Going to gut my E30

[matt]

The black ones you have in your car currently?? Will they work when I get a harness bar in the E36 when I buy one?

No, they are for stock cars to bolt to the rear seat belt mounts.

[kendogg]

Ya, the defroster doesn't work anyways. I wasn't really planning on removing wires, thats too much of a PIA, especially if I or anybody else ever wants to put anything back in the car again.

[Scott///M]

One more tip: If you get around to pulling wires or deleting switches... leave your defrost switch and wire. You can use the wires that connect to the window to power a cool suit. Saves you money on the cool suit and gives you a very stock looking switch that's also very nicely placed.

[kendogg]

Ken, I have a couple harnesses you can have in exchange for a little car help if you want. Schroth Rally 3s.

The black ones you have in your car currently?? Will they work when I get a harness bar in the E36 when I buy one?

[matt]

Ken, I have a couple harnesses you can have in exchange for a little car help if you want. Schroth Rally 3s.

[kishg]

ah, misread and thought you said nonsports. sports work well for a while (my mechanism broke and it "leaned" and then after I upgraded to a recaro I noticed steering was easier than before with the stock sport).

but the cg-lock makes it a lot easier to get buckled in and ready to go, and your chest belt is free to move as you steer while your lap is held tight and your body is in place. just a cheap replacement to locking the belt on the grid

+10 for cg-lock.

[rwh11385]

ah, misread and thought you said nonsports. sports work well for a while (my mechanism broke and it "leaned" and then after I upgraded to a recaro I noticed steering was easier than before with the stock sport).

but the cg-lock makes it a lot easier to get buckled in and ready to go, and your chest belt is free to move as you steer while your lap is held tight and your body is in place. just a cheap replacement to locking the belt on the grid

[kendogg]

He means buy a racing seat and if you still want to use the stock belts, add on the CG-Lock to them. It helps.

http://www.cg-lock.com/

-Erik

Hmm. Never seen this before. I always tighten the belt as tight as possible to lock it into place anyways, I am never bracing myself against anything with the stock sport seats. Granted, racing seats would be better, but thats not the object of what I'm trying to do. I'm trying to spend $0 to get a little more speed out of this car via weight loss before I upgrade cars, thats it. Nothing more, nothing less.

[erik325i]

I'm not sure what you mean.

He means buy a racing seat and if you still want to use the stock belts, add on the CG-Lock to them. It helps.

http://www.cg-lock.com/

-Erik

[kendogg]

It's much easier to drive faster if you are not trying to brace yourself against the center console or door with your legs. Just think about a cheap Corbeau reclinable, or even stock sport seat to hold you in. And CG-lock makes the stock belts a lot better

I'm not sure what you mean.

[rwh11385]

It's much easier to drive faster if you are not trying to brace yourself against the center console or door with your legs. Just think about a cheap Corbeau reclinable, or even stock sport seat to hold you in. And CG-lock makes the stock belts a lot better

[kendogg]

While freezing temps do make it easier than normal. Heat, is by far a better way to remove all the goo.

After weighing my car at a race in June (95º +), I discovered my car was 50 lbs over weight. So I popped open the trunk and in less than 3 minutes I had the sound deadening removed from the trunk. Wiped it down with some 3M adhesive remover and the job was done.

Total time... less than 10 minutes



Are you removing the stereo?

If so, there are several items you can remove from the trunk. There's an amp and antenna motor (if equipped)

If you install harnesses (which I hope you are) you can remove all the old belts.

Be very cautious about cutting wires. The weight savings is minimal so I suggest you leave them in. However... if you are like me and don't always take peoples advice, be sure you know where everything begin and ends before you cut it.

Label all wires.

There are some wires that run through that amp in the rear that have nothing to do with audio. If I remember correctly, they are part of your brake lights or reverse lights? :roll:

If you are removing the center console, you'll need to relocate you window switches. They can go where the speaker dial, hazard, ac and defrost buttons used to go. In order to get the passenger switch to reach that far, you will need to lengthen the wire. If you delete the window lock switch, you will need to do a wiring bypass to close that circuit.

You may try looking for additional info in the "Preparing to Participate" section of the Spec E30 board.

Good Luck

The car doesn't have any radio in it. I haven't taken a look yet to see if there are even speakers in the car. It's a non-amp'd setup, the car was a base model '86 325. No hi-fi sound, no power sunroof, no cruise, etc. I haven't decided yet if I want to go removing wiring or not.

I'm not installing harnesses because at the moment, I'm running stock cloth sport seats. If infact I do buy seats for this car, then yes, I'll buy a harness bar and harnesses.

I do plan on removing the center console, but I plan on just zip-tying the power window switches in place somewhere close to where they are at stock. I'm sure I can find a suitable location that will keep them out of the way, and secured in place. And yes, believe me, I know all about the power window circuit breaker :) I'm thinking I will relocate the check control panel to somewhere in the dash, either near the radio location, or possibly right under there. Since I'll be removing the headliner, I don't want to keep that stupid thing up there, might as well put it somewhere useful. A friend has his zip-tied to rollcage, but alas, I don't have one of those :)

Thanks for the tips though!!!

