NOR-CAL General Chat.

[Toodaloo]

32mm spanner wrench

1 flat head screw driver

a drill with a 1/4 drive

6mm,7mm,8mm,10mm 1/4" drive sockets

deep socket 13mm 3/8" drive

E12 star socket

1/2" to 3/8" adapter

1/2',3/8",1/4" rackets

12mm,13mm,22mm wrenches

peratex water pump sealant

red high temp grease

2gl distilled water

1gl bmw coolant

1 can of brake clean

roll of paper towel

1 razor blade

loosen the the water pump pulley before you take off the the Vbelts.

Before you remove the timing belt, loosen the cam bolt.



you dont need to remove the 2 wires from across the front of the timing belt cover, work around them carefully.



it should take you ~4 hours start to finish by yourself. 5 hours if you polish all the parts. my record speed is 3:15 with my dad helping.



DO NOT over tighten the 10mm long bolt that goes into the head. 12lbs MAX! use loctite if it is already stripped out.



there is a timing mark on the cam and head and another on the crank (line) and "V" in the lower housing.



only use the spring tension to tension the timing belt, over tightening the belt with added tension with cause premature wear and failure of the belt. too loose and you blow the engine. rotate the crank 4 times with the 22mm wrench as the tensioner is loose and allow the spring to take up the slack. then verify the timing marks and if ok, tighten it up and put it all back together. this car is by far the easiest timing belt job to do right if you follow the few rules.

Thanks so much!!!

I started this afternoon and am about half way through the process. Everything is currently off, and I've been busy cleaning the block, accessories, and misc. parts. Replaced the camshaft seal and o ring, now waiting till tomorrow to keep going.

I have a few questions if yo don't mind answering:

- What is the high temp grease used for?

- How shall I go about sealing the water pump? Sealant between gasket and block? Gasket and pump? Both?

Thanks.

[Cabriolet]

- What is the high temp grease used for?
Never put any seal in anything you ever build or make dry. the grease is used so that you dont burn up the ring on start up. the engine exceeds the temp of grey grease so we use high temp red grease on all engine seals before installing.

- How shall I go about sealing the water pump? Sealant between gasket and block? Gasket and pump? Both?

a thin smear on each side of the paper gasket is plenty.

[kronus]

there's a whole bunch of m20 seals that go in dry..

[Cabriolet]

there's a whole bunch of m20 seals that go in dry..

this is why we aren't dating.

[Toodaloo]

Alright thanks! I used engine oil on assembly with the camshaft seal. (I guess I just did this because it was the process for the tranny output shaft seal). I'll go ahead and remove the camshaft seal and smear it with the high temp grease. You make a good point!

Okay sweet! For the water pump- Should I smear it on then instantly install? Or install it snug, let it cure for an hour, then torque it down?

Thanks again!

[Cabriolet]

this will answer what you need to know.

http://www.permatex.com/documents/TDS/automotive/22071.pdf

[Steven]

Never put any seal in anything you ever build or make dry. the grease is used so that you dont burn up the ring on start up. the engine exceeds the temp of grey grease so we use high temp red grease on all engine seals before installing.

You can use some oil or petroleum jelly for this too.

[Toodaloo]

Thanks guys, I ended up just instantly installing after making an even thin coat of the sealant.

Everything is back together!

I'll be finishing it up in the morning. (Probably a dry start for like 20 seconds, then I'll add coolant and bleed the system.)

I'm a little nervous!

[Pantless Spency]

Thanks guys, I ended up just instantly installing after making an even thin coat of the sealant.

Everything is back together!

I'll be finishing it up in the morning. (Probably a dry start for like 20 seconds, then I'll add coolant and bleed the system.)

I'm a little nervous!

Fill the reservoir before you start it and add accordingly while the car is idling.


Leave the reservoir open until the car stops taking more coolant. Then bleed. Run it with the heater on full blast and try and keep the front of the car as the highest point to hopefully get all those bubbles out the bleeder screw. Most driveways in Napa will be good for bleeding like this.

[Toodaloo]

Fill the reservoir before you start it and add accordingly while the car is idling.


Leave the reservoir open until the car stops taking more coolant. Then bleed. Run it with the heater on full blast and try and keep the front of the car as the highest point to hopefully get all those bubbles out the bleeder screw. Most driveways in Napa will be good for bleeding like this.

Don't worry, not my first time doing this! Had to drain the rad/block and bleed after replacing my thermostat.

The car is currently on two jack stands with the front end in the air, my driveway is actually sloped downward a little bit! Haha. But it's on level ground in my garage.

There are a ton of tricks to bleeding the system. I found that squeezing the rad hoses helped me a lot.

[Pantless Spency]

Yeah that will help a lot.

[Toodaloo]

She's road worthy! :D

Everything went smoothly!

[Pantless Spency]

She's road worthy! :D

Everything went smoothly!

No drip drops from the water pump?


And timing is good?

[Toodaloo]

No drip drops from the water pump?


And timing is good?

No drips yet, and I got the timing right the first time I slipped the belt on! It actually wasn't hard at all, just tedious. I spent A LOT of time cleaning up grime.

[Cabriolet]

No drips yet, and I got the timing right the first time I slipped the belt on! It actually wasn't hard at all, just tedious. I spent A LOT of time cleaning up grime.

Ya! It's one of the easiest engines to work on imo. Plenty of room and straight forward.