Alignment recommendations?

[Jaxx_]

Actually it is when the control arm to strut angle is 90 degrees, but yes. This is assuming he is at a reasonable ride height and not stretched and poked/hellaflush/stanced/whatever.

yes, that's what i should have said. Thanks for clarifying. :)

Turned out to be about 0.1° toe, camber is 2.7°, caster 8°. I forget the rear.
Feels great now, only difference is that the steering isn't as willing to return to the center as before. Not that I mind it much, but is that a side effect of the neg. camber?

the negative camber should really most effect tramlining when talking about drivability. More caster means it will return to center easier. I think what would be doing what you describe is the toe. When it's toe neutral or toe out you usually have to drive the car 100 percent of the time. Like, it should wander a little when driving straight.

[Fusion]

Turned out to be about 0.1° toe, camber is 2.7°, caster 8°. I forget the rear.
Feels great now, only difference is that the steering isn't as willing to return to the center as before. Not that I mind it much, but is that a side effect of the neg. camber?

And I still have the problem of the steering boots unable to exchange air, so they blow up or thin out, depending on turn. Any ideas?

Edit: Drove home through some bends and it seems things are "loosening up" and the wheel is returing better.
Track day thursday, here I come!

[Wh33lhop]

don't forget that when the control arm gets past 0 degrees you start losing camber.

Actually it is when the control arm to strut angle is 90 degrees, but yes. This is assuming he is at a reasonable ride height and not stretched and poked/hellaflush/stanced/whatever.

[Jaxx_]

What he said.

Caster is awesome but after about 11 degrees you will start to get a weight jacking effect at sharp steering angles which is no fun. Keep in mind the rear suspension gains camber more quickly than the front, so you will want to run more camber in the front to compensate.

don't forget that when the control arm gets past 0 degrees you start losing camber.

[Wh33lhop]

For track use set the toe to zero and as much caster as possible. How much camber to use depends on the tires being used. R-Comps will probably want all the camber you camber you can get, which when not using coil overs will around 3.5deg. For street tires 2-2.5deg would be a good place to start.

What he said.

Caster is awesome but after about 11 degrees you will start to get a weight jacking effect at sharp steering angles which is no fun. Keep in mind the rear suspension gains camber more quickly than the front, so you will want to run more camber in the front to compensate.

[Jaxx_]

alignment values won't work for every car and for everyone. I prefer no toe or a little toe out in the front, I think last time they dialed in .5 deg. I don't have anything else adjustable so I only have factory adjustments. I do have H&R race so that ads a bit of camber.

Nothing is going to replace testing and tuning according to your preference.

[Fusion]

Yea, I'm going to start of with the street tires again and "work my way up" to rcomps and different settings later, so I know what it feels like in different situations.
Thanks guys!

[jlevie]

For track use set the toe to zero and as much caster as possible. How much camber to use depends on the tires being used. R-Comps will probably want all the camber you camber you can get, which when not using coil overs will around 3.5deg. For street tires 2-2.5deg would be a good place to start.

[bmwguy325is]

HMMMM
Well this set up might not help.
However this is what I run
I had a shop align my front end with stock toe and 2deg camber. (that was the outer most or fender side it would go) Then I added a full degree of camber so neg 3 and all the caster one day at the track. So the toe is what ever you get from that. It sounds dumb but the car feels pretty good.
In the rear I run a lil over .5 neg camber and zero the toe. I have the eccentric bushings though.

[Fusion]

I'll be seeing an alignment guy probably tomorrow after all the refurb I've done up front and would like to know if there's any track specific info I might need. He seemed pretty generous over the phone and I told him this isn't a DD so I might not want settings his computer might spew out.
I've set the front camber to 2/3, 1 being center setting and 3 most negative. The front wheels now have similar camber to the rear wheels, but I've only done a short test drive. Also, the camber plate sort of points to the rear of the car, not straight across to the other shock tower, so I think it might have added some slight caster.

What would you recommend for high speed circuit especially toe, which is totally off now (I eyeballed it).