question.... what is too low? what is too stiff?

That sounds like a rhetorical question.

It all depends on variables. How far are you prepared to modify your suspension/chassis, do your class rules allow for it, what is the car used for.

On stock geometry it is a function of both height and spring rate. Go only as low as it takes to get the control arms roughly level with the ground. Then you don't really want them to go past that so theoretically if you are going to have any travel you would still want a small angle / \ on your arms.

Making sense?

[erik325i]

I am with H&R cup kits

H&R Cup Kit springs are not for the track. They are far too soft. Get some real suspension (coilovers), and then play with the heights.

Erik

[87e30]

So that begs the question.... what is too low? what is too stiff?

[omar85]

what is comes down to is the lower the cooler. period.

[Massive Lee]

Just heat up your springs til they are red hot and then compress them with spring compressors, then cut off half of the coils. Dont bother with buying anything, or shocks or anything like that. This is the only way to do it.

Wow. There's a ghetto in Portland?

[E30Pedia]

Just heat up your springs til they are red hot and then compress them with spring compressors, then cut off half of the coils. Dont bother with buying anything, or shocks or anything like that. This is the only way to do it.

Naw braaa! No springs braaa.. h3lla flush braaa!

[E30Pedia]

A car that is heavily lowered needs to have its suspension geometry modified to account for the lowering: some type of roll center spacers for the control arms and steering arms, raising the subframe, etc.

The lower the car, the stiffer the suspension should be. And not all tracks are friendly with extra stiff suspension. You don't want your car to bounce on bumps.

BTW we are talking track stuff, right?

Am talking about Track/AutoX/Canyons. My car is lowerd 2 inches all around. After hearing this, ive been thinking about rasing it. I am with H&R cup kits, which i dont think are stif enough. I do get considerable amount of bodyroll through turns.

It's because of the crap front suspension geometry. Go too low and the car will actually want to roll more in a turn.

I see how it works now. Do the e36's come with this suspension geometry also?( sorry for not doing the search my self. Too damn lazy for my own good)

Read this: http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3per...t_transfer.htm

Then, read the rest of the site. You will be 5x smarter than r3v after.

Great info, thanks a lot.

[JMil86]

Just heat up your springs til they are red hot and then compress them with spring compressors, then cut off half of the coils. Dont bother with buying anything, or shocks or anything like that. This is the only way to do it.

[Skafrog]

Read this: http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3per...t_transfer.htm

Then, read the rest of the site. You will be 5x smarter than r3v after.

[nrubenstein]

It's because of the crap front suspension geometry. Go too low and the car will actually want to roll more in a turn.

[Massive Lee]

A car that is heavily lowered needs to have its suspension geometry modified to account for the lowering: some type of roll center spacers for the control arms and steering arms, raising the subframe, etc.

The lower the car, the stiffer the suspension should be. And not all tracks are friendly with extra stiff suspension. You don't want your car to bounce on bumps.

BTW we are talking track stuff, right?