Hello Friends,
Hoping I could get some advice here. The car sat even before I had a bunch of work done and I think I've exhausted my brain and body troubleshooting this. I've pretty much disassembled the entire rear suspension, put it down on the floor, and carefully reassembled to spec checking proper function after every step. I am taking it back to the shop tomorrow morning but if any of you have any ideas they would be greatly appreciated.
Measuring from the bottom of the rim to the fender flare gives me 18 3/8" driver and 18 3/4" passenger.
Work done so far front and rear. The shop did front struts bushings, I did everything else:
Control arms, ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, IE poly rear shock towers, poly rear sway bar bushings for stock sway bar, OEM fixed adjustment end links, IE Stage 3 springs, spring pads, Koni Single Adjustables, strut tower tops/bearings, fixed camber plates, subframe bushings, and I do believe they installed trailing arm bushings even though I still have a pack of poly RTABs (I think I had two sets).
Pending:
IE Front sway bar poly bushings for stock sway bar.
Here's what I found wrong with it when I got it back from the shop and what I did/tried to fix the lean.
Problems stemming from the work:
Axle/CV Joint @ Driver's Side Diff was hanging by 2 loose bolts and tire side CV Boot is sliced - Replace/Repair.
Rear hubs are missing wheel bearing retainers/axle nut lock plate. One was dangling over the collar nut on the driver’s side and the passenger side was completely missing. BMW Part # 33411124945. Parts are in box on passenger floor along with the old part for inspection.
Front Driver Side Strut – Pushing down hard on the driver’s side produces a sound. Please take for a test drive and go over bumps with it and/or inspect. I have returned the front struts to softest setting and that alleviated most of the sound.
Steering Wheel Knock - Something binding up front when turning, could be related to driver’s side strut. – FIXED – TIE ROD ENDS STAMPED WITH "L" and "R" WERE REVERSED!
Rear End Suspension - Either one rear corner sagging or one rear corner jacked up. Sat perfectly even before. Upon inspection I noticed passenger side spring pads were reversed (knob was on bottom instead of top). I thought this would be the culprit and I flipped them but the rear is still crooked. I am not sure if the trailing arm bushings were replaced, not sure what else might affect ride-height on a refreshed suspension if the shocks are not binding. Measuring from bottom of rim to bottom center of fender flare gives 18 3/8” on rear driver and 18 3/4” rear passenger. I swapped the left and right springs to see if there was any difference and ride height is the same as it was before. I checked the sway bar while it was detached from the trailing arms and it does not bind. Please inspect the subframe bushings as well, although they look even to me I am not a professional.
Rear Spring Pads – Lower pad was ripped clean through because driver side spring was mounted upside down. Old lower pad used for passenger side for ease of replacement. Torn new spring pad in box on the passenger floor for inspection.
Rear Shock Towers – Passenger missing gasket, both new gaskets were installed on car. While replacing gasket and diagnosing/repairing rear suspension lean please return the rear shocks to softest setting + 1/16” turn firm to prevent damage to adjustment cam. It is clockwise firm and counterclockwise soft for the Koni 80 series. I have already set the front struts to softest setting + 1/16” turn firm to prevent damage to adjustment cam. Front struts are counterclockwise firm and clockwise soft.
Work requested but not completed:
Diff Bushing. Part is in box on passenger floor.
Center Support Bearing. Part is in box on passenger floor.
Trailing Arm Bushings - Inner & Outer. I don’t know if these were replaced. Please inspect for damage if they were replaced as this could affect ride height. Parts are in the box on passenger floor.
Hoping I could get some advice here. The car sat even before I had a bunch of work done and I think I've exhausted my brain and body troubleshooting this. I've pretty much disassembled the entire rear suspension, put it down on the floor, and carefully reassembled to spec checking proper function after every step. I am taking it back to the shop tomorrow morning but if any of you have any ideas they would be greatly appreciated.
Measuring from the bottom of the rim to the fender flare gives me 18 3/8" driver and 18 3/4" passenger.
Work done so far front and rear. The shop did front struts bushings, I did everything else:
Control arms, ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, IE poly rear shock towers, poly rear sway bar bushings for stock sway bar, OEM fixed adjustment end links, IE Stage 3 springs, spring pads, Koni Single Adjustables, strut tower tops/bearings, fixed camber plates, subframe bushings, and I do believe they installed trailing arm bushings even though I still have a pack of poly RTABs (I think I had two sets).
Pending:
IE Front sway bar poly bushings for stock sway bar.
Here's what I found wrong with it when I got it back from the shop and what I did/tried to fix the lean.
Problems stemming from the work:
Axle/CV Joint @ Driver's Side Diff was hanging by 2 loose bolts and tire side CV Boot is sliced - Replace/Repair.
Rear hubs are missing wheel bearing retainers/axle nut lock plate. One was dangling over the collar nut on the driver’s side and the passenger side was completely missing. BMW Part # 33411124945. Parts are in box on passenger floor along with the old part for inspection.
Front Driver Side Strut – Pushing down hard on the driver’s side produces a sound. Please take for a test drive and go over bumps with it and/or inspect. I have returned the front struts to softest setting and that alleviated most of the sound.
Steering Wheel Knock - Something binding up front when turning, could be related to driver’s side strut. – FIXED – TIE ROD ENDS STAMPED WITH "L" and "R" WERE REVERSED!
Rear End Suspension - Either one rear corner sagging or one rear corner jacked up. Sat perfectly even before. Upon inspection I noticed passenger side spring pads were reversed (knob was on bottom instead of top). I thought this would be the culprit and I flipped them but the rear is still crooked. I am not sure if the trailing arm bushings were replaced, not sure what else might affect ride-height on a refreshed suspension if the shocks are not binding. Measuring from bottom of rim to bottom center of fender flare gives 18 3/8” on rear driver and 18 3/4” rear passenger. I swapped the left and right springs to see if there was any difference and ride height is the same as it was before. I checked the sway bar while it was detached from the trailing arms and it does not bind. Please inspect the subframe bushings as well, although they look even to me I am not a professional.
Rear Spring Pads – Lower pad was ripped clean through because driver side spring was mounted upside down. Old lower pad used for passenger side for ease of replacement. Torn new spring pad in box on the passenger floor for inspection.
Rear Shock Towers – Passenger missing gasket, both new gaskets were installed on car. While replacing gasket and diagnosing/repairing rear suspension lean please return the rear shocks to softest setting + 1/16” turn firm to prevent damage to adjustment cam. It is clockwise firm and counterclockwise soft for the Koni 80 series. I have already set the front struts to softest setting + 1/16” turn firm to prevent damage to adjustment cam. Front struts are counterclockwise firm and clockwise soft.
Work requested but not completed:
Diff Bushing. Part is in box on passenger floor.
Center Support Bearing. Part is in box on passenger floor.
Trailing Arm Bushings - Inner & Outer. I don’t know if these were replaced. Please inspect for damage if they were replaced as this could affect ride height. Parts are in the box on passenger floor.
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