e34 remote brake booster install

[JGood]

I can't believe he gets enough travel on that setup, being so close to the head. What if the engine were to shift back (broken/torn engine mount, due to part failure or even a collision)... you'd be SOL, your pedal would be jammed. Don't get me wrong, looks like a great setup, but I think it would be better implemented if moved over to the side more, and then have the pivot rotation vertical as opposed to horizontal... then there'd be very little chance for engine interference., and the rod would still be in almost the exact location it is now, able to pass right through that shock tower support.

That setup will still also require another pivot point to reverse the direction of rod travel relative to pedal travel, either at the booster or inside the car.


And I know the broken engine mount is a rare scenario, but I think it's worth consideration. With my m50 engine and slicks, I broke the factory m50 metal mount arm in my e30 launching the car at the drag strip, and the engine moved quite a bit. Didn't know it til afterwords when I had a shaking at idle. Would have been shitty if I tried to use the brakes at the end of the strip at 100mph and had nothing...

[Jean]

Whos car is that? I think thats the guy with the hydroboost setup right?


Would be cool to have a DIY guide on the linkages, or for him to produce/sell them.

No, if you are thinking the E30LS1 guy, not him. This is someone in europe.

[Teaguer]

Good work on welding in that extra piece. Looks way better than what you had going on before.

Jean, I have pics of that set-up in the bfc thread I linked above.

[Jonsku]

Hmm, that looks like a good setup - in any case much better than the bended sticks people are using..

I've somehow similar setup in my cabrio, there's plenty of travel-space in there so no problems with that.

This once again shows that there're as many possibilities to do the brake-linkage as there are swappers..

I can't believe he gets enough travel on that setup, being so close to the head. What if the engine were to shift back (broken/torn engine mount, due to part failure or even a collision)... you'd be SOL, your pedal would be jammed. Don't get me wrong, looks like a great setup, but I think it would be better implemented if moved over to the side more, and then have the pivot rotation vertical as opposed to horizontal... then there'd be very little chance for engine interference., and the rod would still be in almost the exact location it is now, able to pass right through that shock tower support.

Yea well, in any case in these swaps you'll have the ~1m long stick aimed at your balls with the 50kg heavier engine in front of you so the first thing I'd be worried of is not broken engine mount.. :)

[JGood]

yea well, in any case in these swaps you'll have the ~1m long stick aimed at your balls with the 50kg heavier engine in front of you so the first thing i'd be worried of is not broken engine mount.. :)

lol!

[Jean]

^ right?! Maybe we'll have to make a "stopper" on the stick lol.

Jean, I have pics of that set-up in the bfc thread I linked above.

Yep, checking it out. I still don't know 100% which way I want to go with this.

[bmwmech1]

[QUOTE=Jonsku;2967740Yea well, in any case in these swaps you'll have the ~1m long stick aimed at your balls... [/QUOTE]

Not on mine...

Garey

[JGood]

More progress today. Made a plate to go between the e34 bracket and the firewall, for support and to also cover up the huge hole where the stock e30 booster went. I cut a small hole where the linkage rod goes though, and was able to use the stock rubber boot for that part, so it is now 100% sealed (I'll make a gasket for behind the big metal plate). Now I just need to seal the area where the clutch master cylinder goes through. I'll probably do a plate with a hole just like the bracket above it, and use the stock e30 grommet.

I made a little bracket to go under the linkage, to stabilize it. I'll weld that to the frame rail and wheel housing, should be pretty strong.

You can see in the pics that clutch master cylinder has like 2mm of clearance to the wheel housing. I can't believe all of this works, there's barely any clearance in every direction! The linkage also barely touches the firewall when fully extended, which won't be a problem as it won't ever get pushed that far.














I hope you guys don't mind all of my blabbering and pictures. I know I could have used all of these pics and info before I started, so I'm hoping someone else can!

[Jean]

These pics will sure help many doing this swap!

Good work!

[Jonsku]

Accelerator cable? :)

[JGood]

Accelerator cable? :)

I think I can shorten the metal linkage (width-wise), and move the rod that pulls the cable over to directly above the pedal, and have it exit the firewall closer to the center of the car, which should work put it in a straight line to go under the engine cover and into the TB.

[Garageaholic]

This tread is direct inspiration for me to replicate the E34 setup.

It's safer using at tried/true stock setup from the E34. Your welds look great Justin and if that pedal assembly holds up through your testing, I think you'll be OK.

[Garageaholic]

My 89' is clutch pedal is different than Justin's. It looks to be a cast piece of hard plastic, which makes modifying it much more risky as it could significantly compromise its strength with no real way of bracing it.

Perspective View:


Front View:


Rear Perspective:



significantly? Maybe not. Just a slight modification. I have a plan, similar to Justin's and will soon post pictures of the outcome in a day or two.

[Jean]

Yep, it seems some late model cars came with plastic pedal vs metal, but probably a direct swap between the two?

[Garageaholic]

I'm sticking with it. I am not making significant mods to it, just hugging the clutch cylinder much closer to the side of the pedal. All the while, the new booster line will fill that void.