Sebring Track Day Pics

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  • briansjacobs
    replied
    Originally posted by Lof8
    My air filter is directly behind the high beam, I figure it can't hurt to let some air flow directly at it.
    it is good for up to 5-6 hp, great if you are racing or on the track, i would not bother doing it in a street car as I would rather have night vision than 5hp

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  • Lof8
    replied
    Originally posted by leegf
    nice! just getting ready to pounce on that boxster.

    did you remove the driver side high beam for better cooling?
    My air filter is directly behind the high beam, I figure it can't hurt to let some air flow directly at it.

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  • Jafxod
    replied
    Awesome pics man, gettin me really excited to get out on the track this summer.

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  • leegf
    replied
    Originally posted by Lof8
    nice! just getting ready to pounce on that boxster.

    did you remove the driver side high beam for better cooling?

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  • Lof8
    replied
    Originally posted by gverelli
    sick pics, how hard was it to clean the windshield loll
    :D The key is to wait until early morning when the dew has made all of their smashed bodies moist and malleable. Then you drive to the do-it-yourself car wash and use the high pressure gun. They come off fairly easily then.

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  • gverelli
    replied
    sick pics, how hard was it to clean the windshield loll

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  • Fusion
    replied
    I've driven quite a few cars, but a driver smile like that only happens in the thirty.

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  • briansjacobs
    replied
    my sworn to work enduro combo is Castro SRF, Cobalts and BFG R1's

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  • briansjacobs
    replied
    Originally posted by dude8383

    Hmmm if they make them for wilwood application I'm interested.
    they sure do!

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  • dude8383
    replied
    Originally posted by Lof8
    Holy shit! Are those HT10s or another pad? I need to check mine!
    Yup, those were my HT-10's! You should ahaha

    Originally posted by briansjacobs
    might I suggest Cobalt Friction pads, they are fantastic with good initial torque and release. Also a little easier to modulate. I have been running them on various cars since about 2001 with a good level of success.
    Hmmm if they make them for wilwood application I'm interested.

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  • pilotskillse30
    replied
    Looks like it was alot of fun...and yes we have to deal with love bugs(f$%k bugs here, I hate them, they should be rolling into Savannah in a few

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  • briansjacobs
    replied
    might I suggest Cobalt Friction pads, they are fantastic with good initial torque and release. Also a little easier to modulate. I have been running them on various cars since about 2001 with a good level of success.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lof8
    replied
    Holy shit! Are those HT10s or another pad? I need to check mine!

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  • dude8383
    replied
    Originally posted by Lof8
    I'm still using the HT10s. They are great at the track, very grippy and very consistent. They're pretty dusty and a bit squeaky for the street, but I don't do a lot of street driving anyway.
    Nice! Mine lasted about 1 3/4 days.

    Here's a pic of what happened to them at that point:



    Thats what happens when you don't check your pads after each run. LOL. Luckily I had a spare set of rotors because mine were completely glazed and spare pads. I couldn't remove the baked on pad from the piston though. Had to drive home like that, stop fine though, no issues. Going to replace the piston tomorrow hehe.

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  • briansjacobs
    replied
    Originally posted by Lof8
    Hey Brian, I didn't realize you were here on R3V! Very nice to meet you too.
    I come and go depending on work. Let me know when you are going to an event and if schedule permits I'll try to make it out.

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