Chump/lemons rotors

[jandress]

I was hoping that I could get some advice from fellow E30 racers that have run long endurance races in Chump or Lemons as to which rotors they have had the best success with. After 6-8 hours, ours shake like the shuttle re-entering the atmosphere!

Thanks

[jlevie]

I've never experienced that problem, well except when a rotor cracks.I'd expect a new set of rotors to make it all the way through a LeMons or Chump weekend. As to what rotors to use, I've not found any difference between the cheapest ones I can find and more pricey varieties. I get three to five race weekends out of a set of front rotors before they crack.

What pads are you using? For long enduros PFC 06 pads are my choice.

[acolella76]

You may have a problem other than the brake rotors if new rotors are toast after 6 hours.

I've never experienced that problem, well except when a rotor cracks.I'd expect a new set of rotors to make it all the way through a LeMons or Chump weekend. As to what rotors to use, I've not found any difference between the cheapest ones I can find and more pricey varieties. I get three to five race weekends out of a set of front rotors before they crack.

What pads are you using? For long enduros PFC 06 pads are my choice.

This. I believe this is what we are running in our Chump Car.

[jandress]

We are running Hawk HP Plus now I believe. Ill look into the FPC 06's

thanks

[jandress]

You may have a problem other than the brake rotors if new rotors are toast after 6 hours.



This. I believe this is what we are running in our Chump Car.

Did you run Road Atlanta last weekend? If so, which e30 were you in and did you have any shaking/warping at the end of the day on Sat?

Thx

Justin

[gobuffs]

HP plus is not a real track pad...I'd start there.

[jlevie]

It would not be difficult to exceed the maximum operating temperature of HP+ pads in a race scenario. Especially in an enduro. That can result in uneven pad deposits on the rotors and thus vibrations.

Install a new set of rotors and switch a real race pad. Then see how it goes next time.

[dinanm3atl]

We are running Hawk HP Plus now I believe. Ill look into the FPC 06's

thanks

The HP+ is at best an Auto-X pad. It does not take a lot of heat very well. I would run PFC06 in your ChumpCar. That is what we will be running but more than likely switching the new 08 compound. Should be even better for an event like ChumpCar.

For rotors on E30s and E36s I have tracked I go for cheap aftermarket blanks. I even tracked my E36 M3 with Hawk HT14/HT10 on OPParts Chinese blanks. They lasted as long and worked as well as the OEM 2pc Euro Floating roators... don't waste your money. Stock up on rotors and an extra set of pads. Bring those with you. EASY to swap at the track if you do run into issues but upgrade those pads.

It would not be difficult to exceed the maximum operating temperature of HP+ pads in a race scenario. Especially in an enduro. That can result in uneven pad deposits on the rotors and thus vibrations.

Install a new set of rotors and switch a real race pad. Then see how it goes next time.

100% agree.

[Emre]

Balo rotors plus real track pads.
PF06 is good. Carbotech XP9 and XP10 are good.

[XvillainousX]

We normally run HT10s on cheap chinese rotors. If shaking gets bad enough that one of my drivers says its too unsettling we swap out with a new pair of rotors. Another thing we've experienced after numerous events was our rims got warped from all that curb jumping, offroading, and bashing into other cars.

[priapism]

Save your money on rotors. Spend good money on pads. You can get good name-brand rotors for $33 a piece IIRC.

[djjerme]

A lot of the PRO3 cars for both sprints and enduros run PFC or HT10's on cheap rotors with no problems. Though recently, many have started seeing cracks appearing unusually frequently on Brembo rotors - which has lead to many trying other non-name brands to great success.

[dinanm3atl]

A lot of the PRO3 cars for both sprints and enduros run PFC or HT10's on cheap rotors with no problems. Though recently, many have started seeing cracks appearing unusually frequently on Brembo rotors - which has lead to many trying other non-name brands to great success.

Yup. Brembo rotors have always been hit or miss with me.

[NigelStu]

I'm guessing this is a cross-post to the thread on ChumpCar?

We intended to run Centrix Cryo-treated for the Nelson's 25 hour, but after the wheel stud failure took out the left front rotor, we ended up running on Centrix 'premium' rotors, picked up from Rockauto for 25ish a piece.

Cobalt Friction XR2 front brake pads. No real ducting.

We had NO brake issues - nice smooth brakes entire race, with plenty of meat left in the pads.


If you are interested, I am a dealer for the Cobalts - ChumpCar teams get a nice discount on pads.


You might also want to look into your calipers a bit - if there is a lot of slop in the pins/bushing, or something is sticking/not releasing, it may be creating more heat or uneven wear and creating a warped condition. We put in the brass bushings / pins.

[djjerme]

^^ that should be a given on any track E30, those bushing/pins cause all sorts of fun!

We ran a eta at Thunderhill 25hr last year on PFC's that had a couple sprint races, with (IIRC) Centrix "premium" rotors, and no issues at all. Course the eta is more of a momentum car than a 325i...