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Old 05-30-2019, 04:18 PM   #1
majdomo
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Schmutz on new valve cover gasket

Hey y’all - replacing the valve cover gasket in a bit, ordered one up and it came new in box with some weird white mold-like stuff on it. The spark plug bore gaskets are fine but sealed in a plastic bag. The rubber seems fine, good and flexible, and it looks like it wipes off, should I send back for a replacement or just clean it up and install?

Tbh it looks like what messes up your Cuban cigars when your humidor is over-humidified. For the stogie fans in the room.

Not at home at the moment for pix but will post some when I get a minute.


Ezekiel 25:17
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Old 05-30-2019, 04:23 PM   #2
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Wipe off and install.

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Old 05-30-2019, 04:49 PM   #3
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Wipe off and install.

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Figured but also wanted to tap the wisdom of the R3v. Off to get some rtv.


Ezekiel 25:17
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Old 05-30-2019, 06:30 PM   #4
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It's a mold release agent, you can just leave it on there.
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Old 05-31-2019, 06:56 AM   #5
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It's a mold release agent, you can just leave it on there.

Ohhhh. I guess never figured I’d get a moldy gasket.


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Old 05-31-2019, 09:11 AM   #6
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Ohhhh. I guess never figured I’d get a moldy gasket.


Ezekiel 25:17




Ezekiel 25:17
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Old 05-31-2019, 12:57 PM   #7
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Ohhhh. I guess never figured I’d get a moldy gasket.


Ezekiel 25:17
Sounds like a new one for urban dictionary.
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Old 06-01-2019, 09:37 PM   #8
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Figured but also wanted to tap the wisdom of the R3v. Off to get some rtv.


Ezekiel 25:17
I've never had any leaks with the VC gasket dry, the clamp force seems to be more than enough, even at the joint of the head/upper timing case. As I'm sure you know, use a torque wrench, the head strips really easy.
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Old 06-01-2019, 10:21 PM   #9
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Schmutz on new valve cover gasket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloff View Post
I've never had any leaks with the VC gasket dry, the clamp force seems to be more than enough, even at the joint of the head/upper timing case. As I'm sure you know, use a torque wrench, the head strips really easy.

Yep, torque wrench to 10nm only. There’s one in the timing case (center outer bolt) that is a little more spinny than I like but the rest are fine.


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Last edited by majdomo; 06-01-2019 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 06-01-2019, 11:58 PM   #10
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Yep, torque wrench to 10nm only. There’s one in the timing case (center outer bolt) that is a little more spinny than I like but the rest are fine.


Ezekiel 25:17
If you do put an insert, I highly recommend timeserts instead of helicoils, I had to replace four in my M42, and while drilling into the head is a bit nerve racking, it's a much better solution than helicoils.
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:03 AM   #11
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If you do put an insert, I highly recommend timeserts instead of helicoils, I had to replace four in my M42, and while drilling into the head is a bit nerve racking, it's a much better solution than helicoils.


Got it. Going to see how it goes next few weeks...if it leaks will get the timesert going. No idea why this stripped, had zero issues coming out and was stupid slow / careful going back in.


Ezekiel 25:17
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Old 06-02-2019, 06:31 PM   #12
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Got it. Going to see how it goes next few weeks...if it leaks will get the timesert going. No idea why this stripped, had zero issues coming out and was stupid slow / careful going back in.


Ezekiel 25:17
They strip if you sneeze. Soft aluminum with steel bolts.
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Old 06-02-2019, 06:37 PM   #13
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I've never had issues with these bolts. I always use a short handle 1/4 in rachet for this reason. Hard to generate a lot of torque with said rachet.

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Old 06-02-2019, 07:02 PM   #14
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I've never had issues with these bolts.
Concur, I do try to remove them only when the engine is cold just to limit the failure potential. When the spec calls for inch pounds you shouldn't even need to use the handle of the ratchet, but rather just the head, and if you feel you can't get it tight enough that way you have crud in the threads.
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Old 06-02-2019, 07:13 PM   #15
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Concur, I do try to remove them only when the engine is cold just to limit the failure potential. When the spec calls for inch pounds you shouldn't even need to use the handle of the ratchet, but rather just the head, and if you feel you can't get it tight enough that way you have crud in the threads.

Agree. Did the work with the engine cold from overnight. I noticed some thread junk when the bolts came out, was hoping it wasn’t anything serious. I was able to torque the other bolts down fine, there were two which went down most of the way and then just didn’t go any further, but weren’t quite tight enough. I threaded them all by hand until I couldn’t turn with finger pressure, then very gently torqued to spec. Sort of unfortunately, it was the one in the upper right corner, near the manifold in the upper timing case, and the one in the middle of the timing case. However there’s some rtv on the corner and the middle bolt looks ok.

Last person on the cover was my mechanic when he replaced the head in August 2017, so....at least the head’s not fucked.

Anyway. Seems fine for now but just a bummer.


Ezekiel 25:17
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