help setting up booster delete and retain ABS

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Following up to add some closure. Still liking the 20/20 very much. I bled the brakes again after an autox and got quite a bit more air out of the system yielding a very consistent pedal feel and travel. Now it's all up to pad selection.

Regarding speed bleeders - they are not available for the wilwood calipers (wilwood calipers use a brass bushing with a tiny bleeder inside of it to avoid wearing out the threads int he caliper), but I did install them in the rear - awesome.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Still like the 20/20? All working good?

Yup! Works well so far. It really shines in the aggressive driving when the brakes have some heat in them.

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[Jaker]

Still like the 20/20? All working good?

[Sh3rpak!ng]

If you haven't yet, buy a set of speed bleeders. Worth every penny.

On the list. Ill swap them next time I bleed. Thanks!

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[e30_302]

If you haven't yet, buy a set of speed bleeders. Worth every penny.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

20/20 MC feels great. Got a little more travel, and a little less effort. It's very nice. I think this is the final solution for me. I bet it could use a little more bleeding after my hasty MC swap saturday.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

What application is the 20/20 and is it aluminum or cast iron?

Cast iron. It was actually listed (realoem) right under the PN for the 17/22 MC that was originally in the car. So I guess the application would be a 325i, though I never knew them to have that MC... kinda doesn't make sense.

Also, the price for a new ate unit was like $170 at bmaparts so I decided to go with a cardone rebuilt unit from NAPA for ~70. Then the guy at NAPA mentioned that a new NAPA branded one was cheaper with a lifetime warranty so I thought what the heck, I'll give it a try. Opened the box to find a genuine ate unit :) $65, with 10% AAA parts discount (didnt know there was one), it came to $58. SCORE

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[Sh3rpak!ng]

I think a 19mm would be about right for a street car. For a track car, it's a little squishy.

I'm hoping the 20/20 proves to be a nice middle ground between the 19 and 22. I just want a little bit more pedal travel and a little less effort than I have now. I bet the 22 would be better for a bigger guy, I'm only 135 lbs lol.

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[Jaker]

What application is the 20/20 and is it aluminum or cast iron?

[e30_302]

I think a 19mm would be about right for a street car. For a track car, it's a little squishy.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Switch back yet??? [emoji14] I wanna know what the feel's like with the 19mm before I do my delete.

Nope, but I found an oem bmw 20/20 ate MC and its on my bench. Planning to swap that in tonight and see how it feels. After doing som spirited driving with the 22/22 its not so bad, just requires a bit of force. Kinda hard to heal toe. Also got ABS working and it feels great.

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[Jaker]

Switch back yet??? :p I wanna know what the feel's like with the 19mm before I do my delete.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Success. All is well. Since the only thing that changed between now and before was the MC, I think there mightve been air trapped in the 19/19. I did the simplest pedal pushing bleed without a spotter, until I didnt see any bubbles in the clear tube off the caliper. Im thinking the difference was bench bleeding the MC prior to install.

Quick impression is that the pedal is very firm. I bet the 19/19 (if I had gotten it to work) wouldve been the best feel. I might still switch back, but for now I have brakes :)

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[TobyB]

Wow- well, with the 17 in back, then you MIGHT have needed the bias valve.

t

[Jaker]

Bleeding successful? I also will be installing the Massive delete kit on my E36 and I'm very interested in the outcome of your troubleshooting. I too have Wilwood 4 piston Dynalites but with 1.75" pistons and I'd planned for a 19mm master.

On another note, did you use a powerbleeder of some sort or did you use the old fashioned "pump the pedal, crack the bleed screw" method?