Show me your full AutoX e30 and specs

[diegom6]

Hi guys,

would like to see pics of the cars with some shots of the suspension components and whole specs for AutoX activity of your lovely e30.

A friend of mine it's getting insterested in build a up a full dedicated e30 for AutoX with my help and we are going to dropp a S50B30 US version there.

I'm looking at some sites to get some info and prices for different components but I'm unsure what would be the best bang for the buck.

Thanks,

-Diego

[Jean]

This is what worked for me last year- I am in SM class.

Bilstein sport front/rear inserts
Ground control coilover kit, 500front/650rear
Ground control camber race camber plates. -2 degrees
New control arms and tie rods
Offset front control arm bushings
New front swaybar hardware/end links, no rear sway
Stock front/rear 325i brembo oem rotors, dot4 fluid
New front/rear oem brake lines
Stock weaves on rt615 tires (great street tires)
3.9 lsd



Next on the list:
New shifter hardware
Koni race shocks
New rear subrame and trailing arm bushings
15 or 16 wheels and dot r tires
Power, power, power

[E30Driv3R]

C3Motorsport Coilovers
450f/750r Eibach ERS
Koni SA F&R (Top Adjustable F&R)
Vorschlag Camber Plates (-3.5)
Offset Cabs
Stock Sways

**Coming Up**
S50
IE Big Sways
500lb Front Springs
Treeehouse CABS

Edit: Sorry for the big Pics

[z31maniac]

Are THR CAB's STX legal since they change the proportion of metal in the bushing?

[diegom6]

Do yuo have pics of these?

C3Motorsport Coilovers
450f/750r Eibach ERS

The C3 Motorsport coil over you bought, came with springs that are Eibach, or did you buy these Eibach springs separatly?

450 and 750 are the messures for the front and rear, what unit stand for it? load? pressure?

Someone educate me with suspension techniques and basics, but the stiffer the coil spring, the better for AutoX for example? (besides the bunch of other things that are related to make all this work floswly for each application) Or do you need a specific rate, for example in a e30 for AutoX for the coil spring to make it turn like a go kart?

-Diego

[DSP74]

Keep in mind all further tidbits are based on a NATIONALLY COMPETITVE CAR.
With an S50 you will be put squarely into SM. And after recent pondering I just don't think an S50 is the right choice.
Acheiving minimum weight is ULTRA important. And reducing weight will very noticeably effect handling, braking and acceleration. This isn't just something you read about in the books. Take 300lbs out of a car and you WILL be amazed.

The second most important thing is HP. A naturally aspirated S50 just won't put enough power the wheels. And even if you could somehow manage 350 N/A HP to the wheels, it would be even more unreliable and undriveable than a boosted engine.
So we are now looking at a super or turbocharged engine. Superchargers are out IMO even though the twin screw is the superior choice, because of cost and availability.

So we need a turbo charger. An S50/M50 already weighs more than an M20 and the turbo system is only going to add to that. They are several times more complicated than an M20 in MANY respects......Stick to a boosted M20. Lack of cool factor be damned.

Then add in a fiberglass or carbon hood, F/G fenders and front fascia, plastic rear bumper, CF sunroof panel, remove all sound system/ac/power windows/ and any other factory de-optioning that can be done......

This of course assumes that the car is already mildly built and that suspension components are in place.............Which may not be the case here.
To put things into perspective ALOT of research should be done, and I've been doing that for a year now. All I've actually either have planned or have put into motion.....?
400 or 450lb front springs on Ground Control coilovers. Probably both rates and test.
Rear springs 550, 600, 650 lb rear springs all tested. Aluminum rear subframe bushings and diff mount. And tree house racing CAB's. Beyond that I'm still looking. I know that I need camber plates so I need to decide on those, and I know I need new bushings in the rear, as well as new front arms........Start researching now. And by all means try to do the thing ONCE.................I had upteen different parts on my old ESP car.

[DSP74]

BTW there needs to be a balance between spring rate and low speed rebound damping to provide the crispist turn in (I think I just made up a word). You don't want to do it all with spring or with shock......But those two things are what makes the car super responsive (along with a tiny bit o' toe out)

[E30 Racer]

Keep in mind that many of the mods listed by DSP74 are not legal in STS, STX, or DSP. Without question, read the rulebook before building a race car.

http://www.scca.org/documents/Solo%20Rules/2008_Solo_Rules_2.pdf

[ecniv]

I'm interested in the wheel alignment specs you competitive guys are running... anyone care to share their secrets? I am mainly interested in the numbers that are adjustable on a stock E30. I assume lots of negative camber, a little bit of toe out, and very little caster?

[DSP74]

Garrick these guys are swapping in an S50 off the bat......


Lon

[E30Driv3R]

You talking about me? if so i have been autoxing for 4 years in the 318 and keep up with the 325s in STX. I have just recently moved to SM since my engine shit out on me...

[brodee]

I'm interested in the wheel alignment specs you competitive guys are running... anyone care to share their secrets? I am mainly interested in the numbers that are adjustable on a stock E30. I assume lots of negative camber, a little bit of toe out, and very little caster?

The only adjustment you can make on a STOCK e30 is toe. Camber and caster require plates to change. Best plates are Vorshlag's.

Diego, the numbers they are referring to on the springs are the pound rating, as in 450 pound fronts and 650 pound rears on a coilover setup.

Biggest difference you will see would be in coilovers with good spring rates and a set of camber plates set to -3 to -3.5 degrees. Get that all working and tested out then you can play with sway bars. Also of course replace all the bushings front and rear.

[diegom6]

The only adjustment you can make on a STOCK e30 is toe. Camber and caster require plates to change. Best plates are Vorshlag's.

Diego, the numbers they are referring to on the springs are the pound rating, as in 450 pound fronts and 650 pound rears on a coilover setup.

Biggest difference you will see would be in coilovers with good spring rates and a set of camber plates set to -3 to -3.5 degrees. Get that all working and tested out then you can play with sway bars. Also of course replace all the bushings front and rear.

Perfect! Thanks for the info. Like I said this is goign to be a e30 dedicated for AutoX, but my turboed 325i has coilovers with the shitty Type R coil over parts and springs made for the e36, also I do have konis. It sucks...what would happen if I go witht hese spring rate for my daily drive turbo e30 considering we have many pot holes, bump stops and shitty roads over here? It will be too much? Too stiff? I remember installling /bought new) Eibach pro kit stock spring perch, it sucked big time because they were absolutly hard-stiff springs and every pot hole I went over, it hitted hard and started to fuck up my whole car and parts. Then I switched to these coilover setup (cuted the e36 strut and dropped the konis since I have 5 lug swapp from 318ti car) andit's much more smoother the suspension, altough it bounces in iiregular roads and I don't liek it very much.







Thanks,

-Diego

[2002maniac]

the pro-kit is one of the softest lowering kits available.

[sbullard878]

http://youtube.com/watch?v=dLzJANFvoBc

With alot of sand on course