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Do you have new shifter bushings?

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    Do you have new shifter bushings?

    I don't know how tight a new shifter is. My shifter moves about one and a half inches when in gear with the clutch engaged. How good is it when you have new bushings in the shift arms. In my pickup (also with 100,000 miles and a lot longer shifter) it moves about 1/2".
    I'm trying to decide if it's worth doing the bushing job.

    #2
    This is our comprehensive shifter thread. It should have more than you ever wanted to know.



    Personally, I was not impressed with the tightness of my shifter with all new stock bushings. Some can be replaced with brass or delrin bushings for a better feel. You should have a good idea of what you want to do after looking through the above thread.

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      #3
      Me too on the whole "Not Impressed" thing.

      Don't even want to think about removing the transmission to fix it until the swap.

      Closing SOON!
      "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

      Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

      Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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        #4
        I LOVE my shift bushings, James criv and i machined our own. his mtech has brass and my 90 325is has aluminum... you wanna talk about no play :-)

        1987 PRO-3 car /1990 325is (2.7i Concours)

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          #5
          I highly recommend getting the UUC Delrin shift carrier bushing. I have it in my car and it greatly reduces slop.

          -Erik

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            #6
            I can talk about no play also. solid aluminum bushings make for one helluva shifter. i love it.

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              #7
              I've been meaning to do this for too long. I have the UUC delrin carrier bushings sitting in a box with new selector rod joint, washers, foam plug, rear mount, bitch clip, the list goes on.
              Jay

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                #8
                I just finished mine up with a modified selector rod joint(bearings counter sunk into it),a UUC evo2 with bearings on the lower ,a new selector rod derlin carrier etc...
                It is a night and day difference from what it was but on mine there will allways be a little side play in the selector shaft of the tranny itself.
                My linkage is as tight as a nuns asshole and the shifter still moves roughly 1/2" side to side in gear.
                But again night and day from sloppy 166,000 mile factory stuff.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by 86espowa View Post
                  I can talk about no play also. solid aluminum bushings make for one helluva shifter. i love it.
                  Aluminum bushings FTW!!!!!!!!!!

                  1987 PRO-3 car /1990 325is (2.7i Concours)

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                    #10
                    Any machinists out there willing to make a few brass/aluminum shifter bushings for us track rats?


                    -Brandon

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by blazing View Post
                      My linkage is as tight as a nuns asshole...
                      Ummm....

                      :)

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                        #12
                        I don't have solid bushing in my e30 but when I put solid bronze bushing in my 300zx it was a HUGE different.

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                          #13
                          e30 shifters = teh suck, especially sheet metal console type...
                          Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                          OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by BrandC View Post
                            Any machinists out there willing to make a few brass/aluminum shifter bushings for us track rats?
                            All you need is a drill and some bits.

                            Go to your local hardware store (ace, true value etc.) Get some brass bushings/bearings.

                            1/2"OD 3/8"ID

                            You may have to slightly drill them out/sand the outside depending on how worn your parts are, make sure to test fit a lot and go in small steps untill you get them fitting perfectly a micrometer is helpful here. they are soft enough that they will expand if you force them over the rod, so be careful. It takes a little time and patience, but it worked well for me and only cost $8 or so for everything.

                            I have about 1/16" front to back, and 1/4" side to side play in neutral, this could probably be reduced with a new selector rod, but I didn't think to order one.

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