Anyone have a m20b25 or chipped eta?
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i was able to kill and eta well it would have been ok on the street but after 20k of driving to from and on the track(started at 292k pulled mortor at 311k) it started useing 2qts of oil every 20mins but would be ok on the street. the new motor has an ebay chip (20$) and exhaust with a 3.25 diff results on a dyno is 133 whp and 172 w tq. yes you dont get the revs my chip only goes to 5200 but alot go to 5500. so my ETA has about 160hp same as stock I motor and just under 200tq just about what a stock 328 makes in tq-Eric-Comment
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Like Greg said, if you want to get serious -- you have to go 24v. Potent M20's can be built without too much investment as well, and I don't blame folks that want to keep the original motor and the sound of the M20. But dollar-for-dollar horsepower won't match comparing M20 vs. M50.
Another note about budget 24v's. You can stay 84mm bore with the M50 (but make sure you're running atleast 84/85.8 on the stroke). 84mm bore pistons are all you need for a killer street motor, 86+ is totally unnecessary. This can keep costs down significantly if you're building the motor yourself. We built a ton of 290-300 85.8x84 (2.9L) motors in 1999-2005. A bonus of keeping thing the small bore with stock pistons is the necessity to mill the pistons and set the static c/r pretty much anywhere you want. A little over 11:1 works great on a street motor.Comment
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