CO track thread
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Nah, I had the OEM plastic tunnel on the driver side that housed the air temp sensor. But that's the part that went bye bye on the main straight. I didn't fab up any hose setup or anything.
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Originally posted by DTM190"fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"Comment
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Also, I joined the SpecE30 forum a while ago and I lurk there a bit... Read a bit about everything, including brakes. Their general agreement is to spend the absolute smallest amount of money on rotors possible cause they all wear the same. There's a few links that were posted that have em for like $19 and $22 per rotor for front rotors... Which is like half price. I'll probably be ordering my PFC06 pads from raceshopper, then rotors from one of the other websites.
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Originally posted by DTM190"fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"Comment
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I've got what I think are brake pad deposits on my rotors leading to a slight rumble when I brake. This happened once before on street brakes, but my pads and rotors were getting close so I just replaced them. Does anyone have a solution other than just braking hard to get them off? I was thinking about getting my rotors turned and sanding my pad surfaces. I'll def mount the track setup next time.JOY IS AN E30...

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Something about $19 rotors scare me. Cheapest brembos I can find are $140 shipped for all four. Searching around for something similar but cheaper.Also, I joined the SpecE30 forum a while ago and I lurk there a bit... Read a bit about everything, including brakes. Their general agreement is to spend the absolute smallest amount of money on rotors possible cause they all wear the same. There's a few links that were posted that have em for like $19 and $22 per rotor for front rotors... Which is like half price. I'll probably be ordering my PFC06 pads from raceshopper, then rotors from one of the other websites.
- E30, DSM, Golf R, Mazda 3 Skyactiv
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BMA has em for $16 ;) I was skeptical at first, but if the majority of the spec guys are using cheap stuff, I don't see an issue. Plus, I asked Lee a while ago and he said the only possible flaw would be them wearing faster, in which case you just buy 2 sets of the cheap ones.
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Originally posted by DTM190"fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"Comment
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I'd tend to agree, but they MSRP for quite a bit more and like I said, if the Spec guys are racing on these and not dieing... I think it'll be ok.
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Originally posted by DTM190"fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"Comment
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allright dudes, I have HP+ and they don't squeal much at all on the street after I installed brake quieting nylon pads: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...0%281984-92%29
Now, I can't attest as to how they will hold up to track temps, but they will keep the pads mostly quiet on the street up until you go to the track anyway. heck, maybe they do stand up to track heat, I just haven't tested them
Also, my rotors are Centric rotors from TireRack: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...1&autoModClar= and I have had good luck with them, in fact, my car brakes incredibly well, and I never have had fade or boiling fluid when I was at HPR. Ben ran into that on HPR I think last time because his car is significantly heavier, he had higher straight stretch speeds, and his 17's were heaver with a larger OD than my wheels/tires, so that applies alot more torque to the brakes under braking.Comment
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I'm willing to bet money those pads would melt and cause issues on track.
I doubt the centric rotors had any say in your brakes not fading sam. I honestly don't think there's an issue with the BMA ones and I'll probably be ordering them. My brakes were noticeably more confidence inspiring yesterday with the 15s.
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Originally posted by DTM190"fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"Comment
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I never said anything about my rotors making any difference. I just stated that I have had good luck with them. The reasons my brakes didn't fade was the car is light, slow speed (dang M42) and small OD on tires (smaller than stock)Comment
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Alright fair enough.
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Originally posted by DTM190"fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"Comment
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The small OD difference isn't the issue between 225/15 and 235/17 and pads heating up/fluid boiling, it's the increase in rotational inertia due to the heavier 17" wheel. More inertia = more force required to stop. If you think about it, the weight difference between 15 and 17 only makes a difference at the OD of the RIM not the Tire. Since your 15 + tire combo is not smaller in OD than the 17" rim alone, your theory is wrong. The OD only changes gearing. The heavier wheels, and the distribution of that extra mass, does make a difference, but has nothing to do with braking torque. Braking torque is the torque applied by the caliper to the hub through the rotor....not the wheel (force x lever arm).
The 1.5" difference in OD between Ben's tire setups has no effect on braking (put a 235/50 on a 15 and you'll have your proof); it has an effect on gearing. The braking torque is not what you are thinking of, you are thinking of rotational inertia, which has nothing to do with braking torque nor OD of the wheel and tire. Put a 20lb 15" wheel with the same tire size as the TR lightweight wheels, and you'll see the exact same effect. Rotational inertia is the reason the 17s don't feel as good as the 15s, not the other gibberish.Comment

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