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When did you buy these swap arms? Maybe it was just from an old batch?
I ordered them January 16, 2017. I don't actually know that my fitment issues aren't unique to my car, it is 34 years old and the subframe or frame rails may have been tweaked by an impact. There's no obvious signs of an accident, but who knows.
My last swap was an e30 5.0 and the 5.0 was easier to fit in there.
I have heard of some M30 blocks not having the same motor mount holes in the block as other M30s, but I’m still pretty sure all B35s are the same.
This is what my motor mounts look like on my block.
I think my mods to the mount arms were successful, as the motor sits in the bay correctly now, but I haven't driven it yet. It is running now and I am working out some cooling system connections, so a road test is imminent.
On a side note, the m30 is a proven low mile motor that was running perfect before pulling it from a 735. I did an oil and filter change about 2 months ago and then fired it up 2 weeks ago and my oil pressure light stayed on. Checked everything, fired it up again, and the oil pressure light would not turn off. After much reading it seems this happens to m30's, so I followed the advice on some forum post and filled up the filter canister and jacked up the back end of the car higher than the front. Fired it up and the oil light went off in less than a second.
I got mine dealt with. I have been driving it for 2 weeks now with no issues.
Here's what I did:
1. Slotted motor mount holes and measured how far back I needed the motor and got the rest of the slot welded in so it can't shift during spirited driving. Everything clears radiator including AC compressor (3mm gap). Clears firewall as well.
2. Had to do the M5x protocol with the brake booster. So I moved it over 1/2" to clear the intake manifold. Now I have about 3/8" between the two.
3. Switch to Revshift 80a poly mounts. No noticeable difference in driving quality (noise and vibration) and keeps the engine much more planted. I drove around with the hood off and did some hard braking and cornering and was pleased with the outcome.
5. Stack a thick washer (1/8" thick) on top of each mount to lift the motor off the steering rack. It didn't need to be lifted much to avoid contact so just one washer worked.
I'm really happy with the motor fitment now and the Revshift mounts. Everywhere I read said the poly mounts were really bad for daily driving (I'm guessing most are bad because they are through-bolt while the Revshift is not), but these are perfect for my picky driving comfort. I didn't want to shift the brake booster, but it was the only way to clear the intake manifold with the motor so far back. Now that it is done, I'm happy I did, but that job SUCKS. Clearing the AC compressor was also a big deal for me because I want AC.
1986 325e Pearl White on Grey Houndstooth 24x,xxx miles M30b35 Swapped
2002 525i Jet Black on Sand Beige 13x,xxx miles
"This 2.5 liter inline six cylinder is smoother than my silk Versace underwear." -Vehicle Virgins
Weird that you needed to shift the booster, on most M30 swaps it fits fine.
Plenty of room on mine with the engine back in P3 (so about as far back as it can go and the bowl of the sump still clear the steering rack ok).
I know, not a single swap guide or discussion mentioned anyone having to do this. Which is the reason I blame the mount arms by garagistic. When it was taking forever to get them, I called garagistic and they said they were being redesigned (June 2017) so the most recent batch is probably the issue.
1986 325e Pearl White on Grey Houndstooth 24x,xxx miles M30b35 Swapped
2002 525i Jet Black on Sand Beige 13x,xxx miles
"This 2.5 liter inline six cylinder is smoother than my silk Versace underwear." -Vehicle Virgins
I got mine dealt with. I have been driving it for 2 weeks now with no issues.
Here's what I did:
1. Slotted motor mount holes and measured how far back I needed the motor and got the rest of the slot welded in so it can't shift during spirited driving. Everything clears radiator including AC compressor (3mm gap). Clears firewall as well.
2. Had to do the M5x protocol with the brake booster. So I moved it over 1/2" to clear the intake manifold. Now I have about 3/8" between the two.
3. Switch to Revshift 80a poly mounts. No noticeable difference in driving quality (noise and vibration) and keeps the engine much more planted. I drove around with the hood off and did some hard braking and cornering and was pleased with the outcome.
5. Stack a thick washer (1/8" thick) on top of each mount to lift the motor off the steering rack. It didn't need to be lifted much to avoid contact so just one washer worked.
I'm really happy with the motor fitment now and the Revshift mounts. Everywhere I read said the poly mounts were really bad for daily driving (I'm guessing most are bad because they are through-bolt while the Revshift is not), but these are perfect for my picky driving comfort. I didn't want to shift the brake booster, but it was the only way to clear the intake manifold with the motor so far back. Now that it is done, I'm happy I did, but that job SUCKS. Clearing the AC compressor was also a big deal for me because I want AC.
Post some photos!
Glad you got it figured out. Mine is suuuuuper tight between the radiator and the AC compressor. Like, microscopic separation between the two. I don't think I can go any further back without bashing the firewall further either.
Finally got it on the road again. I have been working out some little stuff, but at least the motor now seems to be in the right position in the bay. I have the g240 with a stage 2 clutch, the clutch action is a bit chattery but not terrible. The power is fine, probably similar to my e36 m3. My 5.0 e30 definitely feels quicker, probably because of the 300 torques.
Engine bay and distributor relative to radiator. Pretty tight. A 5.0 fits a lot easier until you deal with the driver side exhaust and boosterless brakes.
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