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My Favorite $30 Mod so far...(keyless entry)

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  • treystoys
    replied
    Yes that looks like the same kit 👍🏻

    Leave a comment:


  • steel330i
    replied
    Originally posted by treystoys View Post
    Hey everyone, dropping in for updated keyless kit info and install alternative.

    Here's the link to a current kit available on Amazon.

    FicBox Universal Car Door Lock Vehicle Keyless Entry System Auto Remote Central Kit with Control Box https://a.co/d/1A8ZItB

    I paid $14.99 for it a few days ago. Seems like they are set up as an industry standard for wiring purposes. Using the switched ground version of the diagram. I installed my keyless box behind the abs computer for a more direct connection to the central locking module and I wanted my blinkers to flash corresponding to the lock or unlocking, so up front wiring makes much more sense. The central locking harness can be tapped into behind and slightly above the drivers front speaker. I picked up my power and turn signal wires to the front of the abs computer where they come out of two side by side white multi pin connectors. There is a grounding bolt to the right of those as well.

    I know most of this is repeat info, but having it at the end of the thread will help the next guy…

    FicBox………………e30
    red………constant 12v supply
    black………………ground
    yellow……………..ground
    yellow/black………ground
    white……………..yellow/blue (lock signal)
    white/black………green/blue (unlock signal)
    brown1……………blue/black (right turn)
    brown2………….…blue/red (left turn)

    Here is a great little video I utilized while doing my install. Big thumbs up to Noor!



    His video is almost exactly what I followed, along with my Bentley just in case.

    *** Just wanted to note, I first attempted to install the kit in the trunk, and I was going to pick up the side marker wires for my signal lightning, but I had issues getting the unlock signal to work for some reason. It could have been that I was trying to test it with sub par temporary connections, or my main concern was I was getting a bit of voltage drop going to and from the dinky keyless box being that I was a few connections away from the actual locking system. In any event, having the keyless box up front worked better for me and it's very accessible if I want to ad more triggers to the system as it has provisions for a trunk actuation, siren and an led indicator. There is also a recoding button for the remotes.***

    Tucked away yet accessible…
    Click image for larger version  Name:	CE685EBE-A4F6-4AF4-AF15-8B193AA43963.jpg Views:	0 Size:	197.9 KB ID:	10088013
    The two provided remotes feel solid enough, and I was able to walk 150 plus feet away from the car and still trigger the system locked and unlocked. I didn't go any further because my car was in the garage and that's as far as I could get and still see the lights blinking…
    Click image for larger version  Name:	73F83C5A-DE9D-4EF7-8159-533209CD945B.jpg Views:	0 Size:	193.6 KB ID:	10088012

    Trey
    This is the kit, correct?




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • treystoys
    replied
    Hey everyone, dropping in for updated keyless kit info and install alternative.

    Here’s the link to a current kit available on Amazon.

    FicBox Universal Car Door Lock Vehicle Keyless Entry System Auto Remote Central Kit with Control Box https://a.co/d/1A8ZItB

    I paid $14.99 for it a few days ago. Seems like they are set up as an industry standard for wiring purposes. Using the switched ground version of the diagram. I installed my keyless box behind the abs computer for a more direct connection to the central locking module and I wanted my blinkers to flash corresponding to the lock or unlocking, so up front wiring makes much more sense. The central locking harness can be tapped into behind and slightly above the drivers front speaker. I picked up my power and turn signal wires to the front of the abs computer where they come out of two side by side white multi pin connectors. There is a grounding bolt to the right of those as well.

    I know most of this is repeat info, but having it at the end of the thread will help the next guy…

    FicBox………………e30
    red………constant 12v supply
    black………………ground
    yellow……………..ground
    yellow/black………ground
    white……………..yellow/blue (lock signal)
    white/black………green/blue (unlock signal)
    brown1……………blue/black (right turn)
    brown2………….…blue/red (left turn)

    Here is a great little video I utilized while doing my install. Big thumbs up to Noor!



    His video is almost exactly what I followed, along with my Bentley just in case.

    *** Just wanted to note, I first attempted to install the kit in the trunk, and I was going to pick up the side marker wires for my signal lightning, but I had issues getting the unlock signal to work for some reason. It could have been that I was trying to test it with sub par temporary connections, or my main concern was I was getting a bit of voltage drop going to and from the dinky keyless box being that I was a few connections away from the actual locking system. In any event, having the keyless box up front worked better for me and it’s very accessible if I want to ad more triggers to the system as it has provisions for a trunk actuation, siren and an led indicator. There is also a recoding button for the remotes.***

    Tucked away yet accessible…
    Click image for larger version  Name:	CE685EBE-A4F6-4AF4-AF15-8B193AA43963.jpg Views:	0 Size:	197.9 KB ID:	10088013
    The two provided remotes feel solid enough, and I was able to walk 150 plus feet away from the car and still trigger the system locked and unlocked. I didn’t go any further because my car was in the garage and that’s as far as I could get and still see the lights blinking…
    Click image for larger version  Name:	73F83C5A-DE9D-4EF7-8159-533209CD945B.jpg Views:	0 Size:	193.6 KB ID:	10088012

    Trey

    Leave a comment:


  • Thunderzol
    replied
    I did this yesterday and it works great! Thank you for all the contributors!
    Explore z_varga's photos on Flickr. z_varga has uploaded 2 photos to Flickr.

