So now that I got my new diff on and working of course something new has to go wrong. I can't get my car to stay running at stop lights. It will either buck and pull and rev like crap or just stall out. Once I'm on the gas everything seems to be acceptable. I have no idea what this problem is. I read that it could be my crank position sensor but I have no way of checking that and other things without a diagnostic tool to pull codes. Which brings me to my next question. Is anybody willing to come out with their computer and help me pull some codes/figure out the damn problem. I drive a '86 eta btw. I could also drive out to where you are at but I don't know how much I trust my car to go very far. I can provide beer and food and whatever is needed. I just want to get this car running solid for once.
The neverending problems..
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Do that, then come to the Tuesday Night Dicks meet with John and I ;)Sparkle' - Strategic Alpin Command
Originally posted by marksevenThat right there is why everyone loves E30s.Originally posted by Dj Buttchugno fat dudes. car will scrapeOriginally posted by RyannStacey in yoga pants. Discuss.Comment
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Really hope that's it bud. I still can't make it up there anytime soon :(Need a part? PM me.
Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123Comment
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Sometimes the TPS can cause this. The TPS tells the ICV what to do.Comment
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Lol, its on Bimmer Forums. Its at 7. :)
Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere else. Our professionals are here to help make sure you find the answers you need to your questions and our community is here to help other brainstorm ideas for the future.Sparkle' - Strategic Alpin Command
Originally posted by marksevenThat right there is why everyone loves E30s.Originally posted by Dj Buttchugno fat dudes. car will scrapeOriginally posted by RyannStacey in yoga pants. Discuss.Comment
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It's not the ICV I cleaned that fucker out with a crazy amount of carb cleaner but it still wants to stall out whenever it's not moving quick ..I will try and check out these other things you guys mentioned tomorrow. What should I be looking for as far as the Idle brain and afm goes? What would indicate problems? How can I check the TPS also.
Is it possible that my ICV is broken? I kind of shook it lightly and i could here some clicking noises and movement. I assumed this was just part of the whole mechanism though.
Also, I forgot to mention originally I've noticed that my headlights will dim and brighten at the same pace that the tach bouncing occurs at, dimming when it the rpm's dip really low. I also noticed the mpg gauge needle goes back and forth a bunch when this happens as well.
And the problems continue...Comment
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Gayest response ever. You ever read the Bentley and then worked on an M20? It's one of the most worthless fucking manuals on the planet.
Check the hose that runs to the AFM. As for not holding an idle, get a thorough check on every single rubber hose for cracks, ect.
The headlights dimming in time to the tac bouncing has a lot to do with the car wanting to die but, I'd also remove the alternator and have it tested.Need a part? PM me.
Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123Comment
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Yes, I did a headgasket with my Bentley.
It's worth more than the Chilton. Also, when I said "It's all in there" I was referring to the fact that it tells the reader how to test the ICV, AFM, and TPS.Originally posted by 5Toesbux bux bux. Im all about the bux Mr. AutismComment
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