Originally posted by Wh33lhop
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Good ways to reduce the unsprung weight
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Originally posted by Wh33lhop View PostYeah from what I understand about your car you're already at the point of diminishing returns--it gets a lot pricier and/or less street friendly from here. If this is your only car, I'd spend the money on seat time.
Originally posted by Jb325is View PostYep. If anything, some good coilovers for adjustability. 2450 lb e30 with 225whp and good shocks should be a rocket on the track.Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020
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Originally posted by jalopi View Postit's sprung, but ditch the current battery for a miata battery
honestly going any further than that is just wasting your time man. unless you go extreme with your reductions you might net you a loss of 25-50lbs or so. you might notice the difference, but that's only a reduction of roughly 2% (that's with a generous weight guesstimate of 2500lbs)
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6hp... lol
but in all seriousness that's an interesting factoid (if it's true)
after crunching some numbers it makes sense though, my bike, which runs roughly the same 1/4 mile times as a Z06 vette, when compensating for the weight using the 8:1 formula gets you almost exactly the same amount of power
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Originally posted by e30_302 View PostReducing unsprung weight does not always equal faster laps. Case in point: I went from a 15x6 wheel to 17x9's, combined extra weight of the wheel/tire was probably 20# per corner. Lap times decreased dramatically due to the extra grip.
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Originally posted by Hooffenstein HD View PostSo you needed more grip. Retain the same amount of grip while reducing unsprung weight and post results.
Not the point. Of course if it was lighter, it would be better. But that would require very expensive new wheels, which I am not interested in buying.sigpic
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Originally posted by jalopi View Post6hp... lol
but in all seriousness that's an interesting factoid (if it's true)
after crunching some numbers it makes sense though, my bike, which runs roughly the same 1/4 mile times as a Z06 vette, when compensating for the weight using the 8:1 formula gets you almost exactly the same amount of power
Let's apply it to an 325i with boltons weighing 2700lbs and making 180hp
-Baseline 2700#, 180hp, 2700/180 = 15.00lbs per hp
-Remove 8#: 2692#, 180hp; 2692/180 = 14.96lbs per hp, .04 difference from baseline
-Add 1hp: 2700#, 181hp; 2700/181 = 14.92lbs per hp, .08 difference from baseline
So in the case of a bolt-on E30, 8lbs makes about 1/2 the difference 1hp does. So roughly 16lbs is worth 1hp.
If we use a track prepped swapped E30, say 2400lbs and 270hp
-Baseline 2400/270 = 8.889lbs per hp
-Remove 8# = 8.859lbs per hp
-Add 1hp = 8.856lbs per hp
So in this case it's roughly correct. In fact, the 8lbs/1hp rule will be spot-on when your power to weight is 8lbs per hp. Kind of makes sense, huh? :)Last edited by Wh33lhop; 05-20-2015, 05:38 PM.
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Originally posted by Eric View PostI wonder where the crossover point is between spring and u spring weight on the rear subframe.
you could try a small case diff, I think that is about 30lbs lighter. 16x8 enkei rpf1's are sub 15lbs I think.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by Wh33lhop; 05-20-2015, 05:34 PM.
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