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**evil_twin** · 11-01-2011, 05:50 PM

Could be me, but sounds a bit like a ground issue.

**amiller07** · 11-02-2011, 12:03 AM

Originally posted by devon.818 View Post

having real issues with my car. no fuel, no spark, cranks.

symptoms:
was having hard cold starts
would only start on bump start, jump start didn't work
died while it was coasting to a stop
later that ^^^ day it wouldn't start at all, hasn't started since
no fuel or spark

the car:
1987 vert
vanos m50 swap

i really dont want to be guessing whats wrong, tried testing things with a voltmeter, and it seems(to me) to check out.

so lets negoiate something. money isn't the issue, but i dont have the time to deal with this.

located by towson MD, 21209. house call mandatory, cannot get it towed.

who wants to take on this job(paid)?

email me for info

devon.818@hotmail.com

p.s, i dont need anyone's comments, only someone who has experience and can fix this.if i can't get this fixed, it will have to go, missing too much work because its my ONLY car.

sounds like the crankshaft sensor.....that controls your spark and fuel on start up

**TexasTerp** · 11-02-2011, 07:28 AM

Originally posted by amiller07 View Post

sounds like the crankshaft sensor.....that controls your spark and fuel on start up

agreed, very similar conditions to what Jeff1 was going through with the Alpine car at GutenFest...

**kts** · 11-02-2011, 10:53 AM

+1 to what everyone else is saying about the crankshaft position sensor. I had similar issues on my E36 when my CPS was slowly dying. I replaced it and it's been fine ever since.

Bit of a pain to do in an E36 engine bay, not sure if it'll be better or worse in an E30 engine bay. I had to pull the intake manifold and the upper radiator hose to replace the CPS. On your M50 the CPS should be on the front of the engine just below the upper radiator hose. The wiring harness is under the intake manifold and behind the oil filter housing. You might be lucky and be able to undo it without removing the manifold but I gave up on that and just removed the manifold.

If you go in there and replace the CPS probably time to replace the crankshaft position sensor and knock sensors as well. More $ but at least you won't have to do all that work again.

**devon.818** · 11-02-2011, 11:04 AM

Ordered the part, will pick it up today. If this doesn't do it the car is gone. Hoping it does. Thanks guys.

And brody, I remember that, yeah sounds the same

**ill4noreason** · 11-02-2011, 05:06 PM

Fixed???? If not I know someone who wants the vert.

**evil_twin** · 11-02-2011, 05:11 PM

If it was a crank sensor, the car wouldnt start by clutch kicking it

**devon.818** · 11-02-2011, 05:32 PM

Originally posted by evil_twin View Post

If it was a crank sensor, the car wouldnt start by clutch kicking it

well it doesn't anymore!
it used to, but towards its last driving days it had 2-3 incidenences that even a bump start wouldn't start it, took a few attempts, the last attempt we tried over 10 times, pushed it down a grade with 3 guys behind and me dumping the clutch, it sounded like it was "thinking about" starting, then decided not to...

CPS should be easy to install, will see.

still hiring someone to fix some other shit, should i keep the car....

**evil_twin** · 11-02-2011, 05:43 PM

time to do the pedal dance and see if it's throwing a code.

key off
turn key to run position
stomp pedal 5 times within 5 seconds.
count how many times check engine light flashes.

**VinniE30** · 11-02-2011, 07:36 PM

^ I have a peake reader that can get the codes.
one of these: www.peakeresearch.com/

**devon.818** · 11-03-2011, 08:57 PM

dont you think i would have tried to pull the codes?
seriously, i had a bmw tech hook it to the dianostics machine a month ago and it couldn't communicate.

tried the stomp test the day it wouldn't start at all and i got nothing. tore open the wiring harnes to find plenty of wires not hooked up, hit them with the voltmeter and most of them were getting signals.

shit, im not asking for advice, this is a thread for anyone who can assist me, by assist i mean i pay you, you fix it.

i have another thread for those who want to HELP ME DIAGNOSE.

**dkbmxer002** · 11-04-2011, 10:24 AM

Sounds like a ground like said. Mine did the same thing when I had a loose ground that goes to the engine mount

**EtaSport** · 11-09-2011, 04:27 PM

I know you aren't looking for more work on your own however, I am a level 2 bmw tech with plenty of swap experience so I can point you where you need to go, just no time to make it to MD to help.

I don't think you have a ground issue. Crank sensor is possible. The symptoms of a crank sensor are; car starts and runs okay, car shuts off while driving, then will not restart.

That said, the very first things to check in a no fuel, no spark situation is power at the DME main relay (red wire). If power is present you need to check for switched power at the red/white wire. If you have power there then you know for a fact that your DME main relay is good and at this point your DME is okay. The problem in this situation could be the crank sensor.

If you DO NOT have power at the red/white wire you may have a faulty main relay. I just had this issue on an m42 318 where a 20 dollar relay fixed the issue you described exactly. You can test this by jumping the pins on the relay and if the car starts then it was the main relay. If it does not start it could be a faulty DME.

I have a feeling that your main relay may be faulty.

As far as the technician connecting the vehicle to a diagnostic tester; if he was trying to connect to a new generation ISID tester you will never communicate. The ISID collects its ID information from the instrument clusters and will never ID an e30 with a swap because it's looking for a CAN signal from the cluster. If he tried connecting to a 2g GT1 then it should have connected just fine. If the GT1 was used and it was unable to communicate (even with manual ID) then you either have a faulty DME or the RXD/TXD diagnostic lines aren't hooked up properly in the 20 pin connector. Did you wire the ground connection for your CEL with the grey wire from the x20?

Keep in mind the e30 needs only a handful of wires in the c101/x20 to actually start and run; the black/yellow, green ignition wire, unloader relay, and the blue alternator wire is about all it takes. Most people associate crank/no start problems with the c101/x20 but it is rarely the case.

Just think in simple terms, check the wires I recommended and report back.

**bmwstudent** · 11-09-2011, 05:54 PM

very nice post etasport, its nice when people are actually helpful

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