Soft pedal after almost every track day

[ForcedFirebird]

Turns them reuses them turns them until they can no longer be safely turned anymore. Not turning them out of spec and using them.

Correct.

[tinkerputzer]

Turns them reuses them turns them until they can no longer be safely turned anymore. Not turning them out of spec and using them.

[Earendil]

Rotors that have been turned several times, [...] then have the machinist down the street turn them until they are out of spec.

Until they are out of spec? Why?

[ForcedFirebird]

What brand rotors are you running with those pads and are you running any ducting?

Rotors that have been turned several times, zero brake ducts, backing plates still on. I keep all the used rotors from cars that come in the shop when the client wants new, then have the machinist down the street turn them until they are out of spec.

[2mAn]

Great thread! Tyler Id start with the ducting as that seems to be something you would want no matter what brakes you have. I was planning on using dryer ducting from behind the factory vents, but Im curious now what you guys would recommend? Any good DIYs?

[tinkerputzer]

Measure them after every track weekend. Average 1mm consumed per ~6hrs of track time (we do 4-6 20-30min sessions/day depending on sanction). Considering they are $135/axle, can't beat them with a stick as far as I'm concerned. Everyone who takes my car out comments on how good the brakes feel and they are all running dtc70. I have yet to crack a rotor with them. I warped one rotor last weekend, but believe that's because I got a flat and didn't cool down. Actually came in an access road as to not block traffic and went straight to cold pit. Parked where the hot pads sat on the rotor until the wheel was cool enough to take off to change the tire.

What brand rotors are you running with those pads and are you running any ducting?

[Massive Lee]

Brake fluids will not fix rotor/pads/braking technique/cooling problems.

Also, so-called performance fluids may require more frequent flush because they are designed for comp, and that means flush every event. Brake fluid is highly hygroscopic. Some, more than others.

[berlow94]

What's your guys experience with Torque RT700 fluid vs. the super blue and motul?


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[SGT4677]

This has been a very interesting discussion to me and you guys have made some good observations, with that said I was at the same track day as OP with a very similar car and the exact same brake setup, only we were doubled up, running every other session.

I always get some brake pedal fade but I didn't experience pad fade until the last session when I lost braking at the end of turn 3A,fortunatly I had already bled off enough speed to avoid a serious off.
I also have an E30 racecar with proper cooling ducts. I don't experience pedal fade in that car nearly as much as in the street car even though I drive it much harder.


IMO at Pacific you will use less brake as you gain experience, even though your speed increases. In 2 for example you will start to brake later and harder for a shorter time and your entry speed will increase as you gain experience. I know a lot of people in really fast cars who have been humbled by a certain 318is because the driver is so smooth and he doesn't need to use a lot of brake.

[nrubenstein]

Measure them after every track weekend. Average 1mm consumed per ~6hrs of track time (we do 4-6 20-30min sessions/day depending on sanction). Considering they are $135/axle, can't beat them with a stick as far as I'm concerned. Everyone who takes my car out comments on how good the brakes feel and they are all running dtc70. I have yet to crack a rotor with them. I warped one rotor last weekend, but believe that's because I got a flat and didn't cool down. Actually came in an access road as to not block traffic and went straight to cold pit. Parked where the hot pads sat on the rotor until the wheel was cool enough to take off to change the tire.

Glad they have improved then. I was getting two days out of every set. They were cheap, but not that cheap. Switching to PFC changed everything.

I also tried the DTC70s. Good braking, but holy shit was that rotor scary. I wish I could find a picture of it.

[ForcedFirebird]

For you guys still using Superblue/Typ 200, jesus, just upgrade your fluid already.

Switched over to Motul RBF600 years ago, haven't had a single issue with pedal fade since.

-Charlie

Almost the entire se30 field down here uses ATE, even in the enduro races.

Blue/ATE200
Dry boiling 536*f
Wet boiling 396*f

Motul 600
Dry boiling 594*f
Wet boiling 401*f

The Motul attracts more moisture, hence the lower wet boiling and more frequent changes over ATE. I have been running Motul 660 lately, only because my local supplier carries it.

Motul 660
Dry boiling 617*f
Wet boiling 400*f

[Charlie]

For you guys still using Superblue/Typ 200, jesus, just upgrade your fluid already.

Switched over to Motul RBF600 years ago, haven't had a single issue with pedal fade since.

-Charlie

[ForcedFirebird]

IIRC, I tried the XP9, 10, and 12, and had problems with excessive wear on all of them. In my experience, PFC pads are worth the price premium on wear alone. I save money running them AND I prefer the braking performance too.

Measure them after every track weekend. Average 1mm consumed per ~6hrs of track time (we do 4-6 20-30min sessions/day depending on sanction). Considering they are $135/axle, can't beat them with a stick as far as I'm concerned. Everyone who takes my car out comments on how good the brakes feel and they are all running dtc70. I have yet to crack a rotor with them. I warped one rotor last weekend, but believe that's because I got a flat and didn't cool down. Actually came in an access road as to not block traffic and went straight to cold pit. Parked where the hot pads sat on the rotor until the wheel was cool enough to take off to change the tire.

[nrubenstein]

This. I have been using Carbotech XP16 and love them.

IIRC, I tried the XP9, 10, and 12, and had problems with excessive wear on all of them. In my experience, PFC pads are worth the price premium on wear alone. I save money running them AND I prefer the braking performance too.

[ForcedFirebird]

The problem with the HP+ is that they go from 100%-0% with next no warning. Brake torque just falls off a cliff.

Track pads will provide both meaningfully more brake torque, and meaningfully more heat resistance. That said, obviously you haven't exceeded the heat limit of the HP+ because you aren't terrified.

This. I have been using Carbotech XP16 and love them.