I'm assuming you checked/replaced the fuel pump?
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89 325ix starts then dies
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Originally posted by Gonzo19 View PostIn this case might as well check your fuel pump relay too. Also it wouldn't hurt to check your main relay. Both are fairly inexpensive.
how long does the car "run" when it starts and then dies? an ECU running an M20 without an AFM attached will fire up for several seconds, go up to like 2500RPM and then die. an M20 being started without an ECU attached or with a fried ECU at all will sound like it's trying to fire, but won't actually "run" at all.
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Originally posted by kronus View Postif the starter is operating, the main relay is working.
how long does the car "run" when it starts and then dies? an ECU running an M20 without an AFM attached will fire up for several seconds, go up to like 2500RPM and then die. an M20 being started without an ECU attached or with a fried ECU at all will sound like it's trying to fire, but won't actually "run" at all.
With everything plugged in the car tries to start like its SO close then just shuts right off. It doesnt actually run for any length of time. So the last part with my ECU plugged in it will try to start (I have spark on all 6 cyclinders and 40-45 lbs of fuel pressure while cranking)
Will I damage anything but unplugging the ECU and trying to start it to see if anything changes?
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Originally posted by kronus View Postnope, it won't hurt anything
I just pulled the big black connector from the DME and tried to start it and all it does is crank.
Also I might add while putting everything back together I was trying to add coolant. I filled it up as much as I could until it wouldnt take anymore but it never did come out of the bleeder screw....this wouldn't have anything to do with it, would it? I know there is coolant going to the back of ther thermostat housing where the engine temp and coolant temp sensor are.Last edited by RWD BLOWS; 12-04-2018, 04:25 PM.
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interesting. starting to run out of options.
in addition to fuel pressure, it is worth testing to see if your injectors are opening at all. couple ways:
- get a noid light and plug one of the injectors into it, crank, look for blinky
- pull the rail, put cups under all the injectors, crank, look for gas
- just crank it a fuckton and smell the plugs for gasoline smell
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Well, i will say this all the injectors are new. I replaced them about 300-500 miles before tearing everything down. The ignition system is new and so is the fuel system minus the fuel pressure regulator but the fuel pressure tests basicslly confirms the FPR is working properly. If i try to start it a fukton it will start to smell like gas. Also just for shits and gigs i took the connector off for the TPS and i was getting 12v from pins 1 to 2 and pins 3 to 2 with the ignition on.
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Test your temp sensor for proper ohms given cold or hot coolant temps. If it tests properly then you need to be sure that the signal is getting through to the ECU via the fuel injector harness round plug under the throttle body. I have seen a few of these pins be so rusted and corroded that there is no longer continuity in the connection. The car will never start on a cold day without that sensor info getting to the ecu.The difference between porcupines and BMWs is that porcupines have the pricks on the outside!
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Originally posted by wodcutr View PostTest your temp sensor for proper ohms given cold or hot coolant temps. If it tests properly then you need to be sure that the signal is getting through to the ECU via the fuel injector harness round plug under the throttle body. I have seen a few of these pins be so rusted and corroded that there is no longer continuity in the connection. The car will never start on a cold day without that sensor info getting to the ecu.
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