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'85 318i SCCA ITB Buildup - Feedback?

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    '85 318i SCCA ITB Buildup - Feedback?

    After the death of my e21, following 5 successful years on the track (3 enduro championships), I have decided to build an early 318i and continue racing in ITB (fun group of guys).

    I was giving a free 1985 car (owner lost the title) and have stripped it to the shell. I am currently in the process of sandblasting it (in, out, and under). After a coat of POR-15 and paint, the buildup will begin.

    Carryovers: Cage, Fuel Cell, Camber Plates, Quickrelease steering wheel, and seat.

    I have questions, but first let me tell you that I will be running a welded 3.9, 4.10, and 4.25 diff. I've found in the past that I didn't need the rear sway bar on the e21, and got used to the handling of a locked rear. I have come to this board because helpful past threads in these forums have kept my 88ix and my '82e21 alive. Also, googling 318i race prep has proved there isn't much out there for these cars, so here goes:

    1. Solid Aluminum Subframe Bushings or Poly?
    2. I've heard good things about the Powerflex Bushings. Any users out there with feedback for the control arms, trailing arms, or subframe?
    3. I was given a pair of spherical control arm bearings. Feedback?
    4. Any leads on "inexpensive" stainless steel brake lines?
    5. Coilover Brands : likes/dislikes/prices?
    6. Spring Rates and Preferred Brands: Front and Rear?
    7. Any other feedback, suggestions, web links, sources of info?
    8. ECU – adjust existing or DIY ie. “Megasquirt” ?

    Thanks everyone.

    #2
    Originally posted by StoneCold
    After the death of my e21, following 5 successful years on the track (3 enduro championships), I have decided to build an early 318i and continue racing in ITB (fun group of guys).

    I was giving a free 1985 car (owner lost the title) and have stripped it to the shell. I am currently in the process of sandblasting it (in, out, and under). After a coat of POR-15 and paint, the buildup will begin.

    Carryovers: Cage, Fuel Cell, Camber Plates, Quickrelease steering wheel, and seat.

    I have questions, but first let me tell you that I will be running a welded 3.9, 4.10, and 4.25 diff. I've found in the past that I didn't need the rear sway bar on the e21, and got used to the handling of a locked rear. I have come to this board because helpful past threads in these forums have kept my 88ix and my '82e21 alive. Also, googling 318i race prep has proved there isn't much out there for these cars, so here goes:

    1. Solid Aluminum Subframe Bushings or Poly?
    2. I've heard good things about the Powerflex Bushings. Any users out there with feedback for the control arms, trailing arms, or subframe?
    3. I was given a pair of spherical control arm bearings. Feedback?
    4. Any leads on "inexpensive" stainless steel brake lines?
    5. Coilover Brands : likes/dislikes/prices?
    6. Spring Rates and Preferred Brands: Front and Rear?
    7. Any other feedback, suggestions, web links, sources of info?
    8. ECU – adjust existing or DIY ie. “Megasquirt” ?

    Thanks everyone.
    Keep in mind that to use a different ECU you have to the OEM ECU housing and you can't alter the connection to the wiring harness or add extra wires or sensors.

    A full Ground Control coilover kit costs somewhere in the neighborhood of $1500. They're fairly popular, but one thing people dislike about them is that their support is somewhat iffy.

    Never heard anything bad about Powerflex. The only other manufacturer of subframe mounts and trailing arm bushings I know of is Ireland Engineering. A lot cheaper, but make sure they're in stock before you order with them. I ordered a set of their "street" bushings and they were listed as being in stock when I ordered, but 6 weeks later they still hadn't came, so I cancelled the order.


    My fast says: traction control is for the faint of heart :evil:

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Scott314
      A full Ground Control coilover kit costs somewhere in the neighborhood of $1500. They're fairly popular, but one thing people dislike about them is that their support is somewhat iffy.
      Order from Mpactmotorsports. They are awesome.

      Comment


        #4
        Seems like you are on track. For suspension however, you want to go with something that meets the rules and will have the durability for your application. As you are probably already aware, the advantage of coilovers are the ease with which you can swap rates. You can always get used springs for cheap too esp. if they are high rates. If you do go with Ground Controls - I might have a set of used rear springs which could benefit you.I know of one guy who runs an m10 in ITB here. I'll try see if I can get his e-mail for you and PM your way!

        I'd suggest you call up Ireland Engineering or the likes to get some input from them as well on your intentions. I am not aware of anyone directly on this forum running ITB in an m10. Most people here consider the m10 the least desirable e30.

        I have almost thought of doing likewise when I ever get a race license as the cost of acquistion and running maintenance on an m10 versus the other cars is rather awesome and depending on your region, your competition is often interesting. Rear Drum Brakes rule :pimp:

        Please don't go "inexpensive" with SS lines. Get DOT approved lines or get Ireland Engineering lines. The $5 savings aren't really worth it IMO. I have a set of new IE SS lines; if you're interested in them, PM me.

        G.luck!

        Comment


          #5
          What exactly are you blasting the chassis with?

          Careful not to overheat and warp the sheet metal.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by e9nine
            Please don't go "inexpensive" with SS lines. Get DOT approved lines or get Ireland Engineering lines. The $5 savings aren't really worth it IMO. I have a set of new IE SS lines; if you're interested in them, PM me.

            G.luck!
            One thing I would add is that if you're going with SS brake lines, get ones that have some kind of coating for abrasion resistance. I know the UUC ones are coated (I think with teflon). I can't remember offhand if IE's are coated or not.


            My fast says: traction control is for the faint of heart :evil:

            Comment

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