Put this DIY together today, since I wasn't to pleased with the existing guides.
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Rear subframe and subframe bushing removal and install
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Rear subframe and subframe bushing removal and install
Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com
Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.comTags: None
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Originally posted by noid View PostPut this DIY together today, since I wasn't to pleased with the existing guides.
http://www.rtsauto.com/e30-rear-subf...l-and-install/Last edited by KAR; 04-10-2013, 07:03 AM.KAR
'90 325i sedan
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Originally posted by KAR View PostThanks noid for the great DIY! Very helpful instructions and clear photos. I'm about to take on this same project, possibly as early as this weekend. I've got a set of AKG performance/street urethane subframe bushings ready to go, but since I'll have the whole subframe out, I decided to replace the RTABs and diff mount as well. The one aspect of this project that has me concerned is the removal of the old subframe bushings. This is my first time tackling this kind of repair, so I must admit the diagram of your home made press is a little unclear to me. Do you possibly have any photos of it? I don't own a vice and really don't' want to spend the money on one at this time (if I don't have to), so also wondered if you have any other strategies for removing the bushings?
Without a vise you can burn the subframe bushings out which will leave a metal sleeve that you can cut out with a sawzall. Use a MAPP torch not a propane torch to do it, it works X100 faster and MAPP gas is readily available and as cheap as propane, just make sure to get the appropriate trigger. A vise makes it painless to push a new OEM bushing in. Most aftermarket bushings go in by hand.
You dont really need a vise for the rear trailing arm bushings.
I covered that process here:
My way is not only faster then most traditional ways, but its also makes the trailing arm bushing come out without much resistance. Things you will need: 30mm socket Bigger C-clamp or PREFERABLY a vise Box cutter KY lube (not required, but if you have it I recommend using it) First Cut off the
Replace the Vise with a large enough C-clamp and you are set.
I don't have a picture of the setup on the vise mainly because I was wrangling the subframe myself, so I had no hands for a camera. However, it is fairly easy. You place the subframe in the vise, and on one side of the bushing you put a 1 1/2 pipe, and on the other end you put two normal sockets on the tip on the subframe tube. When you start closing the jaws of the vise the pipe will go into the subframe tube pushing the bushing out in between the sockets.Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com
Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com
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Is there anyway to do this without dropping the entire rear subframe?
Also, are there any other jobs worth doing "while in there"?
BTW - What is recommended for the new bushings? OEM? Poly? Just curious.Last edited by estoguy; 10-17-2013, 04:47 PM.Estoguy
1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"
Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives
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Originally posted by noid View PostPut this DIY together today, since I wasn't to pleased with the existing guides.
http://www.rtsauto.com/e30-rear-subf...l-and-install/
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This is a nice guide but its way easier to do it with the sir tools master kit I have no need to remove anything and you can be done in an hr or so for both sides if not less and my rental only costs 55 just an fyiOriginally posted by bmwm42PNW vulture pm me for parts
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Hey bmwm42...
This one? http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm
Anyone know if there is a place in Ontario, Canada that would rent such a tool???Last edited by estoguy; 10-18-2013, 11:04 AM.Estoguy
1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"
Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives
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Another method for removing one stuck side: Such a lil B, but I avoided crushing the hard line. Front jack wheel on the subframe cross member. Wood hit the boxy area of the body. Rear of the jack on blocks. The lag bolt, for me, kept falling out when pounding it down from the top, and cracked the aluminum inner sleeve of the bushing when I tried to thread it in further.
Last edited by eduTechnic; 02-16-2014, 12:17 AM.
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Originally posted by eduTechnic View PostAnother method for removing one stuck side: Such a lil B, but I avoided crushing the hard line. Front jack wheel on the subframe cross member. Wood hit the boxy area of the body. Rear of the jack on blocks. The lag bolt, for me, kept falling out when pounding it down from the top, and cracked the aluminum inner sleeve of the bushing when I tried to thread it in further.
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