Drift car wiring questions

[Wanganstyle]

Cells with foam can still slosh.
Pickup basket still has to physically have enough fuel inside for the pump to suck up.

If one desires 0 fuel surge then a surge tank is needed.

FIA rated full cell (fuelsafe) will be safest for impact; external pumps die faster than internal but are faster to change.

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[IronFreak]

Trunk is a bad spot for a cell for 2 reasons..

Your gonna get fuel slosh and upset balance.

The trunk is a crumple zone, without a lot of reinforcement it's simply not safe. It's been proven time and time again the stock location for the tank is the best.

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But............you also have knotheads like me that do crazy stuff to their chassis before talking to people like you and now.....are going with a cell because I had to much fun with a grinder and welder.

I will say for fuel slosh, I ordered a cell that is foam filled to eliminate the majority of it, and I kept the tank on the smaller side as well. I also opted with the rear drop sump setup. As far a crumple zone, I have a few ideas.....you know because of the grinders and welders I have access to to beef up the area for added protection.

We all know that Unloadedak will be staring at my tail panel a lot so we got to protect ourselves from his possible over zealous antics.......


I think a switch panel like this makes sense if that car has been stripped to nothing, why spend the extra time tossing wires back in that you;re not going to need.

[FLG]

Thanks bud.. Following now too.

Got lots of 240 friends with kats as well.


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[squidmaster]

i was just on your site lol. i want a shirt but has no monies :(

take your time, this car won't be running for atleast a year.

Lol no problem :)

Squid what's your site and what kinds of stuff? Lol always like new things

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Sssquid.com

I post teasers on my IG! "Sssquid"
:)

[FLG]

Give me two months and you'll have a not OEM gas gauge (plus a lot more)

Squid what's your site and what kinds of stuff? Lol always like new things

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[unloadedak]

i was just on your site lol. i want a shirt but has no monies :(

take your time, this car won't be running for atleast a year.

[squidmaster]

Give me two months and you'll have a not OEM gas gauge (plus a lot more)

[unloadedak]

I'm sure there are gauges out there you can make work. I'm on my phone so don't feel like searching around on it Atm but I'm sure a Google search of "aftermarket fuel gauge e30" or similar keywords will give you some results.

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yeah i did that a couple weeks ago. only thing that spec guys have said is one programmable gauge. where you choose ohm outputs. i'll look more then. thanks

[FLG]

Exactly why I don't want to run a cell.....

Any ideas on how to know how much fuel I have in my tank without an oem gauge?

I want to keep oem tank but don't want to have the hassle of never knowing what is in it.

I'm sure there are gauges out there you can make work. I'm on my phone so don't feel like searching around on it Atm but I'm sure a Google search of "aftermarket fuel gauge e30" or similar keywords will give you some results.

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[unloadedak]

Trunk is a bad spot for a cell for 2 reasons..

Your gonna get fuel slosh and upset balance.

The trunk is a crumple zone, without a lot of reinforcement it's simply not safe. It's been proven time and time again the stock location for the tank is the best.

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Exactly why I don't want to run a cell.....

Any ideas on how to know how much fuel I have in my tank without an oem gauge?

I want to keep oem tank but don't want to have the hassle of never knowing what is in it.

[FLG]

Trunk is a bad spot for a cell for 2 reasons..

Your gonna get fuel slosh and upset balance.

The trunk is a crumple zone, without a lot of reinforcement it's simply not safe. It's been proven time and time again the stock location for the tank is the best.

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[unloadedak]

I've been preparing and planning how to use that exact panel in my obd1 s52 track build.

Here is my idea so far:

1. Starter
2. Ignition
3. Fuel
4. Fuel (if i run oem tank setup with dual, won't need this if fuel cell)
5. Fan
6. Headlights
7. Wiper
8.

Issues I can think of in my situation;

Turn signals: Looking through the ETM I think I can make the oem signal stalk and relay work.

Fuel level: Finding aftermarket fuel gauge in our ohm range is impossible, so i'm thinking fuel cell since my trunk already has a big square cut out.

Brake lights: Will wire em up using the oem harness and pedal switch, just supply 12v to it from a distribution block with switched 12v.

subbed for more info, i've never bare wired a racecar and only info i can find online is like camaro and gm guys.

[JFarhanbod]

I'm doing the same thing in my e24 but I'm keeping a couple more things. I'm going with the EZ Wiring kit. At < $200 its a no brainer.

Only thing that has me hung up is the c101 connector, do i just wire the fuel pump, starter, alt and ignition wires to the new harness? Is that enough to get it running properly? Then pull the tach signal and run it to an aftermarket tach

Plans are to switch to megasquirt once i go turbo but i would like to get it running on the stock dme first

[CrisMac]

I would keep the power steering, just saying. I've driven with it and without it, having it definitely makes transitions and steering input a lot easier!

Nice, I will take into account when I'm putting everything back together. Iv slid around without power steering before, but not in a E30. I would assume since Im completely gutted, one seat, Tubular front end and with s52 swap It shouldn't be so bad. but then again I haven't driven it yet. Ill keep it around just in case.

Agree with the above statements.

To add my own, why bother do all this work?

Dont get me wrong ive thought about this on my car, its rarely street driven other then driving to and from events, but then i just say..whats the point? I understand shaving weight on a track car is critical because every second counts, i just dont see the benefit as much on a drift car. Granted there is a balance of course, and being light does help...but i cant see it being AS much of an impact on things.

Assuming your car is working fine as is with no electrical issues, why bother with the hours of work and money this is gonna take only to eliminate some of the non essential wiring, the question for me is, in the end how will it positively impact your driving?

Im not knocking anything and i think if i had the extra time and spare cash id probably do this myself. But i feel if you can take this time and money and put it towards something more beneficial, i would go that route. If everything else is kosher and this is just an add on, then more power to ya.

Very good points man. The only reason I am thinking about rewiring and deleting the entire old fuze box is because I have not begun to wire the motor up to the car yet.

I also feel that sine wiring/electrical is one of my weak points when it comes to cars this is the perfect time to actually LEARN. ( Not without supervision from my brother who is a genius with electrical in vehicles, I won't be just dead in the water).

This project is for ease of access, Knowledge of wiring/electrical attributes, and simplicity in design and routing. Im not concerned about weight, saving time or money. Knowledge isn't always free, and this is my opportunity to learn from a good stand point so I'm going for it.

what's a fuze?

you're going to spend hundreds of dollars and hours and hours of time so you can avoid spending ~$200 on re-pinning your harness to plug into the body? huh?

I always say "get what you want, so you don't regret what you got"

I want to do this, I understand the cost, and the time it takes. Isn't that the whole reason we love cars anyways? Spend all of our time and money on our projects just for 5 minutes of fun then do it all over again when it breaks?

"Build. Break. Destroy" is my motto.

[Wanganstyle]

We used Longacre racing products wiring for tail lamps and for fuel pump power.
Longacre racing kill / push button start.

Made a fuse pannel and switch junction pannel for toggles.

we have only a few switches; most important one is the battery KILL. Any wheel to wheel racing will require a Kill; read on sanctioning body rules for the specifics.

I'm not sure drifting counts as wheel to wheel "racing" but there is contact - I would install a Kill.



No fusebox under the hood; it had some melted circuits from a O2 harness burning on dp and had to go.

"m50" engine harness is 100% intact; X20 has 2 wires connected going into the body

Battery put in sealed marine box and relocated to passenger seat area.

Is it more reliable than stock? Not in rain.