IDK, I made the thread thinking that there might at least be a little bit of intelligence here while you were out of town :shrugs
As I've already stated, I didn't start a thread to ask what people thought of my car, or how the FORUM thinks my car should be put together.
I'll say this again, for the final time. The car has been, and will continue to be put together in a manner in which I deem appropriate. It is an autox/HPDE car, but needs the ability to be driven on the street. I could care less if I'm driving a loud, buzzing, stripped car on the street. It bothers me not one ounce. I have no plans of racing this car. I need PLENTY more HPDE experience, and a budget that will actually allow racing, before I even entertain the thought of racing. I plan to upgrade to an E36 once I feel I'm done with this car. Will I put that car together for a desired racing career?? No. By the time I feel I'm ready to race, more than likely I'll need to put a new car together anyways. So STOP with the racing comments.
Mastrcruse - I know exactly what I want. I posted it in the first post of this thread. I never mentioned racing. Please stop assuming I plan on 'racing'. I have another car for a DD. This is my second car, but needs to be able to be street legal to be driven incase something happens to my DD, and I need to daily this E30 for a short period.
asubimmer - Thats funny. Let me know when you go to the track for the fist time, k???
nando - You're a moderator - I suggest you stop calling my car a parts car. My car is a fairly well put together E30. Reliable enough that I've done a full season of autox and 2 HPDE's so far with not a single breakdown, issue, etc. Reliable enough that Matt takes it for a few weeks when his car was down. Is stated before - there are no plans of racing. I don't understand how you can call a reliable track-ready car a 'parts car'. Just because I don't care wtf the Spec-E30 rulebook says doesn't make it a parts car.
And while I'm on this topic - nando, since you are a mod - would you mind cleaning this thread up and deleting the OT posts, so this can be brought back on topic please?? Thanks.
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Uhh kenny has done plenty of track days already with no cage in the car...
Ken- why even start a thread? Just bring it up to the shop and we'll get stripping. I want to adapt the roll bar to the 4-door also.Leave a comment:
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Not trying to seem harsh but it doesn't feel like your really know what you want.
You want to have a "mostly" race directed car but want to keep options of a streetable car? You are going to strip a car, remove things that make it a nice DD but you aren't installing things that are going to make it a competition car? What does that make it? A DD that has no interior and no competition things.Leave a comment:
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Ha air hammer. I remember my dad coming out of the shop to tell me "You are wasting your time with that hammer and chisel, use power tools!" I said no, because the hammer and chisel worked just fine on a car that had been parked outside baking on a 100 degree day.
So he gets the bright idea to grab an air hammer while I am taking a drink break and puts a hole in the trunk of my car. "Oh, I thought the trunk was just a flat panel under that tar..."
Be careful with the air hammer. My dad was an idiot that day.Leave a comment:
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The car is my track rat, and will occasionally be driven on the street. Please don't give me the generic 'pick a racing class' jargon, as I don't care. I'll do what I please with the car. It's worked well enough so far.
I'm going to retain the heater, for obvious reasons. As I stated, if I decide to pull the dash, it'll be only to remove the A/C condenser. I'm not caging the car. I'm not looking into seats at the moment, unless somebody offers a fantastic deal on a used set (like, less than a couple hundred). Also retaining the sunroof. it's a cable version, so it an't be all that heavy, and I like it.
Mike B - Thanks, I didn't know there was sound deadening on the underside of the trans tunnel too.
The car never had cruise, but the ABS doesn't work, and I'm going to remove all sensors, wiring, etc. for that. I need to retain the glovebox as well, mainly for paperwork storage (insurance cards, etc.), but also piece of mind for the DME (I really need to figure out a way to secure that damn thing better - it's currently only hld in place by 2 bolts).
Toolkit is non-existent, so all of that will go, I had forgotten about that, thanks. Anybody have any idea's abou the rear window regulators as I had mentioned??Leave a comment:
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I find it a lot easier to get the sound deadening off in the cold. When cold enough judicious use of an air chisel will strip the car in no time. It only took about 2 hours to remove all of that tar in 30'ish weather.Leave a comment:
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Adhesive and goo.
gutting a car seems to always be done in the winter (for obvious reasons), but all the sound deadening and adhesive comes up a lot easier when it's warm.
Ask santa for a heat gun.Leave a comment:
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I presume this would be to turn the car into a track rat... While you could strip the car and keep it street legal, driving it in that condition on a regular basis will be a very visceral experience (loud and noisy).
If it is to be a track car... Even if you aren't planning on racing the car it would be a really good idea to pick a racing class and prepare the car with those rules in mind. The car will have greater value later to someone wanting to compete in that class if you decide to get rid of it.
As to weights, my Spec E30 wound up at 2540lb (w/o driver and with a 1/4 tank of gas) after stripping to extent allowed by the rules and installation of two racing seats, roll cage, cool shirt system, and fire suppression system. It took 60lb of ballast to get the car up to minimum weight and by placing that weight right behind the passenger's seat I have nearly perfect cross-weights. I removed:
Headliner
Entire sunroof (used the sunroof panel to fill the hole)
Carpet
Glovebox
Door panels and other trim (replaced front panels with AL sheet (protection from flying glass))
Cruise control, module, and wiring
Radio, speakers, amp, and associated wiring
AC compressor, condenser, aux fan, dryer & lines
PS pump
Replaced engine driven fan with 16" 2500cfm electric fan
Trunk lining and tool kit
Spare
All sound deadening in the cabin and trunk
Underhood lining
I've retained an operational heater and windshield washer as they are a handy things to have. I also retained the console as it made routing of the fire system pull cables much cleaner and that part weights very little.Leave a comment:
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I'm just wondering, because if you are planning on racing the car, you can't just start removing stuff - some classes have restrictions on what can be removed, and minimum weight limits as well.
Otherwise you're basically turning your street machine into a rolling parts car..Leave a comment:
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Glove box
Heater core
Exterior sound deadening in the transmission tunnel
Sunroof componants
1-piece racing seats
I think you could get 200-250lbs out of the car from the items that have been listed so far.
Next comes lexan windows, FG bumpers and FG hood/decklid for another drop in weight.
These car's aren't real heavy to start with, so getting them down low is pretty tough. If you can knock out 300lbs you are doing a great job.Leave a comment:
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