[Scott///M]

I find it a lot easier to get the sound deadening off in the cold. When cold enough judicious use of an air chisel will strip the car in no time. It only took about 2 hours to remove all of that tar in 30'ish weather.

While freezing temps do make it easier than normal. Heat, is by far a better way to remove all the goo.

After weighing my car at a race in June (95º +), I discovered my car was 50 lbs over weight. So I popped open the trunk and in less than 3 minutes I had the sound deadening removed from the trunk. Wiped it down with some 3M adhesive remover and the job was done.

Total time... less than 10 minutes

Sorry, I tried a half dozen different search terms, but I couldn't find much. Planning on gutting my E30 in the next month or so. Looking for some idea's on what I can look for to remove from the car. The following list is what I've come up with so far:

trunk tar
carpet
rear sears
rear parcel shelf
A/B/C pillar trim
headliner
door panels
center console


What else is there?? Is there any sound deadener inside the doors I can get out?? Not sure if I feel like taking out the dash, but if I do, I'll pull the A/C condenser as well. All the front A/C stuff is already gone.

Can I remove the rear window regulators and somehow keep the rear windows up without worrying about them falling somehow?? Neither work anyways, and somebody was nice enough to silicone one shut before I bough the car anyways. I'd hate to do that to the other one, but it is a possibility. How much weight total do you think I can get out of the car and still have no issues driving it on the street (I'm not going to entertain idea's like cutting open the doors, etc., the car isn't caged). Thanks guys!!!

Are you removing the stereo?

If so, there are several items you can remove from the trunk. There's an amp and antenna motor (if equipped)

If you install harnesses (which I hope you are) you can remove all the old belts.

Be very cautious about cutting wires. The weight savings is minimal so I suggest you leave them in. However... if you are like me and don't always take peoples advice, be sure you know where everything begin and ends before you cut it.

Label all wires.

There are some wires that run through that amp in the rear that have nothing to do with audio. If I remember correctly, they are part of your brake lights or reverse lights? :roll:

If you are removing the center console, you'll need to relocate you window switches. They can go where the speaker dial, hazard, ac and defrost buttons used to go. In order to get the passenger switch to reach that far, you will need to lengthen the wire. If you delete the window lock switch, you will need to do a wiring bypass to close that circuit.

You may try looking for additional info in the "Preparing to Participate" section of the Spec E30 board.

Good Luck

[Mastrcruse]

Oh I plan on doing more HPDE's, don't you worry. I posted looking for information on what specifically I'm looking to do. I'm about this close from asking a moderator to delete this thread entirely, as I've gotten very, very little information pertaining to the original post, and plenty of OT comments/banter/bitching.

Okay here is the list thus far:

trunk tar
carpet
rear sears
rear parcel shelf
A/B/C pillar trim
headliner
door panels
center console

Glove box
Heater core
Exterior sound deadening in the transmission tunnel
Sunroof componants
1-piece racing seats
Next comes lexan windows, FG bumpers and FG hood/decklid for another drop in weight.

Headliner
Entire sunroof (used the sunroof panel to fill the hole)
Carpet
Glovebox
Door panels and other trim (replaced front panels with AL sheet (protection from flying glass))
Cruise control, module, and wiring
Radio, speakers, amp, and associated wiring
AC compressor, condenser, aux fan, dryer & lines
PS pump
Replaced engine driven fan with 16" 2500cfm electric fan
Trunk lining and tool kit
Spare
All sound deadening in the cabin and trunk
Underhood lining

Umm..theres not much more you can do. Thats basically all the heavy stuff on the car but I can add some. You can start doing fiber glass hoods/fenders but its a street car so you might want to only do FG trunk/hood so you still have the strength for fenders. (I'm not fimiliar w/FG so I am guessing they aren't as strong). There is ample information in this thread but maybe you should reread this thread.
1) cut the radiator support out
2) cut the floorboards out
3) cut the roof off
4) cut the frame from the rear of the rear tire back, and the front of the front tire foward
5) cut the car down the middle
6) get someone to transport it to the local junkyard
7)find new e30, start at #1
8) repeat process until you actually know what the purpose of this car is

[ddavidv]

Ken, I think you took my post for the spirit it was intended. Cool.

Basically - I feel I'm getting close to the limits of the car, and since I can't quite afford to get a E36 and do what I want to it yet, I want to try to squeeze a little bit more performance out of this car for as little money as possible before I upgrade cars entirely.

I was in your EXACT position with my last, pre-BMW car. I simply couldn't drive the thing any faster than it was. I could have done some of the things you talk about and made it marginally quicker, but I didn't. And I still had a hell of a time selling it for anything approaching a decent price. I'm just trying to push my 43 years of worldly experience down your youthful throat so you are ahead of the game when you do go for the faster car. ;)
Yes, there is a world of market out there for E30s of most any description, but with as many guys looking for E30 donors as there are now it just is foolish (to me) to cut yourself out of that market.