One is an adjuster for wheel angle, the other is moving the pickups on the chassis (subframe) and they DO NOT have the same effect.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
raising trailing arm brackets
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by AndrewBird View PostYeah, that DTM adjuster is awesome. Camber and toe adjustable from one side. I'm already thinking about how I could replicate it. I wonder if it's $230 per side or for both sides?
Many years ago, I loaned that outboard adjuster assembly out of one of my spare Gruppe A trailing arms to a "friend" who then flaked and lost it, left it behind in a divorce, dog ate his homework, never saw or heard from him again, etc, etc.
End result is I now am now (still) missing an adjuster assembly out of one of my trailing arms.
To get someone to replicate a one off was going to be expensive.
I too am curious if that is for a pair or each, a pair would be a great deal, but even each,,, would still be cheaper than a normal person (who isnt a machinist) could make one.Jimmy P.
87 E30 M3 Prodrive British Touring Car
88 E30 M3 Zinnoberot - Garage Queen
88 E30 M3 Lachsilber - SCCA SPU #98
92 M Technic Cabrio - S14 Powered!
98 318Ti Morea Green
04 Ford F350 Dually Tow Machine
Comment
-
Originally posted by kronus View Postvery very little, maybe 2-3mm. subframe may rub on the chassis in the middle, even.
Especially if you still use a stock gas tank (vs a fuel cell), the combination of raised subframe and slotted adjusters can be a real PITA to actually adjust.Jimmy P.
87 E30 M3 Prodrive British Touring Car
88 E30 M3 Zinnoberot - Garage Queen
88 E30 M3 Lachsilber - SCCA SPU #98
92 M Technic Cabrio - S14 Powered!
98 318Ti Morea Green
04 Ford F350 Dually Tow Machine
Comment
-
Originally posted by JimmyP View PostYep, I know more than a few racers who said f - it and cut adjustment windows in the backseat area to access the TA bolts afterwards.
Especially if you still use a stock gas tank (vs a fuel cell), the combination of raised subframe and slotted adjusters can be a real PITA to actually adjust.
I think that DTM type adjustment kit looks pretty slick, it's the best setup I can remember seeing that an end user can weld in themselves. Looks promising for end of 2019 upgrades :)
Comment
-
I've got my subframe coming back together for installation in the next week or two. I raised the IE brackets up by 12mm. I'm using IE subframe bushings, but stock rubber TA bushings.
One thing I've realized is that raising the pivot point up by 12mm also increases the lever-arm on the bracket so I've significantly beefed up the strength of the bracket welding. The other factor is that there will be a stronger fore-aft twisting force on the subframe during braking and acceleration which will put more strain on the diff bushing (and the diff cover).
The paint is Eastwood 2k Epoxy from a rattle can. Incredibly tough!
I also noticed that the IE serrated tabs come in two different "flavors". The serration on one kind is slightly offset from where the serration on the other. If my toe won't fall into a good range I could switch tabs. My math says that each notch is about 1/4 degree.
The nut is also welded to the plate, so this will be single-wrench adjustable from the inside. We'll see how that goes...
Comment
-
Originally posted by JimmyP View PostUnless you are a machinist and have access to the machines and the skills to do it, or a bro hookup with someone who does I doubt you can replicate for less than what they are asking.
Time to actually work on it is the scarcity for me.
Comment
-
Originally posted by cwlo View PostInstead of the slotted TA mounts, you should consider the DTM style adjuster. Can't remember who, but some vendor has it for $200 or so, and adjustment would be so much easier.Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.
massivebrakes.com
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056
Comment
-
Originally posted by Massive Lee View PostThe DTM subframe was raised. And so were the trailing arm pick-up points. And those were heavily reinforced. Raising the subframe by 12mm is more than enough to get rid of a lot of camber and toe. Raising it by 9mm is not enough. Must be 12mm. I'd say that if the subframe risers came from Ireland Engineering, then they didn't do their engineering homework.e30sport.net
'15 Porsche GT3 - 7-speed PDK - Daily Driver
'86 325es - s54b32tu - 6-speed - Mtech 1
'89 325is - m20b25 - 5-speed - Individual
Comment
-
I had an original and unused DTM subframe for a week to take measures. The subframe is indeed raised by 12mm. The bell holding the diff is also different from a stock one.Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.
massivebrakes.com
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056
Comment
-
hey so just to get this straight.
raising the subframe 12mm will do the same thing as raising the car 12mm?
period. nothing else?
Does raising the subframe up 12mm mean the ride height will change 12mm or at all?
Garagistic is your one-stop source to performance BMW parts. From Grip, street, show or drift, we got the parts your BMW needs. We carry BMW parts for your E30, E36, E46, E82, E92 and much more!
The 12mm raised subframe bushings reduces camber by 4.0 - 4.5 degrees (better for a street application).
Average change is from -5 degrees to -1.5 degrees (depends on suspension setup).
For something so basic to the e30 there's not allot of facts out there about it.Last edited by LowR3V'in; 03-26-2019, 09:15 AM.
Comment
Comment