CO track thread

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  • blefevre
    replied
    So the pedal should remain firm the entire time?

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  • Bishop
    replied
    Whatever is happening shouldn't be happening... Air in the lines maybe?

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  • blefevre
    replied
    I need more help with brakes.

    I went and made an attempt at bedding in the brakes again. Also just to make sure everything works as expected. Here is what happened.

    Brakes faded very quickly. I was doing repeats of 60-10 or so at 80% braking force, some at 100%. Within a short time I was able to get to the point where my pedal was on the floor nearly every attempt. Of course I wasn't pushing the brakes at this point either though.

    Questions:
    Should the pedal be getting that soft in that short of time? Is that the effects of the street pads or is my MC screwed or air in the lines? Once they cooled again I had a pretty firm pedal like I do under normal driving.

    Specs:
    Axxis ULT
    New lines, calipers, fluid
    Super awesome snow tires

    Should I be concerned about the pedal going to the floor that quickly? I can't really say it increased my confidence to enjoy a track day, lol.
    Last edited by blefevre; 03-04-2011, 04:26 PM.

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  • Bishop
    replied
    Yeah, my STi was like that too, brand new when I got it and was off like 4mph lol...

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  • Eric
    replied
    Originally posted by Bishop
    I'll bet they make a pill for that. Even on the street, not a huge deal... These are old cars, the speedos aren't 100% accurate even with proper size tires... I know of 2 different radar display things, I drive by both of em a few times each and compare displayed time against my speedo, boom, then just gotta remember the difference in my head driving around town.
    my 2010 MINI is off with stock wheels/tires! 75mph on two different GPS systems is showing 81mph on the MINI digital readout.:roll:

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  • Bishop
    replied
    Well if you buy way too small, yeah, but 45 isn't a big enough difference to notice in my mind.... I'd look into 225/45, larger selection of tires.

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  • blefevre
    replied
    It just looks ugly!

    But yeah, I am buying either 205/50 or 225/45 so I will live with it.

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  • Bishop
    replied
    Originally posted by blefevre
    Yes I know, It just bothers me having undersized tires.
    Originally posted by blefevre
    It's an issue for my OCD brain.
    I'll bet they make a pill for that. Even on the street, not a huge deal... These are old cars, the speedos aren't 100% accurate even with proper size tires... I know of 2 different radar display things, I drive by both of em a few times each and compare displayed time against my speedo, boom, then just gotta remember the difference in my head driving around town.

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  • blefevre
    replied
    It's an issue for my OCD brain.

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  • Roland H
    replied
    Originally posted by blefevre
    You dont need to fab the plate. You can just cut it and force a dust cover in there. It's an airbag car so there is no knuckle changes. I don't need to redo lines or anything. Just rack out, cut firewall, rack in.
    Ah, I'll have to take a peek and see if it would be doable with the motor in there.

    Originally posted by blefevre
    Yes I know, It just bothers me having undersized tires.
    Won't be an issue for a track only set of wheels.

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  • blefevre
    replied
    Originally posted by Bishop
    Agreed, which is why you don't buy stock diameter.
    Yes I know, It just bothers me having undersized tires.

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  • blefevre
    replied
    You dont need to fab the plate. You can just cut it and force a dust cover in there. It's an airbag car so there is no knuckle changes. I don't need to redo lines or anything. Just rack out, cut firewall, rack in.

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  • Bimmerman325i
    replied
    plate? i haz a machine shop.

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  • Roland H
    replied
    Looks simple, only thing I don't have is the skillz to fab up a plate. (unless your car is non-airbag? I can't remember). If it is an airbag car, it would be ideal to do it at the same time as your 24v swap ;).

    Originally posted by blefevre
    Here is the basic idea. The steering knuckle does not need to be modified at all, however I would change the bushing/flex disc. The only thing that needs to change with an airbag car is firewall/bracket at the firewall. A lot of people say the actual firewall doesnt need to be cut but just the bracket. About 1/2 inch or so. The knuckle will sit down and to the left so you just need to make room for it. I have heard of people adding spacers on the rack and i'm not sure what that is all about yet. The engine needs to be lifted to get the rack out I believe. There are a billion threads on it with all different information which is why I haven't done it.

    http://www.rmeuropean.com/bmw-e30-steering.aspx

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  • Bishop
    replied
    Originally posted by fsmtnbiker
    Ben- I would run the 15s. You can always get 15" Hoosiers if you get bored.

    The 225 hankooks can be hard to get.
    Thanks Chris, I was thinking along the same lines. But I'd probably do like, an NT01 or something, RA1 maybe, before jumping right to a hoosier.

    Originally posted by iamcreepingdeath
    see there ya go!! I told ya 15s are the best!
    lol....

    Originally posted by Roland H
    I've been telling him for ages, he finally agrees. :D
    This is why we can't have nice things. and yes to documentation.
    Originally posted by blefevre
    I love 15's, but the tire selection blows in the stock diameter sizes.
    Agreed, which is why you don't buy stock diameter.



    DIY

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