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FS (Denver): 89 325i, coupe, red, manual. 309,100 mi. (approx 183k on engine)

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    FS (Denver): 89 325i, coupe, red, manual. 309,100 mi. (approx 183k on engine)

    For Sale: Denver

    1989 BMW 325i, coupe, red, manual
    309,100 miles (approx 183k on engine)
    $3,000 OBO

    PM for serious inquiries and next steps including test drives. I’m posting to R3V for a week to give enthusiasts a chance before I post to Craigslist.

    I have owned this car since Sept 2010, and I am the 7th owner based on my own research and the paperwork that has been passed on to me. The owner before me had owned the car for at least 8 years and I have the history of all of his work as well as the history of all of the work done during my ownership. I can also provide the Carfax as of 4/2014 if interested.

    Summary of my ownership: Owned since 9/2010. Car was semi-daily driven through all seasons in CO from 9/2010 – 4/2014, and driven a few times a month since then. Approx. half of the 35K miles that I have done have been on the highway. Car was also autocrossed off and on for the past four summers.

    High level details:
    -Car handles well and is fun to drive. Passes emissions. Combined mpg: 24.
    -Stock M20B25 engine swapped by previous owner @246K miles. Engine had 120K miles on it supposedly at time of swap-> therefore I estimate engine has 183K on it now.
    -OZ Racing Vega 15” three-piece wheels, black centers hand-painted so becoming chipped. Bridgestone Potenza RE960 Pole Position all seasons with 50% tread left. Not “summer” tires but they handle closer to summer tires than all-seasons. 8mm wheel spacers included with corresponding lug bolts and extra lug bolts.
    -Within the past few years: rebuilt head and replaced timing belt, water pump, alternator, and power-steering rack. See “Repairs/additions during my ownership” section for more details on car’s running condition. There are no known mechanical issues at this time.
    -Notable performance-related from previous owner: Limited-slip differential, Dinan chip (don’t notice anything different than stock other than raised redline to 8k rpm and run 91 octane…never tried a lower octane), H&R Springs (approx 2 in. lower than stock), cat-back exhaust (sounds good), K&N air filter (no stock airbox), 21 lb fuel injectors, Momo shift knob, billet aluminum e-brake handle, SPW racing steering wheel (have had zero problems despite the internet warnings, also makes car a lot more enjoyable to drive and faster to turn).
    -Notable performance-related during my ownership: Brakes: Replaced using stock brake rotors all four corners with less than 20k miles, EBC Yellowstuff front pads, Hawk HPS rear pads, stainless-steel brake lines, high boiling point brake fluid. Added front skidplate to avoid catastrophic-engine-bottom-out-from-lovely-Colorado-winter-road-conditions (hasn’t happened on my car but have known it to happen to others).
    Other notables: Sunroof, CD player with working speakers, red BMW emblems and “eyebrows” on front grille (all from prior owner and I originally wasn’t a fan of these, but they’ve grown on me and make the car look a bit more unique).

    Known issues / clarifications (while these might not be issues or problems for most people, I’m listing them in the interest of full transparency)
    -Overall paint/body condition 7/10. Hood faded, rear bumper nearly pink, front driver’s side panel has paint deterioration. Small sections of body rust behind front wheels.
    -Rear defrost not functional; believed to be electrical issue behind center console as rear defrost button does not light up either, nor do the (back)lights behind climate controls.
    -Cruise control doesn’t work. Horn doesn’t work. Glove box latch handle broken but can still open and close easily.
    -All A/C components under hood removed.
    -Hole in shift boot from putting shifter into reverse, small tear in driver’s seat, the usual dashboard cracks.
    -One or both headlights do not turn on immediately every 2-3 drives. Waiting 10-15 seconds with the stalk still on and then turning them off and back on will cause them to both turn on. Headlights do remain on once they’ve turned on, so this is a minor annoyance. Believed to be issue with HID’s…these were installed due to pitting on the lenses to help with nighttime visibility. True white in color (55 watt, 4500K).
    -Foglights don’t work. Stock broken ones replaced with cheap Ebay knockoffs and they lasted about a year. I keep them on the car purely for aesthetic reasons now.

    Repairs (most done by a trusted local shop)
    -within the past year: Timing belt tensioner replaced, timing belt replaced at the same time; fuel pressure regulator replaced; spark plugs replaced; SI board behind instrument cluster replaced; heater fan and resistor replaced.
    -others during my ownership (in addition to those listed immediately above)
    -Rebuilt power steering rack (no leaks); replaced alternator, accessory belts, oil pan gasket; replaced fuel pump, all cooling hoses; replaced front wheel bearings; replaced transmission output seal, shift rod seal, detent ball cover gasket.
    -Partially rebuilt head due to rocker arm break, full head gasket kit done at same time. No problems with engine that I know of.

    I am a very well-paid professional with another sports car so I am not selling this car out of necessity nor am I selling it for the money. I’m merely selling it because I don’t enjoy it as much as I used to and figured that these cars are popular enough that someone else will want to enjoy it as much as I have over the past five years.
    Attached Files

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