Best bang for the buck brake upgrade.

[graphikg]

What is the best upgrade for the buck?

1. Just upgraded pads and fluid with SS lines?

2. UUC BBK

3. Massive Lee's BBK

4. Mazda 4 pistons, with Corrado Rotors (Are there any other rotors that can go with these Calipers?)

5. The Evo 8 Brakes - we just dont know how to do it yet or what the cost is.


--- I am leaning towards the Mazda Junk kit. - Just have not figured out if there is an adapter needed fron the caliper to the lines.

[caliGreen]

Great Question; Ive got the Same Question? Anybody have any answers?


Im New to the Community(fourm) btw.. Yo

[e30e]

The cheapest is a good set of pads.

[graphikg]

Ok, let me elaborate. The reason I also have this question is because I got a 24v sitting under the hood. --- But I also don't want to drop 1g on a BBK (though it would be nice). So whats the best bang for the buck? I am leaning towards the Mazda brake upgrade, but hav not heard much about how satisfied people are with it.

[pogiboy9]

I guess if you really had too, IMO the RX7/Mazda upgrades with VW Rotors.......otherwise probably try a nice set of PADs and possibly MC and BrakeBooster change...

[e30nub]

Danny's got a set ready to go.

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=165164

EDIT: Just realized you replied in that thread.

[graphikg]

Thanks for the lookout. But the thing is I already have my own calipers. I still need the rotors though (and maybe an adapter for the brake lines which I am not sure of what to use), but I just wanted to know if it was worth it.

[E30Idea]

I put super blue fluid, SS line's, and rebuild all 4 calipers on my car for under $200 and its is amazing how good they feel. I have a very good set of pad's to start with but these items made them 300% better.

GL

[e34john]

^
Where did you get the caliper rebuild kit?

OP. I would just do a complete service with fluids and lines etc. Then get good pads and sticky tires.

[e30guydownunder]

pelican have caliper seals and guide kits for both girling and ATE calipers.

For sure the best bang for buck is good pads, SS lines and fluid. Maybe thru in some high quality ducting if you end up having some fade issues.

The next step is a homebrew BBK. If you get your hands on some nice alloy fixed calipers then you are well on your way.

If your going with the Mazda junk, I would highly recommend using Lee's newly developed 2 piece "VW Corrado" Rotors. He modified the dimensions slightly so they are perfect for the E30 and will also work with the Mazda junk. He currently has some nice introductory pricing on these.

Then all you need is to develop a bracket for the caliper and your done.

[SkinnyVT]

Are you using your car only for DD and autox or is there going to be track duty involved?

My typical approach is to try and do it right the first time, so I would suggest good pads and fluid for now and save cash for a little while and then get one of Lee's sport or race kits, don't dick around with a smaller kit.

[jlevie]

With appropriate pads, the stock brakes on an E30 are easily able to overwhelm race slicks and lock up the wheels. That suggests that a big brake kit isn't needed as far as stopping power is concerned. Though a big brake kit does have advantages in thermal management.

[Massive Lee]

I instructed at a race school this weekend. I stumbled on one of my clients. He spent one whole race season on the same set of 300x21mm rotors and H compound pads. When I saw the car, the rotors had at least another season left on them, so did the pad. Car had an M20 last year, and an S52 this year (3 events on the new swap). Car is a gutted race car. Obvioulsy results will vary with types of driving, pads and track. But, instead of spending $70 on a quart of expensive synthetic brake fluid, at each event, to fight the heat from a bad OEM brake system, perhaps it becomes more economical on the long run to spend a bit more in the beginning.

BTW autocrossers and racers/lappers don't have the same requirements at all. A 90 second stint or 25 minute run won't require the same brakes. And autocrossers will usually want the lightest set-up possible, as long as it last 90 secondes ;-)

Alex Lipovich runs the Sport kit with his own personal twist. He asked for autocross discs, actually more holes than friction surface ;-), and lighter/smaller Dynapro calipers and some pads I will keep secret. So, basically, one kit will not fit all. Better be clear with what you expect and pick the right components for your application.

Rebuilt RX7 calipers and Corrado rotors will be a great DIY improvement over stock if you install proper pads. Make sure they fit your wheels.

[Massive Lee]

With appropriate pads, the stock brakes on an E30 are easily able to overwhelm race slicks and lock up the wheels. That suggests that a big brake kit isn't needed as far as stopping power is concerned. Though a big brake kit does have advantages in thermal management.

Which is totally true if using proper pads. The problem is that the stock brakes will start going after a few laps while a good BBK will alow you to do an enduro and have the exact same pedal feel and predictability after 2 hours as you had on the first lap... Predictability and confidence in your brakes when approaching a corner at high speed is what makes you go faster.

Also. Locking up the wheels is not what you necessarely want. You want enough braking modulation before it happens. Which is what a good and stiff caliper will get you, while the stock calipers will soon become on-off switches when fluid starts boiling.

[rwh11385]

Best bang for the buck is good pads for your application (auto-x HP+, or HT-10 at the track, or spring for carbotech, etc.) and SS lines. Don't believe the hype over you needing a BBK from a guy selling the BBKs!

If you go to track events, there's majority of E30s with stock rotors and good pads and they run fast! Generally it is the fuh raze guys who don't have much experience but want the bling factor that opt for BBKs, thinking that they are "needed"