Getting my car ready for next season...

[Bimmerfanatik]

OK, so I've never done a driving school, or any autox time, but come spring, I really want to go balls out and get as much time in as I can.

My track bitch is an 87 325es, with a VERY smooth engine, no rust, and a clean body.

I've got a JimC chip for it, a set of 400/600 GC's, and more bottlecaps than you can shake a stick at.

First off - before anyone goes down the road of "just drive a stock car and learn on that," the car is already taken apart. I want to build a car that I can handle as a novice, but will also not hold me back once I get some seat time.

That said, this is a track only car - I've got the vert for a daily. So the 400/600 will only be for the track. I don't need to worry about the car being noisy, or not streetable.

I need to pick out a nice set of shocks and struts to go along with the GC's - some have said Koni SA's are the only way to go, others say revalved bil sports will do a better job.

Next, I sold the 2.93 LSD out of it to a turbo guy, so I need to put another diff in. Since it's a track only car, I considered just throwing a 3.73 LSD in as they're a bit easier to find. Just curious as to thoughts on that, or people in etas using a 3.73 lsd.

I'm also wondering what I should cover under the car - I want to replace all the rubber and whatnot before taking it out there, so what parts should be replaced, and what material should be used? Again, I have to stress this is a track only car - so if urethane or delrin is a better choice, I'd rather put that in than stock rubber.

Lastly - tires. I'd like to know what the cheapest yet most effective 14" tire is around - now that the azenis are more bucks.

Let me know your thoughts on all this. Thanks guys.

[rs4pro3]

with a 3.73 you would have no use of first gear. I'd got for a 3.25 or a 3.45 max. I put a S-3.25 in my 85 eta and you wouldn't believe how much better the cars feel.

[rwh11385]

3.25 lsd. motor mounts (IE), tranny mounts (BW upgraded), a shorter shift lever, UUC or other shift carrier bushing, subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings, stainless steel brake lines, diff mount bushing (m coupe), rear shock mounts.

that's a good list i believe of things to replace if you got it apart. also all things i've done (with a 4.10 instead of 3.25 obviously)

also, new control arms. tie rods. CABs.

[rs4pro3]

I might go stiffer then the M-coupe rear mount, With IE street subframe and urethane trailing arm bushings, and the M-coupe rear cover I'm still get movement in the rear when shifting.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Thanks for the advice so far guys.

I wanted to avoid getting/finding/buying a 3.25 lsd, as they aren't cheap and they're also relatively hard to find. I was hoping I could manage with an easier to find and cheaper 3.73, but it sounds like I may have to buck up and deal.

If I can't get a 3.25, will the 2.93 be THAT bad?

[rwh11385]

If I can't get a 3.25, will the 2.93 be THAT bad?

no, who really gives a fuck? it'll just not be as "fun", i.e. as quick to accelerate, but you in exchange could hold more speed in each gear. no one needs a 4.10 over a 3.73 either. it's just more fun. a 2.93 would be fine.

[PeaveyBassist]

no, who really gives a fuck? it'll just not be as "fun", i.e. as quick to accelerate, but you in exchange could hold more speed in each gear. no one needs a 4.10 over a 3.73 either. it's just more fun. a 2.93 would be fine.

In some cases, the 3.73 would be a better choice than the 4.10. Different tracks require different diff ratios for extremely competitive racing teams. Reason is, tight, twisty tracks - 4.10 diff to accelerate faster out of corners and you wont need as much top end speed. Longer, higher speed tracks - 3.73 diff to get a higher top speed in the straights and hold the speed in longer corners. Thats the basics... there are some exceptions though.

Will

[e9nine]

Diff's are easily swapped. Go with a a 3.73 for now.
I have a set of the Azenis 215s with barely any use. Just one auto-x and no more than 500 miles. They are 195-60-14. PM me if you're interested. I might also have 15 x 7 et27 Koseis for sale if you want to go 15"

[rs4pro3]

I know a few guys with S-3.45's for sale.

[DanGillan]

ill sell ya my cage and harness if you need it. PM me

[JRKOUPE]

.....you dont mention camber plates........


try to get like neg 3 degrees...YOU WILL LOVE IT>

I just did all you are doing this yr to my i.......also consider the Koni SA's......w/ top adjustment. Twist em down for ride home....call GC

[JRKOUPE]

e9nine...

e9nine.......

pm 'd you.

[Mystikal]

Vulcantire has some 14" RT-215s, looks like the final shipment. $47/ea.

[TIATO]

Ok, lets take a few steps back. You have never participated in an autocross or track event.

Dont worry about performance modifications just yet. Instead focus on making the car mechanically reliable and safe: Brakes, fluids, alignment, check or replace all wear items, decent street tires. Also instead of modifications, focus on safety equipment - helmet, gloves, shoes.

In my mind those are the two cardinal rules:

Mechanical Reliability
Driver Safety

Once you got those two areas covered, take the car to the rack in stock form. Get to know it. Feel how it behaves, what you like, dont like. In other words, get a baseline. Do this for the first few events. You will be surprised how capable these cars are in stock form. Develop basic driving skills and confidence.

Once you know your cars track manners, and after knowing your driving weaknesses and have improved upon them, then work on improving the cars weaknesses.

When you do upgrade, do one modification at a time so you learn what each change does and how it feels. This also makes it easier to diagnose problems associated with modifications or resultant handling issues you are exposed to only one variable at a time.

Spend your money on maintenance, safety and gaining track experience. If you dont have to worry about your car and safety, then learning will be easier because you can give 100% of your attention to driving.

Skills make you a better driver, not mods.

[Dave]

Ok, lets take a few steps back. You have never participated in an autocross or track event.

Dont worry about performance modifications just yet. Instead focus on making the car mechanically reliable and safe: Brakes, fluids, alignment, check or replace all wear items, decent street tires. Also instead of modifications, focus on safety equipment - helmet, gloves, shoes.

In my mind those are the two cardinal rules:

Mechanical Reliability
Driver Safety

Once you got those two areas covered, take the car to the rack in stock form. Get to know it. Feel how it behaves, what you like, dont like. In other words, get a baseline. Do this for the first few events. You will be surprised how capable these cars are in stock form. Develop basic driving skills and confidence.

Once you know your cars track manners, and after knowing your driving weaknesses and have improved upon them, then work on improving the cars weaknesses.

When you do upgrade, do one modification at a time so you learn what each change does and how it feels. This also makes it easier to diagnose problems associated with modifications or resultant handling issues you are exposed to only one variable at a time.

Spend your money on maintenance, safety and gaining track experience. If you dont have to worry about your car and safety, then learning will be easier because you can give 100% of your attention to driving.

Skills make you a better driver, not mods.

Good advice, but I'd add that I have things that need to be replaced anyway and I am going to go ahead and upgrade.

Just expect that the ultimate upgrade will be the fool in the seat. I am making a number of suspension upgrades to my car. However, just about every piece needs to be replaced anyway, so I am uprating just about everything. I know that it will be a very long time before I as a driver will be able to push it to its limit.

If it stock, and it isn't broken or worn out, dont feel compelled to go FUH RAZE. Not necessary.