New to E30 and track events.

[sonej4]

For a track only car, AKG aluminum subframe and differential bushings.

Sorry. Found them. I am guessing the aluminum ones need to be pressed in and therefore I should remove the subframe.

sorry for typos, from phone
E30, FA5

[jlevie]

Sorry. Found them. I am guessing the aluminum ones need to be pressed in and therefore I should remove the subframe.

Yep, and while the subframe is out install weld-in camber/toe adjusters. The new ones from IE look like they will work well and hold their settings.

[Emre]

Many things have happened since my last post. I still have the e30, but was diagnosed with Leukemia a little over a year ago. I am now in remission, but still taking oral chemo.

Sorry to hear that. Glad you're feeling better.

What is the best subframe bushings and diff mount for track only?

Personally, I would stay away from solid aluminum unless the car is 100% track/race and will be trailered to events.

Get urethane bushings (from AKG, Ireland Engineering, etc.) for the engine, transmission, diff, rear subframe, and rear shock mount. They feel great on the track and they won't beat your car up too badly.

Thanks. I was planning on running my street tires the first few times. Falken Azenis 615k

I haven't run the new "K" compound, but I have lots of experience with the older compound in the Azenis RT-615 and Azenis Sport RT-215. The old ones gripped very well in the dry once the tread had been shaved/worn down a bit. Full tread, they were very squirmy. But even when shaved, they would get greasy after about 15 minutes of hard use. They'd feel great for a while and then (with no warning) all grip would suddenly be gone.

I've heard that the RT-615K compound is stickier than the original compound and that the tires are now molded with less treat depth. Sounds great! However, in the shoot-out conducted by Grassroots Motorsports magazine a few months back, they said the RT-615K still gets greasy after a few minutes on the track and never really recovers until the tires cool completely. In other words, it might be good for auto-cross or a time-trial, but it's probably not ideal for open track.

I think the Azenis was a fantastic tire for casual track/HPDE use around 10 years ago. When it was introduced, there was no street tire that performed better on the track...especially at such a low price. But these days, you've got a number of low-cost summer tires that will perform better: the Hankook R-S3, Kumho Ecsta XS, and Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec are all excellent choices.

The guys at GRM seem to favor the Hankook R-S3 as the best all-around summer tire for mixed street/track and dry/wet use.

[sonej4]

Thanks for the well thought out and informative responses.

I was leaning towards the stiff poly bushings.

I only have a few things left to be ready. I am planning to remove the sunroof and skin it when I feel up to it.

sorry for typos, from phone
E30, FA5

[Toadleg]

Yep, and while the subframe is out install weld-in camber/toe adjusters. The new ones from IE look like they will work well and hold their settings.

I just installed the ie weld-in camber/toe adjusters its a good idea for a lowered car and seems to lock in well, but I have not track tested it yet. I also did the TA bushings since I had it apart.

[VinniE30]

With poly transmission bushings will you be at a greater risk for breaking the transmission tabs? I've heard of them breaking with even the stock bushings. So I would think the poly bushing would be even harder on them. Do you guys ever worry about other things breaking or coming loose with poly bushings? since theres much more vibration and stress on everything..

[SkinnyVT]

With poly transmission bushings will you be at a greater risk for breaking the transmission tabs? I've heard of them breaking with even the stock bushings. So I would think the poly bushing would be even harder on them. Do you guys ever worry about other things breaking or coming loose with poly bushings? since theres much more vibration and stress on everything..

Nope, ran aluminum motor and tranny mounts all last year. The 6cyl drivetrain is so smooth there really isn't any appreciable vibration, only times I got any sort of shake was when the engine was cold and didn't like the cam. I could see the tranny tabs breaking if the tranny mounts were stiffer than the engine mounts and were forced to take more of the load but otherwise the bulk of the rotational force should be taken by the engine mounts.

[VinniE30]

Nope, ran aluminum motor and tranny mounts all last year. The 6cyl drivetrain is so smooth there really isn't any appreciable vibration, only times I got any sort of shake was when the engine was cold and didn't like the cam. I could see the tranny tabs breaking if the tranny mounts were stiffer than the engine mounts and were forced to take more of the load but otherwise the bulk of the rotational force should be taken by the engine mounts.

Thanks for the input. By the way, I have an M30, but I don't see why the M30 would be any "less smooth" than the M20.