    Leave a comment:


  • zachcollard
    replied
    +1 Just did this a few weeks ago with the Docooler off Amazon. Wish I would have done it years ago. Does anyone have a link for how to wire a relay into the horn?

    Leave a comment:


  • mike.bmw
    replied
    For less than $20, this is an outstanding addition to the car. Especially when you have your hands full with 2 kids and their gear. Super quick and easy installation as well (thanks fresh_TD for hooking me up with your extra terminals)!

    Leave a comment:


  • mchang
    replied
    :thumbsup: to this OG post. Just installed https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it went smoothly.

    Leave a comment:


  • m5james
    replied
    Bumping this thread to keep the info in one place and in hopes someone can recommend a cheap alarm like this that also has remote start. Searches have only lead me to $100+ systems or dead end threads with dead links. This Docooler is lkke $18 now but searching for that brand on Amazon with remote stsrt only showed a push button which isn't what I'm looking for.

    Leave a comment:


  • zwill23
    replied
    Originally posted by aaron325ix View Post
    Thanks, I'll check that out. did you cut the unused wires or disconnect them from the plug terminal altogether?
    No problem. I disconnected the wire terminals from the plug all together. I used a pick to depress each terminal on the Docoder plug. They pop right out.

    I'm sure a small screw driver would work too if you don't have a pick.

    Leave a comment:


  • aaron325ix
    replied
    Thanks, I'll check that out. did you cut the unused wires or disconnect them from the plug terminal altogether?

    Leave a comment:


  • zwill23
    replied
    Originally posted by aaron325ix View Post
    So I just wired this up just like you guys did. I tested it and it worked fine. Once I buttoned everything back up it stopped working.

    When I hit lock/unlock the the box makes clicking sounds like a relay.

    All the wires are connected just fine, no blown fuses. Any ideas?
    Actually, I think I know exactly what you did because I did the same thing.

    The central locking system wiring is very small, 18-22AWG I believe. When I first wired this up I used 16-14AWG splice terminals and the system worked perfect upon initial installation but then became very intermittent shortly after driving the car around.

    Make sure the splice terminals you are using are for 18-22AWG, similar to the red terminals in this pack:



    I'll bet that fixes your issue!

    Leave a comment:


  • aaron325ix
    replied
    So I just wired this up just like you guys did. I tested it and it worked fine. Once I buttoned everything back up it stopped working.

    When I hit lock/unlock the the box makes clicking sounds like a relay.

    All the wires are connected just fine, no blown fuses. Any ideas?

    Leave a comment:


  • zwill23
    replied
    I went ahead and purchased the Docooler keyless entry that Eric recommended and I'm happy to report that it works fantastic. I'm very impressed, and for $15 it's a no brainer.

    The only thing to add to Eric's write up is that the black ground for the Docooler itself also needs to be grounded. This is obvious for those who are savvy with electrical, but just wanted to include that bit of info for completeness.

    I also removed all of the additional unused wires from my unit for a clean install, and used heavy duty outdoor velcro rated for use at temps up to 150deg. We'll see if it holds up to the Texas heat :up:



    Leave a comment:


  • Eric Giles
    replied
    I have my first Omega keyless entry in my '87 325is, and 9 years later it still works perfectly. But since I wasn't able to find the same thing for my latest E30 acquisition, a quick search found a cheaper unit that works just as well.

    It seems that the Docooler keyless entry system that is only $15.49 on Amazon is very popular, with overall good reviews. The real issue being that the included wiring diagram is difficult to read, and on top of that it is incorrect.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Once I got the central locking system to work (it was the infamous red/black stripe power wire that runs needlessly thru the door wiring harness), I installed the Docooler keyless entry. As I did in my 325is, I pulled back the trunk liner on the left side of the trunk and tapped into the trunk lock wiring bundle.

    As mentioned, the included wiring diagram with the Docooler is incorrect...in that what is labeled as the positive trigger setup is actually the negative trigger setup, and vice versa. Since the E30 is negative trigger, then do this:

    Connect the White (Lock) wire from the Docooler to the E30 Green/Black Stripe wire.

    Connect the White/Black stripe (Unlock) wire from the Docooler to the E30 Green/Violet Stripe wire.


    Next, take the Yellow and Yellow/Black stripe wires that come from the Docooler, along with the Black ground wire, tie them together, and connect them both to Ground. I used the ground point for the power antenna, which is a 10mm bolt on the power antenna bracket. Remember, on the wiring diagram this connection type shows it is for positive trigger...but it is incorrect. This configuration will work for your E30 (or any BMW that uses negative trigger for the locks).

    As far as power, just tap the red wire on the Docooler to the red power wire on the power antenna harness. That's it...as with the other systems mentioned in this thread, I just used some velcro tape and mounted the unit to the inside of the quarter panel, behind the trunk carpet. Remote range is very good...distance does not seem to be an issue with this unit. The remote fobs are of higher quality than the Omega units, with the attachment point for the keyring being larger and sturdier.
    Last edited by Eric Giles; 08-01-2018, 01:09 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • cspec
    replied
    Best bang for the buck mod!

    Leave a comment:

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