so I'm getting into offroad rallying and I'm working on the 89 325is for my dirt box-to-be. My funds are limited to about 5k total for a build. I'm not looking for a full on racing machine just something to have fun with my jeeping friends and to possibly get into some competetive racing. I've heard of people doing the same thing using seperate parts off of other year/model of bmw's. which parts of these alternate bmw's would be best for my offroading needs. ie. brake upgrades from later models, suspension units that are compatible and are beefier, etc. Also if you have some pictures of you offroad rallying feel free to post 'em.
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I'm also interested because I'd like to build a cross country type touring and was wondering how to lift these cars, make the suspension jumpable etc. -
From what I've researched the suspension for the 325is.ix. and some other model is actually very good for it. Some people have told me to get h&r sports. They lower about an inch all around but if you add some rubber bushings it'll offset what you've lost. So better cornering with stock ground clearance. I'm writing an article right now with all the research compiled and I have at least a page and a half just on suspension components that I can useOriginally posted by Wh33lhopComment
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best bet is a wilwood bbk and ast/ohlins coilovers.
just my $0.02Comment
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Idk if dropping 1500 for a brake kit would be that cost efficient. I don't think ill be going fast enough to really need it. Plus the higher stopping power with the brakes and the lower traction of dirt/sand would just lock my wheels up 10x easier. I tink just a better biting brake pad set would be idealOriginally posted by Wh33lhopComment
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Yea, Zimmermann drilled + good pads. In offroad (non asphalt) conditions I doubt they would fade because 1) you'll have lots od wheel slip 2) you won't be getting to track speeds.
A hydraulic hand brake would probably be good.Comment
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Speaking from experience, as I have rallied an E28 and two different E30s, I'd say stock suspension is your best starting point, but get some Bilstien HD springs, you will need dampening. Keep the stock sways in there, or you will lose control. Run some 195/70/14 snow tires on stock wheels. Also, gutting your car is very important as it does a few things: You won't get your carpet full of mud if you have no carpet, and by lightening the car, it effectively lifts the car and makes the suspension stiffer.
However, there are people on this board with WAAAAY more experience than me.
Here are some threads that can help.
Here is my buddy Mike's rally build thread for his 325is. He is going to get into stage rally with Rally America. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=205598
Here is the last time I rallied. My car is the black E28, Mike's rally E30 is here too. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209848
Here is the time before, my car is the alpine E30, my buddy Mike is in his jeep. Hint: H&R Races are NOT good rally springs. ;) http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=203429Last edited by iamsam; 08-01-2011, 08:49 AM.Comment
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I just 'finished' my first stage rally, the New England Forest Rally.
Iamcreepingdeath is right on the money.
Essentially, except for the cage, skid plate and bash bar (and other required Rally American safety bits), my car is close to stock. I have IE motor mounts and used Bilstein HD shocks/struts with stock -- original -- springs. Brakes, stock (used for three years, including five autocrosses). Engine, stock. Diff, LSD, stock. Even ran the stock exhaust.
Technically I finished my first rally, which was Day 1 regional, but I cracked my oil pan on Day 2, the second regional (NEFR is the national and Mexico and Errol are the regionals, but run concurrently).
You can do stock everything, just protect that oil pan!!! Although Maine is known as the "car breaker".
Good luck and have fun!Attached FilesComment
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Awesome...so protect the oil pan with skid plating. Can I use all season tires or should I. Go with the winter tires like mentioned previouslyOriginally posted by Wh33lhopComment
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Did you buy a kit to mount those lights on the front or did.you fabricate a mount?Originally posted by Wh33lhopComment
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you dont need many special parts and shit, just make sure everything is tip-top.
Originally posted by stewie30luvrOriginally posted by JakePComment
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If it's rallycross, you could go with just all-seasons, but a lot of people use snow tires for rallycross. Although at Maine, I saw a few with snow tires too, as opposed to full-on rally tires (on a Geo Metro with a motorcycle engine). Ironically, when I autocrossed my car on pavement, I used 10-year-old snow tires. It makes things more difficult, but it helps in the end.
The rally tires I have are also very old and worn, but thought they would be better than new snows (plus, I got them for $20/each...that helped).
Thanks, I made the mud flaps out of some material my sponsor had laying around in his basement and just self-tapped them into the wheel wells.
My cage guy (Bill Doyle, of cagethis.com, shameless plug) made the light bar. It's pretty sick. It's aluminum and he welded tabs to the bumper. I can remove the bar, but I was testing it's mettle, so to speak, so I could make sure it stayed on that night (it did).
Despite the skid plate and the bash bar, which was/is like a roll cage built around the oil pan underneath the skid plate, we still cracked the pan. I was trying to avoid giant rocks and ended up hitting one unseen one (finished the stage though).
And what jasonsnoddy said. I got brand-new -- but stock -- control arms and swapped a newer steering rack.Comment
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Check out this thread too. Some light reading...
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