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OIL PAN Gasket Replacement Tips

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    #16
    Originally posted by DCColegrove View Post
    The OEM cork gaskets leak eventually because they harden and the asymmetric expansion and contraction of the pan and block plus the vibration pulverizes them after a while...

    The composite (cardboard like) ones only leak if installed with too much goop on them because of that same scrubbing action between the block and pan, the goop comes unstuck.

    This tech information (SOP) is backed by 27 years of BMW oil pan gasket leaks (I've probably done like 300+(???) in that time) and I know what (and how long it took) to come back leaking again.
    anyone know the part number for a composite (cardboard like) good gasket?

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      #17
      Originally posted by DCColegrove View Post
      The OEM cork gaskets leak eventually because they harden and the asymmetric expansion and contraction of the pan and block plus the vibration pulverizes them after a while...

      The composite (cardboard like) ones only leak if installed with too much goop on them because of that same scrubbing action between the block and pan, the goop comes unstuck.

      This tech information (SOP) is backed by 27 years of BMW oil pan gasket leaks (I've probably done like 300+(???) in that time) and I know what (and how long it took) to come back leaking again.
      have a part number for the good gasket? composite (cardboard like)

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        #18
        Originally posted by DCColegrove View Post
        The OEM cork gaskets leak eventually because they harden and the asymmetric expansion and contraction of the pan and block plus the vibration pulverizes them after a while...

        The composite (cardboard like) ones only leak if installed with too much goop on them because of that same scrubbing action between the block and pan, the goop comes unstuck.

        This tech information (SOP) is backed by 27 years of BMW oil pan gasket leaks (I've probably done like 300+(???) in that time) and I know what (and how long it took) to come back leaking again.

        have a part number for the good gasket? composite (cardboard like)
        Last edited by johnwoo; 10-09-2008, 06:14 PM.

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          #19
          John, go to the dealership and ask them. I'm sure Pelican Parts will know too.

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            #20
            How long has it taken you guys to do the job from start to finish...
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            Rediculously Cool!

            www.squatchboxx.com

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              #21
              Itll probably take 2 hours on a lift...I had to do it on my back once. Took half a day from jack up to jack down.

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                #22
                Thanks a bunch. That is what I needed. I will be doing on jackstands if I am to tackle this. Will see what I decide to do.
                sigpic
                Rediculously Cool!

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by r0meyrome View Post
                  Itll probably take 2 hours on a lift...I had to do it on my back once. Took half a day from jack up to jack down.
                  sweet im glad i have access to a lift then lol. probably have to do this on saturday.

                  Patrick - IG:niicknac
                  RIP 1987 BMW 325is - S50'd ZF 6-speed, flared, bagged

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                    #24
                    For just about any gasket I've found Elring Curil K2 to be the best for most applications like this.

                    Its non harding so it can shift and form over time for continuous sealing AND it smells like Krispy Kream donut glaze.. but don't eat it.



                    I believe BMA carrys it at around $14 a 75ml tube.

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                      #25
                      I used toyota FIPG!

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                        #26
                        I'm about to do this soon. I have the gasket....do I need any type of sealant and do I need to put it over the entire gasket or just the corners?
                        1997 Artic Silver M3
                        CES GT4094r 651hp/615tq @ 24 psi

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                          #27
                          a very small, very thin layer over the corners. If you use to much the gasket will push out and you will have another leak.

                          I ended up using straight RTV (loctite 5699 grey), no gasket. After building a couple SR20's, JDM mfg's kinda know how to build motors that don't leak.



                          Derek
                          DedericMS

                          All-Red/MHW style Professional Tinted Tail lights
                          PnP EMS, fuel injectors, wideband o2 systems

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Alexis Jung View Post
                            I'm about to do this soon. I have the gasket....do I need any type of sealant and do I need to put it over the entire gasket or just the corners?
                            This is what you need to cover both sides of gasket, block, and pan with. Let tack for 5 mins, install, and enjoy a clean driveway!

                            Turbo e30 M52. Built Motor, GT3582r
                            Watch my vids http://www.youtube.com/user/GrudgeRider156?feature=mhum

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                              #29
                              anyone have any trouble removing the bell housing case even after the 4 bolts holding it were removed...what gives? all bolts to pan and bell housing are out...

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by peerless View Post
                                I agree with the above.

                                I can't stand cork gaskets and I really can't stand RTV either. I have seen more oil leaks caused by rtv then not. In most case's rtv sealer is not applied correctly and this will almost always cause a leak sooner then if the gasket was simply applied correctly with no sealer.

                                I personally use a non-hardening liquid aviation gasket sealer/adhesive. I typically only use it on one side to secure the gasket to the mating surface.

                                RTV :down:

                                This information is backed by 20+yrs of general automotive repair experience.
                                Certainly agree.

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