Didn't see this but how much is the total swap costing? How much would you expect someone to spend from junkyard engine, rebuilding, and then adding what it needs and then your kit? I'm very curious about this swap but I've heard it'll run upwards of 10k!!!!
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Originally posted by slaterd View PostDidn't see this but how much is the total swap costing? How much would you expect someone to spend from junkyard engine, rebuilding, and then adding what it needs and then your kit? I'm very curious about this swap but I've heard it'll run upwards of 10k!!!!
We spent another $4000 on developing the swap -- we needed lots of tools (engine hoist, MIG welder, chop saw, hand tools, etc) and we bought all-new lowered suspension, all-new brakes & hubs, all-new steering rack & control arms, driveshaft mods, misc swap parts, A/C lines, new condenser & evaporator, power steering lines, HydroBoost, & "stuff".
If you spend the same for your engine & tranny, and do all of the work yourself, you'll spend about 2500 more for our kit & needed stuff. This assumes no other suspension & brake mods, etc.
You might of heard "10k!!!" from people who are just guessing. Only a few E30-LSx swaps in existence anywhere -- be the first in your local 250,000 square miles to have one!Last edited by garretvs; 01-09-2012, 12:34 PM.E30-LS1 aka. 357is
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no but it seems the majority of the finances in this swap come from the tranny and engine. On craigslist I'm finding some motors+tranny for 16-1900. That with the kit, plus ad on say...1500 extra for other parts needed? Looking at about 4600-5k? Idk I'm just guessing though.Originally posted by Wh33lhopThis is r3v. Check your vaginal sand at the door.
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Originally posted by Zesty Bonanza View PostDoes the LS ECU hook up to the gauge cluster perfectly or are the revs off a little? My tach and water gauges stopped working so I was wondering if I should fix that first before swapping or if it is pointless and I should get a separate tach and gauges.
The temp guage, oil pressure & coolant temps work, as does the cruise control and A/C. You have an OBD2 socket and a MIL light that work -- necessary for dyno work (if you want to; not really necessary) after the swap.......E30-LS1 aka. 357is
email us to pick up our LS1 swap guide
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E30LS1@gmail.com
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I read through the thread and it sounds interesting.
Have you ever given thought to building one and selling the basic assembly done? That way, the new owner could handle the body, paint, interior, etc. himself.
I would love one of these, but I don't have the mechanical skills to do it. However, I would be interested in buying one done, or close to done.
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Originally posted by Zesty Bonanza View PostIf the LS1 engine was modified to have a dry sump would the engine still fit into the bay (and not be too low)? If I was to use an accusump instead of a dry sump, would it still fit?
But yes the engine would fit with either.
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Originally posted by Zesty Bonanza View PostIf the LS1 engine was modified to have a dry sump would the engine still fit into the bay (and not be too low)? If I was to use an accusump instead of a dry sump, would it still fit?
The reason that the engine position doesn't change is that the engine/transmission angle has to be a certain value, plus/minus 1degree, relative to the driveshaft. The fwd and aft u-joint angles must match. If they don't, the rear end tries to eat the tranny & driveshaft.
For the detailed explanation, search a u-joint manufacturer's website (Dana, etc)E30-LS1 aka. 357is
email us to pick up our LS1 swap guide
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E30LS1@gmail.com
e30ls1.com
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just a point of ref. a buddy of mine just dynod his ls1/t56 (99 camaro) swapped fc and with a tune, intake, headers and a 3" back. he put down 322/336.
also you claim that i can say im the only person with in 250,000 square miles but if i remember right your in lynnhood which means i'd be the only person within 25 square miles.
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