M42 won't start

[Hick]

Low voltage in non running is due to a bad battery which can cause a car to not run or run poorly, even if it is able to start. Test at the alternator, starter, battery, and positive distribution block for voltage.

Im trying to figure out why a car that ran fine and then was parked would not start after sitting for a while.

You can also try the starter fluid test and see if it tries to start [ie spray it in the intake] If it does then you have spark and no fuel.

EDIT: This is a godawful way of trying to fix these things but if you go methodically through the system you may find your problem. Its the 'Shotgun' approach to repair.

[KenC]

Low voltage in non running is due to a bad battery which can cause a car to not run or run poorly, even if it is able to start. Test at the alternator, starter, battery, and positive distribution block for voltage.

There should be constant voltage at all components listed above, correct? What value am I looking for? 13.8?

[Hick]

12v system, 13.8 is good.

Try getting it to go with starter fluid so then we know if its a fuel delivery issue.

[KenC]

12v system, 13.8 is good.

Try getting it to go with starter fluid so then we know if its a fuel delivery issue.

Plugs were damp when I removed them last night so fuel is getting to the cylinders.

[Hick]

So what do you know so far? Im having a hard time trying to understand why a car that ran fine before being parked will not start.

[nando]

OHM out the CPS.

ICV isn't going to prevent a start, nor will the TPS.

the ICV can prevent starting - since it needs to open up a few % to let air in the motor while cranking. it might start up if it's not opening, but it will die shortly after.

[KenC]

So what do you know so far? Im having a hard time trying to understand why a car that ran fine before being parked will not start.

You and me both man! haha

Getting fuel, but no spark.

It cranks over fine, but doesn't fire up.
All of the electronics seem to function fine.

Both crank and cam sensors are within ohm range. Swapped an ECU, didn't help.
Pedal code = no faults

I'm going to swap in some other plugs, but I don't see how they could all fail at the same time.

[James Crivellone]

try holding the throttle to the floor, and try starting it..

[KenC]

the ICV can prevent starting - since it needs to open up a few % to let air in the motor while cranking. it might start up if it's not opening, but it will die shortly after.

The ICV was bought new from the dealer and has maybe 20k on it.

The engine doesnt even sound like it is starting and dying.

[restoration]

Do you have a bad connection on solenoid, starter, battery, coil pack, It obviously seems elctrical so maybe bad relay or fuse, I got a m42 to and I am freckin stumped

[KenC]

try holding the throttle to the floor, and try starting it..

What would that indicate if it starts?

[James Crivellone]

What would that indicate if it starts?

Increased Oil consumption that is fouling the plugs, and/or a fuel problem

[KenC]

Increased Oil consumption that is fouling the plugs, and/or a fuel problem

I know there is fuel getting to the cylinders.

I'm going to swap in some good plugs and see if it makes it start.

[Hick]

Know how to check for a spark?

Take a wire, plug it into another plug and ground it on the engine. Have someone crank and take a looksie. DO NOT HOLD THE WIRE/PLUG

Temp sensors like to do crazy things with motronic management but they usually still run/sputter with a bad coolant temp sensor

[KenC]

UPDATE:

Spark plugs ARE firing. Fuel IS reaching cylinder. Joe put the plug wires over the plug holes and they shot out when it turned over so I'm assuming there is compresssion (that and they all tested 200 +/- 10% about a month ago).

WTF?

Is it a mixture issue? What controls that at start up? Both the AFM and the ICV are fairly new.

Could something have caused the timing to become off? The car ran fine that morning.

I'm at a loss.