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Old 07-09-2019, 11:00 PM   #76
Gloff
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 156
Update time!

Thank you for all the help guys. Got the head off and block torn down to the bottom end. Took a few pictures and hopefully they'll help another M42 owner and added some key search words for future M42 enthusiasts (mods let me know if this is not ok)

Got the engine on the stand


Nasty rear main seal carrier:


Front Covers off


Lower timing case was leaking for a while:



Older design metal timing chain guides. All the metal lined ones had cracking in the plastic and the intake side guide was separating from the metal. You can also see the old design idler gear sprocket. Also the exhaust side (tensioner guide) has a different mount on the old design utilizing a circlip.




Here are all the upper pan bolts on the E30 M42. Second pic shows the hidden ones that are notorious for coming loose inside the pan.




Here are all the bolts to remove the Timing Case from the block. Make sure you have 13 total removed before trying to pull it off.
#1 is a 16mm M10 bolt (47NM)
#2s are two 6mm M8 allen fillister head screws (cap screws) and one 13mm M8 on the upper right on the early M42, and three 6mm allen fillister head on the newer timing case. All three bolts have been superseded to torx bolts. (22NM)
#3s are M6x20 10mm bolts(10NM)
#4s are M6x30 10mm bolts(10NM)
#5s are M8 13mm bolts(22NM)
#6 is M6x50 10mm bolts (10NM)
Torque settings in the photo as well.


Nastyness after removing the the timing case:




All cleaned up! Used a razor blade held at a slight angle (since it's cast iron) and some brake cleaner and the garbage came off pretty easily.


One of the lower pan holes was stripped out, and the helicoil came out. I suggest timeserts instead of helicoils, require slightly more work, but well worth it as the inserts are steel and should last and hold torque better. I also cross threaded the new timing case at one of the upper oil pan bolts, so I put a timesert there too! It's nerve racking drilling into the timing case with the open sump right there! Oil helps keep the metal shavings clumped and reduces the chances they fly around.




These things are amazing. The inserts expand at the bottom to lock it into the hole and is like a sleeve that holds tighter than a helicoil. I've used them to great success on the valve cover gasket bolt holes, luckily I had the kit still from when I did that years ago, just so happened to be M6 thread inserts! SCORE.
1: Drill out the hole
2: Countersink to allow the insert to fully seat below the surface
3: Tap the hole for the insert
4: Use the tool to put in the insert.


Google Keywords that will help future M42 tinkerers: M42 Timing Case m42 timing guides m42 rebuild m42 reseal m42 rear main seal e36 m42 head on e30 m42
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:04 AM   #77
Gloff
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Anyone know the torque values for the timing chain guide rails?
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1991 BMW 318i Alpinweiß II Slicktop 231,000 Miles Build date: Wednesday, 1/30/1991
2003 BMW Z4 2.5i Sterlinggrau Metallic 112,000 Miles Build Date: Monday 12/9/2002
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Old 07-16-2019, 01:48 PM   #78
Gloff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloff View Post
Anyone know the torque values for the timing chain guide rails?
I went with 10nm on the fillister head bolts (M6) and 22nm on the tensioner rail mounting bolt (M8)

Also, for reference, the bolts in the lower timing cover that need to be replaced if you're doing an A/C Delete are M8x30 for the top, and M8x80 for the lower one, you can go as high as M8x85 for the lower one.
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2003 BMW Z4 2.5i Sterlinggrau Metallic 112,000 Miles Build Date: Monday 12/9/2002
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