My Favorite $30 Mod so far...(keyless entry)
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This is a sticky topic.
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How old is your unit?Last edited by george graves; 11-14-2016, 05:06 AM.Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?Comment
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Brand new. Just installed and trying to get working. An intermittent problem, where it would not work with regularity, called for new batteries as a solution.
I swear, despite intermittently working, they did lock previously.
Open up the remote and use isopropyl alcohol to clean the PCB would be my first move. Not to say it will fix it. But between the rubbery key pad, and the PCB it might have some oxidation/oil/junk. On the underside of the keys, there will be black nub. Don't fuss with it too much, just clean it lightly.
How old is your unit?Comment
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Sent from my XT1064 using Tapatalk(OO=[][]=OO) For LifeComment
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I have my first Omega keyless entry in my '87 325is, and 9 years later it still works perfectly. But since I wasn't able to find the same thing for my latest E30 acquisition, a quick search found a cheaper unit that works just as well.
It seems that the Docooler keyless entry system that is only $15.49 on Amazon is very popular, with overall good reviews. The real issue being that the included wiring diagram is difficult to read, and on top of that it is incorrect.
Once I got the central locking system to work (it was the infamous red/black stripe power wire that runs needlessly thru the door wiring harness), I installed the Docooler keyless entry. As I did in my 325is, I pulled back the trunk liner on the left side of the trunk and tapped into the trunk lock wiring bundle.
As mentioned, the included wiring diagram with the Docooler is incorrect...in that what is labeled as the positive trigger setup is actually the negative trigger setup, and vice versa. Since the E30 is negative trigger, then do this:
Connect the White (Lock) wire from the Docooler to the E30 Green/Black Stripe wire.
Connect the White/Black stripe (Unlock) wire from the Docooler to the E30 Green/Violet Stripe wire.
Next, take the Yellow and Yellow/Black stripe wires that come from the Docooler, along with the Black ground wire, tie them together, and connect them both to Ground. I used the ground point for the power antenna, which is a 10mm bolt on the power antenna bracket. Remember, on the wiring diagram this connection type shows it is for positive trigger...but it is incorrect. This configuration will work for your E30 (or any BMW that uses negative trigger for the locks).
As far as power, just tap the red wire on the Docooler to the red power wire on the power antenna harness. That's it...as with the other systems mentioned in this thread, I just used some velcro tape and mounted the unit to the inside of the quarter panel, behind the trunk carpet. Remote range is very good...distance does not seem to be an issue with this unit. The remote fobs are of higher quality than the Omega units, with the attachment point for the keyring being larger and sturdier.Last edited by Eric Giles; 08-01-2018, 12:09 PM.Eric Giles
'20 M2 CS
'04 M3
'11 X5 35D
'87 325is
'91 325i Sport
There are few things more expensive than a cheap BMW...Comment
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I went ahead and purchased the Docooler keyless entry that Eric recommended and I'm happy to report that it works fantastic. I'm very impressed, and for $15 it's a no brainer.
The only thing to add to Eric's write up is that the black ground for the Docooler itself also needs to be grounded. This is obvious for those who are savvy with electrical, but just wanted to include that bit of info for completeness.
I also removed all of the additional unused wires from my unit for a clean install, and used heavy duty outdoor velcro rated for use at temps up to 150deg. We'll see if it holds up to the Texas heat :up:
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So I just wired this up just like you guys did. I tested it and it worked fine. Once I buttoned everything back up it stopped working.
When I hit lock/unlock the the box makes clicking sounds like a relay.
All the wires are connected just fine, no blown fuses. Any ideas?sigpicComment
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So I just wired this up just like you guys did. I tested it and it worked fine. Once I buttoned everything back up it stopped working.
When I hit lock/unlock the the box makes clicking sounds like a relay.
All the wires are connected just fine, no blown fuses. Any ideas?
The central locking system wiring is very small, 18-22AWG I believe. When I first wired this up I used 16-14AWG splice terminals and the system worked perfect upon initial installation but then became very intermittent shortly after driving the car around.
Make sure the splice terminals you are using are for 18-22AWG, similar to the red terminals in this pack:
I'll bet that fixes your issue!Comment
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Thanks, I'll check that out. did you cut the unused wires or disconnect them from the plug terminal altogether?sigpicComment
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I'm sure a small screw driver would work too if you don't have a pick.Comment
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Bumping this thread to keep the info in one place and in hopes someone can recommend a cheap alarm like this that also has remote start. Searches have only lead me to $100+ systems or dead end threads with dead links. This Docooler is lkke $18 now but searching for that brand on Amazon with remote stsrt only showed a push button which isn't what I'm looking for.Comment
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:thumbsup: to this OG post. Just installed https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it went smoothly.Comment
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