Here's one from Sunday. There's a few mistakes but it was good for 2nd fastest raw time I believe.
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Originally posted by MINIz guy View PostWell, had a guy from the SEB answer my inquiry. Weld on tabs not allowed. Eccentric bushings are allowed.
Now to se what I want to do... Not like this car will ever go to nationals. It won't ever raise suspicion locally either. :D
Even things like poly bushings and strut braces don't make THAT much of a difference on most cars, but when you have people competing at a national level often separated by tenths, even thousands of a second they have to be very specific and very picky about upgrades and modifications... even though it ultimately comes down to things like braking that tenth later and clipping the cones that inch closer than the next guy...
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Originally posted by tinkerputzer View PostWow that sure makes it sound like it is allowed. You may want to check with someone more knowledgeable than me on the rules though. I don't think it will give an unfair advantage since most all the other cars in the class already have a means of adjusting rear alignment.
Now to se what I want to do... Not like this car will ever go to nationals. It won't ever raise suspicion locally either. :D
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Originally posted by Lof8 View PostRallycross Miata allowed?
Not sure why the videos not coming up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cavMx-zU6RE
That looks fantastically fun dude. I'm jealous.
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Rallycross Miata allowed?
Not sure why the videos not coming up
Last edited by Lof8; 08-14-2014, 06:35 AM.
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I wonder, if no slotted adjusters are legal, how would they feel about a conveniently bent subframe? "Oops I have zero toe and 5 degrees of camber, guess it was in a wreck, wink wink"
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Originally posted by MINIz guy View PostI think that applies to E36 models.
Originally posted by MINIz guy View PostSince the eccentric tabs are part of the locating links, does that mean I can weld them on and use them? It is "modifying" them, correct?
Originally posted by MINIz guy View PostI only ask since I have .1+ degrees of toe in with ~2 degrees of camber, and that destroys my tires. It would help to have 0 toe and ~2 degrees of camber, which could be easily done with the tabs. I also think the tabs are less prone to loosening than the eccentric bushings when you use locking washers such as Nord-locks.
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Originally posted by Section 14.8.H.11. On double/unequal arm (e.g., wishbone, multi-link) suspensions, only the upper arms OR lower arms may be modified or replaced, but not both. Non-integral longitudinal arms that primarily control fore/aft wheel movement (e.g., trailing arm(s) or link(s) of a multilink suspension) may not be replaced, changed, or modified.
Note: Many modern suspension designs known by other names, actually function as double A-arm designs. These include the rear suspensions on 1988-on Honda Civic/Integra, Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge Neon, BMW E36, and most “multi-link” and are covered by Section 14.8.H.1.
Originally posted by Section 14.8.H.33. On swing or trailing arm suspensions, the main arms may not be modified or replaced, but lateral locating links/arms may be modified or replaced.
I only ask since I have .1+ degrees of toe in with ~2 degrees of camber, and that destroys my tires. It would help to have 0 toe and ~2 degrees of camber, which could be easily done with the tabs. I also think the tabs are less prone to loosening than the eccentric bushings when you use locking washers such as Nord-locks.
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Originally posted by MINIz guy View PostThanks! I've read the rules and know I can go with poly. I'm just worried about my toe and don't like eccentric bushings since I've read that they lose adjustment. I'd rather weld in slotted adjusters, but the rule I'm not sure about is Section 14.1.H.8 (I think) where it talks about trailing arm suspensions. It says locators can be modified, so does that mean that I can weld in slotted adjusters?
On swing or trailing arm suspensions, the main arms may not be
modified or replaced, but lateral locating links/arms may be modified
or replaced.
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Originally posted by tinkerputzer View PostWelcome, you've come to the right place. I've not had a chance to watch the video yet but iirc stx allows you to replace oe rubber bushings with polly as long as they are dimensionally identical (not offset).
I've really caught the autox bug with my 318. I did it on/off with an E39 M5, but it was never fun nor reliable enough to do more. This 318 is super cheap to run on my college budget and is tons of fun. I won't ever be competitive in STX, but I can at least try.
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Originally posted by Bullet Ride View PostLMFAO... talk about slow learners.
This is a great example of what happens when you spend an "entire ROOKIE year at the track" without any proper instruction... you just make the same mistakes over and over and over.
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Originally posted by MINIz guy View PostI don't post much but I should since I basically have a very heavy E30. I've been driving a minimally prepped STX 318ti the past year. Only done 7 events with the car in various states of prep so I'm still learning it.
My rear subframe bushings have major cracks in them. My RTABs are also gone since my toe L/R is 0.22/0.08 and really messing with my tire wear. I gotta see how I can fix that while still staying within STX rules.Last edited by tinkerputzer; 08-12-2014, 09:40 AM.
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