So, still no solutions for working ABS on e36 5-lug??

[xer0trigger]

The effective range above 8mph would explain why the ABS light usually doesn't kick on until you drive faster than 10mph.

It would be very interesting if they switched from a VR sensor in the earlier models to a Hall in the later ones. I don't really think that's the case however, since the part# is the same for any year, any model E36.

I wish I had my hands on an early 325i sensor, which apparently is 2-wire. At least then I could compare the two. I mean, I'm assuming that since the part# is the same across all years and models, that the connector must have spots for 3 connections but only two are filled?

If I wasn't having a miniature hurricane outside right now I'd go pull the damn thing and fiddle with it. But it's going to have to wait.

[hoveringuy]

On the other hand, VR sensors have the advantage of being extremely rugged and capable of withstanding tremendous heat. (brakes... ring a bell?)

[xer0trigger]

Well, curiosity got the best of me and I had to go out there in the rain and pull one of the front sensors. Continuity testing didn't tell me anything, as I don't get any continuity through any pair of the three... I thought VR sensors were basically a wire wrapped around a magnet, and Hall sensors were wires connected through a magnet, but I guess it's not that simple. At least not with these.

FWIW, the sensor was pretty filthy with brake dust. I wonder if that's the reason I was getting strange issues and it's not the wiring? Even still, I'd like to be able to verify I have it wired up right.

Other ideas for testing while I have it out?

[hoveringuy]

You WILL read a resistance on the VR sensor, but it may be in the kilo or mega ohm range. It will not have straight continuity.

The Hall sensor is an integrated circuit and it will read as an open circuit.

[xer0trigger]

Ok, I get about 1.1kOhm between the black and brown leads. Nothing between the others.

(If it's as simple as black to black & brown to brown, I'm gonna kick myself. And Clay. And whoever told Clay it was different.)

[HellzMindPlaya]

If you still haven't figured this out by something this weekend I will pull a wheel off and remove the electrical tape I have over the splice where I spliced the two wires and just look at the colors... I have just not got around to it because I have been working late lately, busy doing other shit, and we have had a high of about 32 in the last few days. I am looking at the manuals (ETMs) right now, but they seem to be really bad at giving colors.

[xer0trigger]

... I am looking at the manuals (ETMs) right now, but they seem to be really bad at giving colors.

You ain't lying about that. A few posts back E30FTW said the earlier sensors are the same color wires as the E30 ones. I don't doubt that for a second, I just wanted to see if I could get the M3 ones working, since I already have them.

The only reason I wired them yellow to brown and black to black is because that's what was mentioned in Clay's 5-lug swap thread, which is what someone else told him he should do.

It would make too much sense if the same color wires worked on the M3 sensors as well, and the yellow is in fact the one left disconnected. I just hadn't gotten back in there to rewire it for testing, and since the jackets are such a pain to get into for splicing, I figured I'd just do some voltmeter testing first.

I should have them wired up this other way in the next day or two, and I'll report back as to how it acts.

[hoveringuy]

Fortunately, I have my M3 struts sitting in the garage so I pulled them into the house, installed the the M3 ABS sensor and fired-up the O-sillyscope.

Brown is ground.

With the probe on yellow I got a little bit of AC waveform but it was alternating and would come and go. It looked more like it was trying to produce a voltage.

With the probe on black a got perfect sinusoidal output characteristic of VR senders. Amplitude went up perfectly with increasing speed.

Resistance between black and brown, 1k Ohm. All others were open circuit.

[clavinZERO]

Thanks for really getting involved in this guys. This work you are doing is really good for tbe community. I will definitely stay subscribed here. I know for some of us this lingo is a bit technical... Can we be sure to provide the "cliff notes" solution when found?? Thank you all again.

Are we confirmed at all that front and rear tooth count dont have to match??

[daniel]

Can we be sure to provide the "cliff notes" solution when found?? Thank you all again.

lol yes please.

[xer0trigger]

With the probe on black a got perfect sinusoidal output characteristic of VR senders. Amplitude went up perfectly with increasing speed.

Resistance between black and brown, 1k Ohm. All others were open circuit.

Yeah, that's what I figured. The resistance is about what I got between black and brown leads (1.1kOhm) when I tested this afternoon.

Are we confirmed at all that front and rear tooth count dont have to match??

I can't confirm it personally, but I've read several places that they are the same tooth count, or that it doesn't even matter.

I've pulled both sides and will be wiring them up again tomorrow. I'll take her for a spin and make sure to slam on the brakes a bunch to test the ABS function (if the light isn't lit).

I hate to admit it, but I think way too much brainpower went into this when it is probably just a color match. But at least all the testing is a good piece of mind. Thanks everyone who has contributed!

I'll post back tomorrow with my results.

[E30FTW]

:)

[HellzMindPlaya]

I can almost confirm that the front and back tooth count don't have to match. I have e36 M3 front stuff, and stock sensor stuff (2.8L Z3 stuff) out back and ABS works as it should. I just haven't taken everything apart to count the teeth on them. Sounds like they have a different teeth count from what others say though.

[xer0trigger]

Well, whether they are the same, or different and it doesn't matter, that's good enough for me. =)

[hoveringuy]

It's an ABS computer... I'm sure it's smart enough to figure those things out.

What if someone had really large tires on the rear? Underinflated fronts? Why doesn't the ABS freak-out when you take it on the chassis dyno. The front tires aren't moving at all.